Who has had a successful resolution to the oil burning issue or ticking issue
12-21-2011, 05:11 AM
#81
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My 2008 had a noticeable start-up tick noise from the valve lifters when I purchased it used. The oil consumption may have been slightly high too, but since the oil was changed after only about 300 miles post purchase, and the decrease was small, I'm not confident of the accuracy of reading the dipstick.
0w30 synthetic is my preference over the OEM 5w20 recommendation, and that's what I changed it to. The engine was flushed with a detergent flush (amsoil) for about 15 minutes idling just before the oil/filter change. I also used one of amsoil's rather expensive oil filters that should have a quality back-flow valve -- The leaking of which is a likely cause of start-up lifter noise. The flush was cheap insurance, presumably it helps to get any gunk loosened up (around piston rings, valve lifters, etc) and into the oil filter that's getting thrown away.
Afterward, no more start-up lifter ticking. Oil consumption is undetectable after 1500 miles.
0w30 synthetic is my preference over the OEM 5w20 recommendation, and that's what I changed it to. The engine was flushed with a detergent flush (amsoil) for about 15 minutes idling just before the oil/filter change. I also used one of amsoil's rather expensive oil filters that should have a quality back-flow valve -- The leaking of which is a likely cause of start-up lifter noise. The flush was cheap insurance, presumably it helps to get any gunk loosened up (around piston rings, valve lifters, etc) and into the oil filter that's getting thrown away.
Afterward, no more start-up lifter ticking. Oil consumption is undetectable after 1500 miles.
12-21-2011, 09:06 AM
#82
JK Enthusiast
I know you guys don't want stories.
Had my dealer change my oil at 15K. I checked the level at 16K and showed a quart+ low (that means 2 quarts gone, right?).
They claimed it was only low .75 quarts as they never fill them all the way up. Checked it at home, it was topped off.
At 18K it was again a quart+ low (burned 2 quarts again).
They had no record of it being checked the first time ( had the receipt on me), just a change at 15K. They didn't change their records to reflect what I proved to them.
Take pictures w/date stamp, keep all records and verify accuracy.
Had the 2012 oil changed at 2475 miles, the guy wrote it up as 7240 or something, said "sign here", I said "um, no Mr dyslectic".
I wanted a hard top and auto so I traded it in. If not I would have gone w/10-30 and pvc swap. If that didn't work I'da bought another motor for a couple grand, didn't consider $2K a big deal seeing folks pissing away 2 or 4X that on stuff that won't make the vehicle worth another penny. Good jeeps with good motors have good resale (actually the crappy ones do pretty good too - ask me how I know).
Had my dealer change my oil at 15K. I checked the level at 16K and showed a quart+ low (that means 2 quarts gone, right?).
They claimed it was only low .75 quarts as they never fill them all the way up. Checked it at home, it was topped off.
At 18K it was again a quart+ low (burned 2 quarts again).
They had no record of it being checked the first time ( had the receipt on me), just a change at 15K. They didn't change their records to reflect what I proved to them.
Take pictures w/date stamp, keep all records and verify accuracy.
Had the 2012 oil changed at 2475 miles, the guy wrote it up as 7240 or something, said "sign here", I said "um, no Mr dyslectic".
I wanted a hard top and auto so I traded it in. If not I would have gone w/10-30 and pvc swap. If that didn't work I'da bought another motor for a couple grand, didn't consider $2K a big deal seeing folks pissing away 2 or 4X that on stuff that won't make the vehicle worth another penny. Good jeeps with good motors have good resale (actually the crappy ones do pretty good too - ask me how I know).
Last edited by 03fatboy; 12-21-2011 at 09:12 AM.
12-21-2011, 10:53 AM
#83
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The 40K mile mark for oil consumption is interesting to me.
I have a 2007 JKU, 4/07 build date. Bought new in Southern California, saw cold temperatures only a few times in it's life, and I'm sure the dealer used the recommended 5w20/30. The original owner (my friend) was not religious about checking the oil, but he suspects it started burning it later on, until one of the rod bearings finally went at 48K. I ended up with the Jeep and as many stated here- a motor swap is not a hard option (these JK's appear to be designed from the factory to have their motors R&R'ed... take that for what it's worth) and for how inexpensive I sourced a low mile (7K) engine, if I have to R&R a motor every 50K, it won't be the end of the world. The engine came from a 11/06 build JK and had extremely low miles. I run 5w20 in it currently due to the fact it's suffering through a Colorado Winter, but I have no noticeable oil consumption issues, and no tick.
I would be happy to snap photos of the block & head should people want to see what the inside of a dealer maintained engine looks like at 48K with a bad rod bearing....
I have a 2007 JKU, 4/07 build date. Bought new in Southern California, saw cold temperatures only a few times in it's life, and I'm sure the dealer used the recommended 5w20/30. The original owner (my friend) was not religious about checking the oil, but he suspects it started burning it later on, until one of the rod bearings finally went at 48K. I ended up with the Jeep and as many stated here- a motor swap is not a hard option (these JK's appear to be designed from the factory to have their motors R&R'ed... take that for what it's worth) and for how inexpensive I sourced a low mile (7K) engine, if I have to R&R a motor every 50K, it won't be the end of the world. The engine came from a 11/06 build JK and had extremely low miles. I run 5w20 in it currently due to the fact it's suffering through a Colorado Winter, but I have no noticeable oil consumption issues, and no tick.
I would be happy to snap photos of the block & head should people want to see what the inside of a dealer maintained engine looks like at 48K with a bad rod bearing....
12-21-2011, 11:15 AM
#84
JK Super Freak
Lifter tick isn't always linked to oil consumption or dry starts. One of the guys in my Jeep club had very loud and constant tapping coming from his lifters (only had about 5K miles on the motor, MY'08) & had it rectified under warranty. Apparantly there's a TSB out for it, & it concerns faulty (or incorrect sized) bolts/fastners on the rockers. They replaced all the rocker arms & bolts & it's never ticked since, & has something around 50K miles on the clock now.
Apparantly the problem is more common than people know according to the dealer, with ticking lifters usually blamed on the oiling system instead. I'm unsure if the design of the rockers & bolts was changed to rectify this issue or if it was simply down to a bad batch of parts or incorrect assembly at the factory.
Apparantly the problem is more common than people know according to the dealer, with ticking lifters usually blamed on the oiling system instead. I'm unsure if the design of the rockers & bolts was changed to rectify this issue or if it was simply down to a bad batch of parts or incorrect assembly at the factory.
12-21-2011, 08:56 PM
#85
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Lifter tick isn't always linked to oil consumption or dry starts. One of the guys in my Jeep club had very loud and constant tapping coming from his lifters (only had about 5K miles on the motor, MY'08) & had it rectified under warranty. Apparantly there's a TSB out for it, & it concerns faulty (or incorrect sized) bolts/fastners on the rockers. They replaced all the rocker arms & bolts & it's never ticked since, & has something around 50K miles on the clock now.
Apparantly the problem is more common than people know according to the dealer, with ticking lifters usually blamed on the oiling system instead. I'm unsure if the design of the rockers & bolts was changed to rectify this issue or if it was simply down to a bad batch of parts or incorrect assembly at the factory.
Apparantly the problem is more common than people know according to the dealer, with ticking lifters usually blamed on the oiling system instead. I'm unsure if the design of the rockers & bolts was changed to rectify this issue or if it was simply down to a bad batch of parts or incorrect assembly at the factory.
12-22-2011, 05:00 PM
#86
JK Super Freak
I won't be seeing the guy who had it done until the next club meet in the New Year, however I'll scour my local Jeep forum when I get a chance as I'm pretty sure it was mentioned there too. Now I think of it I specifically remember seeing the printout on that forum of the TSB for the proceedure to replace the rocker arm assembly to rectify the issue including torque specs, etc. I'll see what I can find...
12-22-2011, 09:07 PM
#87
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I won't be seeing the guy who had it done until the next club meet in the New Year, however I'll scour my local Jeep forum when I get a chance as I'm pretty sure it was mentioned there too. Now I think of it I specifically remember seeing the printout on that forum of the TSB for the proceedure to replace the rocker arm assembly to rectify the issue including torque specs, etc. I'll see what I can find...
01-06-2012, 05:15 AM
#88
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Just out of curiosity, I have the lifetime warranty, will the dealerships warranty our JK's if the "wrong oil" is in the engine? They could blame the oil to be the cause of engine failure and it would be documented by our receipts to prove we performed proper interval oil changes!!
01-06-2012, 05:33 AM
#89
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Originally Posted by dsvictorious
Just out of curiosity, I have the lifetime warranty, will the dealerships warranty our JK's if the "wrong oil" is in the engine? They could blame the oil to be the cause of engine failure and it would be documented by our receipts to prove we performed proper interval oil changes!!
01-06-2012, 04:09 PM
#90
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It's official-
My 08 3.8-powered Town & Country that has 40k miles on it and burned 5qts of oil in 2k miles is getting a new engine.
Apparently that's what it takes.
My 08 3.8-powered Town & Country that has 40k miles on it and burned 5qts of oil in 2k miles is getting a new engine.
Apparently that's what it takes.