Who has had a successful resolution to the oil burning issue or ticking issue
12-07-2011, 12:53 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by dkclimber
It just stopped. My guess is the engine internals finally "gummed" up enough to stop the oil burn. It was strange and at first I though something major was wrong. But, at each oil change (every 3500) I pull out almost the full 6qt 's that i put in from the last time. I would say it's burning less than a 1/2 qt between oil changes now.
I have been using the 5w-20 from Mobile 1 since 30,000 miles.
12-07-2011, 01:00 PM
#32
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I have to knock on wood, the only thing to go wrong on my Jeep in 95,000 miles is this excessive oil burn when it was younger. I had no idea that it was a problem until my dealer told me at my 3rd or 4th oil change that they only pulled out 2-3 qts. I freaked and assumed I had already done too much damage to my engine. But, 95k miles later it's still running great!
12-07-2011, 04:53 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by dkclimber
I did not have that experience.
I have to knock on wood, the only thing to go wrong on my Jeep in 95,000 miles is this excessive oil burn when it was younger. I had no idea that it was a problem until my dealer told me at my 3rd or 4th oil change that they only pulled out 2-3 qts. I freaked and assumed I had already done too much damage to my engine. But, 95k miles later it's still running great!
12-08-2011, 11:54 AM
#34
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Changing my oil today I did some research and I have been using Valvoline Syn which as a Noack score of 10. I am going with Amsoil which has a 5 which is significantly less than the popular Synthetics. This should help me determine is it burning off or am I losing it somewhere.
Noack Volatility Test
The NOACK Volatility Test is one that is becoming more common on motor oil tech sheets, but still is not always provided. However, in my opinion, it is one of the most important technical specifications you can look at to determine the quality of an oil.
The NOACK test exposes an oil to a high temperature environment of 250 degrees C (almost 500 degrees F) for one hour. Other standardized environmental conditions are also set to make sure that the test is always performed in the same manner. The test is designed to determine the amount of evaporation that will occur over the course of this one hour time period.
The final score is listed as a percentage of weight loss by the end of the test and less weight loss is better. Thus, a lower NOACK score is better.
Noack Volatility Test
The NOACK Volatility Test is one that is becoming more common on motor oil tech sheets, but still is not always provided. However, in my opinion, it is one of the most important technical specifications you can look at to determine the quality of an oil.
The NOACK test exposes an oil to a high temperature environment of 250 degrees C (almost 500 degrees F) for one hour. Other standardized environmental conditions are also set to make sure that the test is always performed in the same manner. The test is designed to determine the amount of evaporation that will occur over the course of this one hour time period.
The final score is listed as a percentage of weight loss by the end of the test and less weight loss is better. Thus, a lower NOACK score is better.
12-08-2011, 12:17 PM
#35
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I now very rarely add oil in between changes and it's running strong with just over 95k.My jeep stopped burning oil around 80K, it use to use ~1 – 1.5 quarts between filter changes. Still ticks at startup. I run Mobil 5W20 extended, change the filter every 5K and oil every 15K.
12-08-2011, 02:09 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by Stepsride
Changing my oil today I did some research and I have been using Valvoline Syn which as a Noack score of 10. I am going with Amsoil which has a 5 which is significantly less than the popular Synthetics. This should help me determine is it burning off or am I losing it somewhere.
Noack Volatility Test
The NOACK Volatility Test is one that is becoming more common on motor oil tech sheets, but still is not always provided. However, in my opinion, it is one of the most important technical specifications you can look at to determine the quality of an oil.
The NOACK test exposes an oil to a high temperature environment of 250 degrees C (almost 500 degrees F) for one hour. Other standardized environmental conditions are also set to make sure that the test is always performed in the same manner. The test is designed to determine the amount of evaporation that will occur over the course of this one hour time period.
The final score is listed as a percentage of weight loss by the end of the test and less weight loss is better. Thus, a lower NOACK score is better.
Noack Volatility Test
The NOACK Volatility Test is one that is becoming more common on motor oil tech sheets, but still is not always provided. However, in my opinion, it is one of the most important technical specifications you can look at to determine the quality of an oil.
The NOACK test exposes an oil to a high temperature environment of 250 degrees C (almost 500 degrees F) for one hour. Other standardized environmental conditions are also set to make sure that the test is always performed in the same manner. The test is designed to determine the amount of evaporation that will occur over the course of this one hour time period.
The final score is listed as a percentage of weight loss by the end of the test and less weight loss is better. Thus, a lower NOACK score is better.
12-08-2011, 04:16 PM
#37
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There is a website dedicated to OIL. It is a bit excessive but if you want to know... it will tell you. It is called the Motor Oil Evaluator. http://themotoroilevaluator.com I am going to give synthetic one last try before I go back to my old Penzoil standby. I am going to run 10w30. Living in Florida the 10W is fine however in areas where it gets below 40 degrees I would stick with the 5W 30 or 20.
12-08-2011, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Stepsride
There is a website dedicated to OIL. It is a bit excessive but if you want to know... it will tell you. It is called the Motor Oil Evaluator. http://themotoroilevaluator.com I am going to give synthetic one last try before I go back to my old Penzoil standby. I am going to run 10w30. Living in Florida the 10W is fine however in areas where it gets below 40 degrees I would stick with the 5W 30 or 20.
12-08-2011, 06:14 PM
#39
When my JK was new I had a startup rod knock once, thinking it was a bad drainback valve in the mopar filter I asked the dealer to change it out, dealer said no but added the startup knock issue to my JK history.
Left the dealer and went and bought a can of seafoam, and poured half the can in the crankcase, I only did this once, since then I have had not one problem with oil of any kind, never burn oil or startup knock and no valve train ticking.
I bought a maintance program with the JK and I let the dealer do all the maintance to it,
One time the little sticker they put on the winshield said 5/30 wt, but most of the time it say's 5/20 wt
My JK is stock and a 2008, with the lifetime warranty, and driving it sane, so the lifetime warranty if anything happens it's on chrysler and the dealer !
Now I have herd that some of the south of the boarder 3.8 had their rings installed upside down, top comp ring with bevel down same with the second comp ring which will cause oil to burn, making the cats having to burn most of it off, until they plug which will cause excessive chamber heat, I think there is a recall on those, but can't remember good luck on your finding's
Left the dealer and went and bought a can of seafoam, and poured half the can in the crankcase, I only did this once, since then I have had not one problem with oil of any kind, never burn oil or startup knock and no valve train ticking.
I bought a maintance program with the JK and I let the dealer do all the maintance to it,
One time the little sticker they put on the winshield said 5/30 wt, but most of the time it say's 5/20 wt
My JK is stock and a 2008, with the lifetime warranty, and driving it sane, so the lifetime warranty if anything happens it's on chrysler and the dealer !
Now I have herd that some of the south of the boarder 3.8 had their rings installed upside down, top comp ring with bevel down same with the second comp ring which will cause oil to burn, making the cats having to burn most of it off, until they plug which will cause excessive chamber heat, I think there is a recall on those, but can't remember good luck on your finding's
Last edited by 33 williys 77; 12-08-2011 at 09:23 PM.
12-08-2011, 11:33 PM
#40
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Fixed engine knock but oil consumption is very high. Been running mobile 1 synthetic for the last 30k miles, tried 3 or 4 different filters. Mobiles work the best. Knock disappeared. Stay away from the mopar filters.
The oil consumption is a problem. Burn about 3 quarts every 3k oil change using mobile 1 5w20 synthetic oil. Motor still runs fantastic at 50k miles, and i drive the engine hard. Will make the switch to 5w30 soon to test difference.
The oil consumption is a problem. Burn about 3 quarts every 3k oil change using mobile 1 5w20 synthetic oil. Motor still runs fantastic at 50k miles, and i drive the engine hard. Will make the switch to 5w30 soon to test difference.