Wet Driver side Floor, ANY SUGGESTIONS?
04-22-2011, 05:11 AM
#21
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Just had the jeep into the stealership for the driver's side door replacement of weatrherstripping. They said...not a very common thing but we replaced it anyway. Funny, the new stripping is COMPLETELY different looking than the passenger side. It is larger, has more ribbing on it, etc. Anyway...my passenger side might suddenly start leaking also...lol! 
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
04-22-2011, 08:50 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Bonedoc
Just had the jeep into the stealership for the driver's side door replacement of weatrherstripping. They said...not a very common thing but we replaced it anyway. Funny, the new stripping is COMPLETELY different looking than the passenger side. It is larger, has more ribbing on it, etc. Anyway...my passenger side might suddenly start leaking also...lol!
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
Last edited by CreepyJeeper; 04-22-2011 at 08:53 AM.
04-22-2011, 09:37 AM
#23
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i had a few leaks at the soft top on my 09 JKU right above the b-pillars where the soft top tucks into the grooves. extra attention when putting the top back up is now required. when the jeep was new i also had issues with the door weather stripping sticking to the top of the door on the body side and pulling the weather stripping out of its channel. extra attention here as well now and i also make sure that when i wash my truck i wipe all of the weather stripping and door jams clean and dry.
Just had the jeep into the stealership for the driver's side door replacement of weatrherstripping. They said...not a very common thing but we replaced it anyway. Funny, the new stripping is COMPLETELY different looking than the passenger side. It is larger, has more ribbing on it, etc. Anyway...my passenger side might suddenly start leaking also...lol!
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
So far the floor has been dry, will keep you all posted!
If under warranty I would most def take it to the dealer and have them check it. I had mentioned while at the dealer that if I was near home I would just fix it myself, he said don't ever do that if it's under warranty, that's what the dealer is for.
04-22-2011, 11:40 AM
#24
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I tried everything to fix it and it's no longer under warranty....I just picked up a new drivers side door seal and installed it today.......door is a lot harder to close now and it appears to be better quality and new improvements. Hopefully this solves the problem....I will let you know how it worked next time it rains....I was getting a leak from the "A" pillar and at the bottom of the door
Door seal cost me $85
and that's with a discount!
Door seal cost me $85
and that's with a discount!
04-23-2011, 04:58 AM
#25
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The seals on the 2011s are pretty beefy. The owners manual has a big notice in the front about the doors "possibly" needing extra force to close.
If you are still under warranty it may not be a bad idea to take it in and have them "upgrade" to the new seals.
If you are still under warranty it may not be a bad idea to take it in and have them "upgrade" to the new seals.
05-17-2011, 06:09 AM
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If you're not under warranty like I am, I searched the web high and far. I finally came across another wrangler lovers forum that had a simple fix that has since worked for me. NAPA auto parts sells a 4 oz bottle for $4 and change of whats called sil-glyde. It's made to improve the weather stripping on vehicles, it says it right on the bottle. I simply dabbed a little on a paper towel and coated every seal along the hard top and around those rubber pieces where the front of the hard top meets the door. What the goo does is seal up those really small holes and fills the space with a water resistant compound. There is also Dow Corning 111 that will actually swell the weather stripping which is also worth a shot. You have to be careful with adding things like this to the weather stripping because some products will actually deteriorate the rubber over time like vaseline. It only took about 10 minutes to apply, and was fairly easy especially since the dealership quoted me at $941.33 to replace all the weather stripping and seals. Good luck and if anyone else would like pictures or advice on the steps I used don't hesitate to PM me.
05-17-2011, 08:28 AM
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I might just try to flatten out my weatherstrips with a flat piece of wood and a heat gun. I also heard that you can bend the top of the door inward a bit with a 2x4 through the window. I've been leaking almost since day 1, and am 
and freaking 
of this substandard design. I drove a Triumph Spitfire while in Europe and the only thing that leaked were the carburetor fuel bowls and the left rear tire.
and freaking of this substandard design. I drove a Triumph Spitfire while in Europe and the only thing that leaked were the carburetor fuel bowls and the left rear tire.
05-17-2011, 06:20 PM
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Lol I also went to advanced auto parts and bought some of their all purpose weather strips and stuck that behind the existing weather seal to make it thicker
Last edited by msalvas; 06-13-2011 at 09:14 PM.
09-09-2011, 11:56 AM
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Hey everyone, I know this topic hasn't been replied to in quite some time but I thought I would let everyone know what I have done since I bought my leaky wrangler JKU. After getting so pissed about the water starting to leak in with the plethora of hurricanes and wet weather we've had on the east coast I finally ponied up and just bought some new seals. www.4WD.com has everything for the doors but unfortunately you have to do some searching for the hard top and windshield seals. The new door seals are much beefier and the door pops open because of how thick they are. I would imagine that this will do the trick. I installed these seals today and since the sun is out now and we are supposed to get some more thunder storms over the next few days I'll make sure and update you on how it goes. The stealership was going to charge me almost $1000 to replace the door seals as well as the hard top seals. I wouldn't imagine that the windshield and hard top seals are that hard to replace. Good luck, and hope this helps anyone with this issue.
10-19-2011, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jkchr1s
I had this same problem and had it in the shop on numerous occasions because of it.
First they said it was a header seal (the seal that runs across the windshield on the top). Replaced that with the newly designed one and got less water.
Next they added new pieces of rubber up around the plastic pieces at the top. This didn't make much of a difference for me.
What finally fixed it for me was readjusting the door. The dealership made it so that the door closed really tight... so tight that the door literally springs open when you press the handle. This fixed it because the seal around the door isn't firm/tight enough and the water just leaks in and goes in under the plastic piece at the bottom of the door.
From what I can tell, they just loosened the bolts where the door hinge bolts on and scooted the hinge towards the inside of the Jeep. I don't think they did any drilling but I can't say for sure because once it was fixed, I didn't want to touch it. Absolutely nothing else worked for me, and if I don't close my door hard enough now it still leaks in the floorboard.
I've also heard a success story with slicing the door seal open below the top where the header seal drains, insert a few small rubber vacuum hoses in there to add some resistance, and silicon everything back closed. This puts pressure up against the frame when you shut the door and stops the water from soaking your floorboard.
Either way it's harder to close the door, but it's nice not to have to take the carpet out and hang it up every time you run into some rain.
Good luck!
First they said it was a header seal (the seal that runs across the windshield on the top). Replaced that with the newly designed one and got less water.
Next they added new pieces of rubber up around the plastic pieces at the top. This didn't make much of a difference for me.
What finally fixed it for me was readjusting the door. The dealership made it so that the door closed really tight... so tight that the door literally springs open when you press the handle. This fixed it because the seal around the door isn't firm/tight enough and the water just leaks in and goes in under the plastic piece at the bottom of the door.
From what I can tell, they just loosened the bolts where the door hinge bolts on and scooted the hinge towards the inside of the Jeep. I don't think they did any drilling but I can't say for sure because once it was fixed, I didn't want to touch it. Absolutely nothing else worked for me, and if I don't close my door hard enough now it still leaks in the floorboard.
I've also heard a success story with slicing the door seal open below the top where the header seal drains, insert a few small rubber vacuum hoses in there to add some resistance, and silicon everything back closed. This puts pressure up against the frame when you shut the door and stops the water from soaking your floorboard.
Either way it's harder to close the door, but it's nice not to have to take the carpet out and hang it up every time you run into some rain.
Good luck!