Water gurgling noise from dash. Sounds like JKU is about to have explosive diarrhea!
#51
my issue was when the head got replaced on my 12 is when mine acted up dealer bled it twice & it was still there so I figured give it a bit to resolve itself( 4 months ) well just took it back in & come to find out the radiator cap was bad even sucked in the hoses, replaced the cap problem solved 33,000 miles
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Mtbjeeper67 (04-04-2021)
#52
Just try to remember in a couple of years when you have the system flushed the noise will most likely come back for a while. I never had the noise in my 2012, but I normally have Power Metal cranked up. That way I don't normally hear the shifter rattle in second, and third gear.
I just hope the coolant change did not move crap around and clogged my heater core even if it work properly.
#53
Gurgling sound just started in my 2012 at 9k miles.
Heater stopped blowing hot at the same time. Of course quit on me up in the mountains while it's 14 degrees out.
I was climbing up and over steep gravel piles in a rock pit when heat stopped. Wonder if I dislodged something or got air trapped in the HC somehow?
Luke warm air on passenger side, cool on drivers side. No floor heat whatsoever.
Pulled the glove box and I can grab the metal heater core lines with my bare hands with hot engine so something isn't right.
Re-circulation box and flappers all seem to be working properly.
Going in to dealer tomorrow for diagnosis.
Heater stopped blowing hot at the same time. Of course quit on me up in the mountains while it's 14 degrees out.
I was climbing up and over steep gravel piles in a rock pit when heat stopped. Wonder if I dislodged something or got air trapped in the HC somehow?
Luke warm air on passenger side, cool on drivers side. No floor heat whatsoever.
Pulled the glove box and I can grab the metal heater core lines with my bare hands with hot engine so something isn't right.
Re-circulation box and flappers all seem to be working properly.
Going in to dealer tomorrow for diagnosis.
#54
Just heard the gurgling noise myself this morning on my 07 with 75K miles. After reading this post I checked the Overflow tank and found in bone dry, I topped off the reservoir and will see how it sounds in the morning. No warranty left on mine, hopefully this is an easy fix.
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
#55
Sorry to revive such an old thread
My 12 jk with 40k miles has this water rushing sound in the dash. So I bled the system myself. It still has the sound after the bleed. What ended up being the fix for all you guys? If you can remember that far back.
#56
If there's a gurgling sound still there, it means there's still air in the system. How did you bleed the system?
The best way to do it, is to put a jack under the passenger side of the axle and then raise the passenger side up so the radiator cap is the highest point of the system. Air always travels to the highest point. With radiator opening raised, and cap off let the engine run, and while running squeeze the top radiator hose to assist in forcing out any trapped air, then continue to fill until you notice no air bubbles coming out of open radiator. Also make sure the overflow reservoir is filled to the max level line.
The JK also has a self burping system. So after filling and burping as described, drive, and then come back in a couple days and check the level of the coolant and top off. Do that for at least a week until you make sure there's no more room to fill for a few days straight.
If after doing all that, and you still hear the sound, it means you have a leak somewhere, thus letting coolant out and air into the system. Finding coolant leaks, it's best to get a pressure tester and trace down the leak that way. Most common coolant leaks are from radiator, a hose, or water pump.
The best way to do it, is to put a jack under the passenger side of the axle and then raise the passenger side up so the radiator cap is the highest point of the system. Air always travels to the highest point. With radiator opening raised, and cap off let the engine run, and while running squeeze the top radiator hose to assist in forcing out any trapped air, then continue to fill until you notice no air bubbles coming out of open radiator. Also make sure the overflow reservoir is filled to the max level line.
The JK also has a self burping system. So after filling and burping as described, drive, and then come back in a couple days and check the level of the coolant and top off. Do that for at least a week until you make sure there's no more room to fill for a few days straight.
If after doing all that, and you still hear the sound, it means you have a leak somewhere, thus letting coolant out and air into the system. Finding coolant leaks, it's best to get a pressure tester and trace down the leak that way. Most common coolant leaks are from radiator, a hose, or water pump.
Last edited by Rednroll; 04-05-2021 at 04:17 AM.
#57
If there's a gurgling sound still there, it means there's still air in the system. How did you bleed the system?
The best way to do it, is to put a jack under the passenger side of the axle and then raise the passenger side up so the radiator cap is the highest point of the system. Air always travels to the highest point. With radiator opening raised, and cap off let the engine run, and while running squeeze the top radiator hose to assist in forcing out any trapped air, then continue to fill until you notice no air bubbles coming out of open radiator. Also make sure the overflow reservoir is filled to the max level line.
The JK also has a self burping system. So after filling and burping as described, drive, and then come back in a couple days and check the level of the coolant and top off. Do that for at least a week until you make sure there's no more room to fill for a few days straight.
If after doing all that, and you still hear the sound, it means you have a leak somewhere, thus letting coolant out and air into the system. Finding coolant leaks, it's best to get a pressure tester and trace down the leak that way. Most common coolant leaks are from radiator, a hose, or water pump.
The best way to do it, is to put a jack under the passenger side of the axle and then raise the passenger side up so the radiator cap is the highest point of the system. Air always travels to the highest point. With radiator opening raised, and cap off let the engine run, and while running squeeze the top radiator hose to assist in forcing out any trapped air, then continue to fill until you notice no air bubbles coming out of open radiator. Also make sure the overflow reservoir is filled to the max level line.
The JK also has a self burping system. So after filling and burping as described, drive, and then come back in a couple days and check the level of the coolant and top off. Do that for at least a week until you make sure there's no more room to fill for a few days straight.
If after doing all that, and you still hear the sound, it means you have a leak somewhere, thus letting coolant out and air into the system. Finding coolant leaks, it's best to get a pressure tester and trace down the leak that way. Most common coolant leaks are from radiator, a hose, or water pump.
#58
yea I did exactly as you described. But used my drive way which is at a incline. There must be a leak in the system then. I was reading the above posts and sounds like even the stealerships and other had the same problem with newer jks. I wonder if it has anything to do with the heater core? Or maybe radiator cap? Cause I’ve looked everywhere under my jeep for leaks and it’s bone dry everywhere.
Ultimately, I found my radiator end cap leak by purchasing a pressure tester, where I then was able to see a small leak come from my driver's side end cap with system under pressure. Which then got me to pull the lower air dam off, and when I pulled that off and looked at it....it dawned on me. "Oh! That's where all that damn coolant has been hiding out at!"
If your leak is from the heater core, you will typically smell coolant inside the cabin. The heater core is located in the center dash area, sits behind the HVAC controls about 8inches. If you don't smell coolant inside the cabin it's typically not the HC, but you can usually lift the rubber mat on the passenger side near that center trans hump and feel the dampness on the backside padding of the rubber mat. When the HC leaks, it's typically around the welds of the elbow joint bends of the 2 pipes which connect to the core. Those pipes are on the passenger side, thus the reason to check the padding on the that side for coolant smell and dampness.
Last edited by Rednroll; 04-05-2021 at 09:14 AM.
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Mtbjeeper67 (04-05-2021)
#59
Going from my experience with the radiator end caps leaking, which has been a common failure leak. The end caps of the radiator would only leak while driving, where driving caused enough pressure in the radiator to cause the leak. What I learned is that the end caps sit right above the front end air dam, or skid plate depending on which you have. The coolant would leak and be caught by the air dam/skid plate and blow out while driving on the highway. Mine like yours looked bone dry when looking underneath for leak marks but once I pulled the air dam off, I could see residue stains where coolant had been sitting with streaks blown backwards on that hard to see top area of the air dam.
Ultimately, I found my radiator end cap leak by purchasing a pressure tester, where I then was able to see a small leak come from my driver's side end cap with system under pressure. Which then got me to pull the lower air dam off, and when I pulled that off and looked at it....it dawned on me. "Oh! That's where all that damn coolant has been hiding out at!"
If your leak is from the heater core, you will typically smell coolant inside the cabin. The heater core is located in the center dash area, sits behind the HVAC controls about 8inches. If you don't smell coolant inside the cabin it's typically not the HC, but you can usually lift the rubber mat on the passenger side near that center trans hump and feel the dampness on the backside padding of the rubber mat. When the HC leaks, it's typically around the welds of the elbow joint bends of the 2 pipes which connect to the core. Those pipes are on the passenger side, thus the reason to check the padding on the that side for coolant smell and dampness.
Ultimately, I found my radiator end cap leak by purchasing a pressure tester, where I then was able to see a small leak come from my driver's side end cap with system under pressure. Which then got me to pull the lower air dam off, and when I pulled that off and looked at it....it dawned on me. "Oh! That's where all that damn coolant has been hiding out at!"
If your leak is from the heater core, you will typically smell coolant inside the cabin. The heater core is located in the center dash area, sits behind the HVAC controls about 8inches. If you don't smell coolant inside the cabin it's typically not the HC, but you can usually lift the rubber mat on the passenger side near that center trans hump and feel the dampness on the backside padding of the rubber mat. When the HC leaks, it's typically around the welds of the elbow joint bends of the 2 pipes which connect to the core. Those pipes are on the passenger side, thus the reason to check the padding on the that side for coolant smell and dampness.
#60
Thanks for that tip! Just crawled under there and looked. Nothing to be seen on the air dam or “in” the air dam. Bone dry with no residue. Just dust. This all started when the stealership flushed my system becasue I had just bought the jeep and the coolant was dirty. So I figured it was air in the system and I bled it. It got much better but still has a bit of “water rushing through pipes” sounds that happen at least once or twice when I drive. Does the self bleed system take a certain amount of time to bleed everything out completely?
Last edited by Rednroll; 04-05-2021 at 08:42 PM.
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Mtbjeeper67 (04-05-2021)