I recently had a shop install a new Centerforce clutch to replace my OEM one that went out at 20k miles. It’s been amazing up until it seemed to lose pressure, making it difficult to shift into first and reverse and sometimes into 2/3/4. After I pump it a couple of times it seems fine.

I am trying to bleed the slave cylinder now to see if they just left some air in the system, but it doesn't seem to be working. There isn’t the normal nut to open and close the nipple it has this hand tunable top on it. However, no matter which way I turn the thing, it won’t bleed out. Picture below, any help would be appreciated.




- Luke

 

Is the reservoir filled,and did you turn the bleeder all the way to the passenger side to open?

 

Finally got it, it wasn't truning all of the way when I was doing it by hand; actually had to use a wrench the first time until the brake fluid lubed it up.

 

sweet, just a question, how did it turn out and i know this may sound stupid to ask but how EXACTLY did you bleed your slave( step by step after installing it on the trans) ,im in the same process of doing it to mine,and just want to do it right this time.we broke the other one i ordered,so im waiting for a new one. and did you ever encounter this "o-ring" everyone talks about. did it look like this

 

It’s shifting really smooth now. Just followed these steps

1) Attach bleeder hose to nipple
2) Have someone sit inside and pump the clutch 5-6 times then hold it down
3) Open the valve (had to use a crescent wrench & it goes a little over a quarter of a turn)
4) Close the valve when you release all of the pressure
5) Let the pedal back up
6) Rinse and repeat until you don’t see any more bubbles or about three times


--- I didn't see that o-ring but its probably for the line coming down from the master

 

the best way to bleed it is to use an automotive syringe and flush it from the slave to the master cylinder

 

Luke, I had the EXACT experience. Centerforce installed several months ago...now when things heat up gets hard to shift into 1st. Bleeding it did not help me. Replacing the slave the other night the hydraulic line was hard coming off the old slave. Slave was JUNK!. I fished out the old oring from the bad slave, stuck it on the end of the hydraulic line and connected it up. As soon as I applied pedal pressure the line leaked where it connects to the slave. I took the slave out and put it in about 5 times, each time trying to reseat the oring. I swear - it seemed like if I put pressure on the hyraulic line in the wrong direction it would break seal and start to leak. The best seal I got would drip two drops when the pedal was pushed. The truck was driveable but I decided I was "on to something" and tried another reseat. After that it just gushed when the clutch was pushed so I gave up and ordered a new tube from the dealership AND online - so I'll have two for the years to come.

I guess I would LOVE to hear from anyone who followed the prescribed procedure, re-using the old o-ring, and had a problem similar to mine. It didn't look damaged, but then again I didn't put it under magnification. No splits or cracks. The fit was probably on the loose side going in compared to how hard it was coming out.

Has anyone every experienced a leak AFTER PROPERLY SEATING A RE-USED ORING?

Thanks!

 

Don't even mess with that. Just reverse bleed it and be done with it. manually push the slave cylinder in from under the jeep, all of the air will work its way up and you're good to go. Takes minutes.

 

Exactly. I do just that, never had an issue. Until now. Leaking like a stuck pig WITH the bushing installed. Cross fingers all I need is a fresh bushing. This one has been through two slabes and 76k miles

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9T976hAAMQ