ronjenx

When you disconnect the wire from the starter, and someone turns the key to the START position, the relay in the TIPM clicks, and you get 12v at the end of the wire?

But when you reconnect the wire, and someone turns the key to the start position, the relay in the TIPM clicks, and you get 0 volts where the wire is connected to the solenoid?


If the above is what's happening, switch the starter relay and the rear defogger relay. See if it starts like it should.

If that makes no difference, maybe there is a problem with the wire that goes from the TIPM to the starter solenoid.

cherokee980

I switched the relay as you suggested and it still does the same thing...I suppose I will trace the wire from the starter back and see if the wire is messed up somewhere along the way..also I wanted to say thank you for the help you have provided to me so far. I really appreciate it.

JK_Crawler

Buy or borrow a Digital Multimeter and check to see if your getting 12v at the starter when you turn the key. I can tell you your not because you can Jump the starter with another 12V source and it starts... Could be a loose or bad connector or it could be a broken, chaffed, or corroded wire. It could also be the Fuse block itself A.K.A the TIPM, I think that will be the culprit. TIPM's have been a issue for some people on here and it seems like that's what's going on. We know the voltage is coming into the TIPM because the relay is clicking, I'm pretty sure it's not coming out of the TIPM and going to the starter.

Also you can ohm the wire from the starter to the TIPM and see if the wire is carrying voltage... If it shows 0L then there is a open A.K.A damaged wire. If you see .003-.004 ETC there is continuity A.K.A the wire is good. These are starting points, I could go more into depth but I'm afraid I might loose you.

The jist of it is check for 12v coming into the TIPM and see if its coming out. If you have 12v coming out the TIPM then you need to ohm the wire, I think you will find your problem at the TIPM though.
Good luck!

cherokee980

I have checked the ignition/start wire that goes to the solenoid. It does have 12V when key is in crank position..here is the crazy part..the voltage is there as long as that wire is NOT attached to the starter..the moment I connect that wire back to the starter the voltage vanishes. Tomorrow when the sun comes up I am going to check that wire from TIPM to starter..if that is not it I was told to carefully lift the TIPM out, disconnect the plug that controls that circuit and re-install and check again. So I have a few more options to try before I just go completely bat shit crazy. I also pulled my battery this evening and put on a slow trickle charge for the night.

Not sure about this but I was told to also check the brake switch as that could have been my issue with not shifting out of park and could be sending signal to TRS and making it "think" the jeep is not in a proper cranking gear. Not sure where the brake switch is at but I would assume it is by the brake pedal...so still have work to do..obviously.

I am open to any suggestions!!

ronjenx

The clicking starter relay indicates that all the safety parameters have been met. In other words, there is noting in the wrong position, no bad switches, etc. The safety things will prevent power from going to the starter relay coil. You have verified the relay coil is getting power.

The issue now is why does the wire from the TIPM to the starter solenoid show 12v potential, but will not supply enough juice to throw the solenoid.

Put a 12v test light on the wire after disconnecting it from the starter. See if it lights brightly when the key is turned to START.

14Sport

If he verified the relay is working and when he provides a different 12V source to the starter it works, then doesn't it have to be the wire or connector between the TIPM and the starter?

JK_Crawler

Load test the starter solenoid wire, it's similar to using a test light like Ron suggested but, a test light doesn't supply a high enough load. If your getting 12+V of cranking voltage when it's unplugged there is no load on the circuit and that could be the problem. When there's a load the circuit it can't carry the voltage, which in return it won't crank. here's how to perform a load test and you only need a few components to do so.

1. Find or Buy a 2 Prong headlamp bulb
2. Use a wire the same gauge as the starter solenoid
3. Buy some female pins and crimp the wire to the pins
4. Plug pins into male prongs on bulb
5. Put a male pin on one end of one wire (this end plugs into starter solenoid connector)
6. Put an eyelet or an alligator pin to clap onto a good ground.

Plug the wire with male pin into starter solenoid connector and put the other wire on a good ground. Turn the key and the bulb should illuminate. You can put your multimeter on the circuits as well to see the voltage coming out, the headlamp bulb is what's supplying the load on the circuit. This test is the same exact thing as using a test light but The test light can't produce the load the headlamp bulb can. This is a good test to check a circuit that's producing good voltage without a load on it, I have several of these rigs that I built and keep in my tool box at work.

cherokee980

I am going to get an OHM reading on the wire from the TIPM to the starter solenoid..If that returns nothing I will build the headlight / test light and put the wire under a load and check it..

Stay tuned and I will let you guys know what I find

Side note: During all of my testing, crawling under, over, in and out of my Jeep I did manage to find more problems..That I can fix easily...

1. leaking power steering reservoir
2. front drive shaft was just about to take a dump on me
3. found a front passenger shock that was bad
4. Leaking fuel line (supplied by AEV with the conversion kit)

So maybe it is a good thing my heap is sitting stationary...

and once again, I can't thank you guys enough for all the help!

14Sport

Sounds like a good plan. If it's not the TIPM, there may be a partial or full break of the wire internally. It's certainly possible that when you disconnect it from the starter and put your probe on there, it is making contact at a break just from the wire being moved around. And if it's a partial break, the wire would still show continuity but just not be able to handle a load. A quick test may be to just run a jumper wire and see what happens.

cherokee980

I thought about a jumper wire as well..Just tap into where the wire comes out of TIPM and take it to starter solenoid