The only reason I could see a re-flash required would be for the shifting strategy e.g. (line pressure, shift timing, etc.) and possible changes to timing and air/fuel at certain RPM's (doubtful). Might be something to consider if you are towing frequent and/or heavy loads. Or, like was said before, DC wants to know who is towing!!!

 

[QUOTE=skibum;79729] Be advised however, that you do need to change the fluid in the rear diff. to 90W according to the owner's manual.

QUOTE]


Just a question on the fluid swap...

Do I have to remove the cover, or can i use the plug at the bottom of the houseing to drain the fluid?

I plan to swap to the Mobil One stuff.

FYI - Cost to install 7 pin harness, and wire up everything was about $60 at the dealer. They wanted about $130 to change the diff fluid.

 

Can anyone help with a simple one - where do you tie in the blue brake light wire - I have the mopar 7 way harness wiring kit and wired everything but wasn't clear where to go through the fire wall from the engine compartment and then what to do with the blue wire - supposed to go to the brake pedal switch? Any advice???

 

If you have an auto tranny, I'd turn O/D when towing.

 

I fix'nt to get a hitch put on and the dealer is going to put on the wiring harness for free sense they scratched and dented my Jeep up while doing some TSB stuff.
I read in manual for what fluid needed to be changed for towing and in my manual it says use Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant SAE 75W-140 and the trac lock require additive for towing. But in this posted it said you need to change it to 90W and according to my manual that is whats in there SO I am confused......
I don't plan on doing any hard core towing all the time just towing our Pop up a couple of times a year.

We have always used 90W in all our vehicles weather we were towing or not.

 

You're not confused........I was. I remembered that the manual said it needed to be changed if you were going to tow but I apparently remembered "wrong" as to what weight to use. Follow the instructions in the manual. Sorry for any confusion.

 

Thanks,
I was just not sure if some required 90W and others required what my manual said. Like I said on all of our vehicles we use 90W but I guess I will use what DC says to use. Just to avoid giving then a reason to void my warrantee .

 

Okay so I have been towing a bit. First time at night the other day and noticed that the running lights are not running on the trailer.

After some detective work with the current confiming tool it would appear that there is no juice to my 7 pin to light the running lights.

Did some more detevtive work, added some fuses based on review of the owners manual fuse box diagram.

Still no juice to the 7 pin socket for the running lights? What am i missing? Is this what the flash is for?

Help.

Covert Ops

 

The way I read it, if you get a 4-pin you need no flash but if you get the 7-pin you need the flash. I also read if you don't get the flash and you try to use a 7-pin it can short the wiring out. I am having the dealer hook up the wiring and do the flash on mine.

 

My 7 pin worked fine with no flash. I did have the 4 pin harnes to start with. Since I unplugged the 4 pin to use the seven pin, I assumed it was just tapping the light lead from the brake lights. No reflash was performed on mine to get 7 pin function.