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towing with a stcik

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Old 12-23-2014, 05:24 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by rj'sjeep
I am pretty sure its 3500 lbs using an auto on a 3.8 2008 jku
officially, yes, in the US the 4-door wrangler is rated to 3500 pounds. I'm just saying, and many in here agree, that this is an artificially low number when considering all the facts.
Old 12-23-2014, 05:31 PM
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I towed a heavier trailer than that with the family station wagon back in the 80s. It was a 69 Buick with drum brakes. It's amazing I'm still alive, lmao.
Old 12-23-2014, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_engineer
officially, yes, in the US the 4-door wrangler is rated to 3500 pounds. I'm just saying, and many in here agree, that this is an artificially low number when considering all the facts.
Could well be artificially low in North America but- I tow a 3500 lb dual axle with all wheel electric brakes as well as a progressive brake controller. 07 JKU. Major struggle even with OD off an flat roads with any headwind.
The only issue I have with towing that much over your rating is the clutch and the legal liability should you be found at fault for a serious collision.
You do know that lawyers and insurance companies check everthing at least twice-same as engineers
Agree about Liberty 5000lb and I now do all my heavy towing with our Grand Cherokee diesel with a 7200lb tow rating. But you know what? I wouldn't want a trailer landing on my head in any vehicle. JK roll cage holds up really well under torsion and compression loads.
In my opinion ALL vehicles should have the roof protection disclaimer stickers but we just happen to have them as the only roll cage equipped convertible on the market. And yes I do know a lot have a roll bar.....

Last edited by 101gargoyles; 12-23-2014 at 11:16 PM.
Old 12-23-2014, 11:27 PM
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I would always tow with a stick over an automatic hands down (everything being equal). Much more control, more gear selection, engine braking, less heat, drivetrain loss, slippage, etc.

Is there anything in particular you're concerned about? Just stopping and starting with a stick? Not really sure what your concern is...
Old 12-24-2014, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by sea bass
I would always tow with a stick over an automatic hands down (everything being equal). Much more control, more gear selection, engine braking, less heat, drivetrain loss, slippage, etc.

Is there anything in particular you're concerned about? Just stopping and starting with a stick? Not really sure what your concern is...
Ah well no...Started driving on the road illegally at age 15 in 1973 in my dad's GM 6500 truck with an Eaton split shift axle (5 speed converts to 10 - google it kids) manual. But WTF would I know?
Original question was towing with a stick. I replied and then the thread went to towing over rated guidelines OH my bad dude. In 1976 we got a replacement truck with an Allison automaticic tranny.
See: WTF above.
Main concern is on incline starts using a dry friction clutch as compared to a hydraulic clutch (AKA torque converter) AND as the OP stated that his vehicle is well over load rating sh.t can happen. It's all fun and games 'till someone looses an eye...
Read previous post where on an upgrade a stick and heavy load can be pretty tough to deal with 3 pedals and 2 feet. Yah been there done that and bought the bumper sticker.

Last edited by 101gargoyles; 12-24-2014 at 01:14 AM.
Old 12-24-2014, 05:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 101gargoyles
Could well be artificially low in North America but- I tow a 3500 lb dual axle with all wheel electric brakes as well as a progressive brake controller. 07 JKU. Major struggle even with OD off an flat roads with any headwind. The only issue I have with towing that much over your rating is the clutch and the legal liability should you be found at fault for a serious collision. You do know that lawyers and insurance companies check everthing at least twice-same as engineers Agree about Liberty 5000lb and I now do all my heavy towing with our Grand Cherokee diesel with a 7200lb tow rating. But you know what? I wouldn't want a trailer landing on my head in any vehicle. JK roll cage holds up really well under torsion and compression loads. In my opinion ALL vehicles should have the roof protection disclaimer stickers but we just happen to have them as the only roll cage equipped convertible on the market. And yes I do know a lot have a roll bar.....
From what I've read here, the 3.6 is a really big improvement over the 3.8 where towing is concerned. My 3.6 with the 3.73 rear tows the 5k alright around these parts. I do not use 6th gear at all - keep it in 5th on the highway. I've traveled in mountains in PA and VA and it does fine. I won't win any races, but it gets the job done. Last summer while leaving Shenandoah State Park I had to keep it in first gear for about a mile pulling uphill as the road went away from the river. I was nervous but everything turned out fine.
Old 12-24-2014, 05:28 AM
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having towed with both auto and manual jks, i prefer stick. More control, can easily keep it in the right gear etc... just dont ride the clutch.
Old 12-24-2014, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 101gargoyles
Ah well no...Started driving on the road illegally at age 15 in 1973 in my dad's GM 6500 truck with an Eaton split shift axle (5 speed converts to 10 - google it kids) manual. But WTF would I know? Original question was towing with a stick. I replied and then the thread went to towing over rated guidelines OH my bad dude. In 1976 we got a replacement truck with an Allison automaticic tranny. See: WTF above. Main concern is on incline starts using a dry friction clutch as compared to a hydraulic clutch (AKA torque converter) AND as the OP stated that his vehicle is well over load rating sh.t can happen. It's all fun and games 'till someone looses an eye... Read previous post where on an upgrade a stick and heavy load can be pretty tough to deal with 3 pedals and 2 feet. Yah been there done that and bought the bumper sticker.
I'm not really sure I understand your post?

Where did the OP say he was well over the load rating?

We're talking 3500lbs here - not 10k. Have you towed with an 4sp automatic vs the 6sp? I know that trying to start on an incline with a full load is not going to be good or fun - I too have done this many times but hopefully that's the exception and not the rule. I live in Seattle with plenty of hills and have only had an issue once. I stopped on the steepest hill I could find just to see what would happen and granted, I had a hard time with 37’s and 4.10’s. I ended up having to go down to 4lo until I could get back up on the flat. I didn't want to push it.

I don't know what the 4sp auto would have done but I'm sure the TC wouldn't be too happy either. Driving on hilly backroad without the torque converter locked up in a 4sp auto is gonna build some serious heat and cause premature wear. When does lock up happen? 50mph?

Last edited by sea bass; 12-24-2014 at 06:53 AM.
Old 12-24-2014, 08:56 AM
  #19  
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also depends what you tow... I don't want a stick on the boat ramp... launching and retrieving w/a stick, clutch, brake, etc. while working on the boat? no thanks.

I assume the stick has hill assist though as well?

Also, if you tow over the stated limit, regardless of vehicle "capacity", and are in an accident, you can bet it will factor into the legal and liability issues.

Your car, your ride, just note that it's an illegal setup, and you could be fined or worse.
Old 12-25-2014, 03:26 AM
  #20  
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Where did the OP say he was well over the load rating?

He didn't.
My reply was to post # 3...5000 pounds = 43% over tow rating of 3500 pounds

Last edited by 101gargoyles; 12-25-2014 at 03:45 AM.


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