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Towing a JKU Rubicon behind an RV, any advice on equipment?

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Old 06-17-2011, 04:31 PM
  #31  
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Here's a link to Towing Worlds State requirements. Hope it helps.

hxxp://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm


John

Last edited by mkjeep; 06-19-2011 at 06:52 AM. Reason: no clicky
Old 06-17-2011, 09:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by inverse121
My 2011 owners manual says key on, battery disconnected, but I am gonna try and see if the wheel lock is there or not.
Hello - first post here.

Apparently the 2011 manual needs an update. There is no steering lock in our '11 automatic. Spent some time on the phone with factory tech support. According to them, there is no need to leave the key in or disconnect the battery. They also said it would be fine to run a +12V line from the coach to the Jeep battery to keep it charged for tail lights and/or a braking system.
Old 06-18-2011, 06:59 AM
  #33  
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FWIW, the way ours is wired is I have a charge line for the Jeep in the 6 pin plug.
As for a rubber smell from the Jeep, I sometimes get it after towing for a while.
It disappears after about five minutes of driving the Jeep.
Hope this helps
Old 06-19-2011, 06:31 AM
  #34  
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Thanks for link...CA kinda vague but other good tow reference info. Its a yes for me then.
Old 06-20-2011, 05:44 PM
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Default Auto or Stick

I haven't heard anyone talk about their Jeeps being auto or stick. Does this have anything to do with towing with 4 down or 2 down (rear) when using a dolly if your JK is a auto. Making a move soon and might need to tow the JK behind a U-Haul. They say the drive shaft needs disconnected when using a dolly. The manual states "Front or rear wheel lifts should not be used, internal damage will occur." By lift I guess they mean a dolly?

Last edited by wmcvey; 06-20-2011 at 05:56 PM.
Old 06-20-2011, 05:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wmcvey
I haven't heard anyone talk about their Jeeps being auto or stick. Does this have anything to do with towing with 4 down or 2 down (rear) when using a dolly if your JK is a auto. Making a move soon and might need to tow the JK behind a U-Haul. They say the drive shaft needs disconnected when using a dolly. Our manual states, just don't do it.
Agreed - just don't do it. Transmission type does not matter, you should either roll 4 down or on a trailer. In your case, it would probably be easiest to get a trailer for the move. Rigging it up for 4 down is not super cheap. The trailer will be the easiest way to go.
Old 06-25-2011, 02:30 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by randy.pratt
I'm researching how to best set up my Rubicon to be towed by my RV. Though I know towing 4 down is OK with the JK, I'm still considering a dolly for the flexibility it would allow. I'm looking for any experiences good / bad with setting up towing 4 down or by a dolly. I'm really leaning toward 4 down, but am overwhelmed with the available variations of tow bars, tow bar mounts, brake buddies, etc. Yet leaving the possibility of towing my other fwd vehicle makes the dolly option attractive too. My Rubicon is completely stock at this point, so no special considerations there. Any experiences to share?
Hay randy, I just got done setting my JK up to tow behind my RV (2007 24 foot Coachmen Freelander Class C). Though it is not a Ruby. I have a 2009 2 door x (Auto Trans), I set mine up with the following. 1) Wiring harness by Cool tech, simple plug and play wire harness. Once connected ran wire through frame to front of jeep. 2) I installed Currie tow / skid plate. The Currie tow plate was a easy install, once installed I mounted wire harness connection. 3) I am using a surge brake system by night shift auto. Very simple system no electrical requirements. I did do some modification that I saw from a RV form. I added a turn buckle for adjustment. The connection to the foot peddle is simple. I did a modification to this also. I can provide a photo if needed or interested. I incorporated a quick release pin so cable was not in gauged full time. The cable penetrates the fire wall well away from exhaust, cable runs along frame to back of bumper secured with zip ties. My bumper is stock, I needed an extension nut to properly secure to bumper. Night shift supplies a actuation light for your dash of your RV so you know when brake is active. Jeep tows great, Like towing a boat, once on road, you don"t even feel it. But remember when towing allow distance. Autos give no quarter to people towing will cut you off in heart beat. Be safe! less than $1,000 for hole set up, but I will get a better tow bar that is self supporting and actually eliminates the ball connection (Blue Ox or Demco). Hope this helps.
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Last edited by jkdwb; 06-25-2011 at 11:23 AM.
Old 06-25-2011, 10:57 PM
  #38  
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Great thread. Thanks to all sharing.

We will soon be ready to get our towing set up put together. 2011 Rubi Unlimited with a 41' Gulf Stream Atrium (DP). The Currie plate/Blue Ox set up sounds good.

Should we be especially careful in selecting a place to install the plate?

We're in the Vancouver, WA/Portland, OR area.

Thanks again.
Old 06-26-2011, 03:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DHart
Great thread. Thanks to all sharing.

We will soon be ready to get our towing set up put together. 2011 Rubi Unlimited with a 41' Gulf Stream Atrium (DP). The Currie plate/Blue Ox set up sounds good.

Should we be especially careful in selecting a place to install the plate?

We're in the Vancouver, WA/Portland, OR area.

Thanks again.
The plate replaces the plastic plate that is under your front bumper, uses some of same holes, but you will need to drill some new holes. Currie provides complete instructions. The frame tube for securing the bottom of the plate is shorter on the 2009 model than design model 2007. Currie was called about the outer 2 bottom mounting holes. Currie indicated that the outer 2 holes were not needed. Currie indicates that newer models may need some minor trimming. But I moved in just to utilize the bolts. See attached photo. You may or may not have this. Also at the top where you bolt the top of the plate there is a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 backer rod where the top of mounting plate bolts this may or may not need some grinding. Mine did not but was a tight fit, just snug bolts evenly. Even though they provide locking Teflon nuts also use blue or red lock nut just for safety. You con contact Currie via email on there web site, they will be more than happy to send you installation instructions in pdf format.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/contact.aspx
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Last edited by jkdwb; 06-26-2011 at 03:49 AM.



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