XTJim

C17,

There is a lot of good info in this thread, but if it were me I would start simple. The stuttering and dying when coming to a stop leads me to believe there is a vacuum leak/air leak somewhere in the system. I'd start by checking your cold air intake and throttle body spacer for leaks, tightening clamps, etc. The EGR Valve is a good thing to check out too, but only after the quick basics were covered as well.

Another thing to keep in mind is the quality of fuel you're running. I don't think you mentioned what octane you're running or where you're getting fuel from, but if you're running 87 from a mom and pop station, you could be putting bad fuel in the truck. That could have had negative effects on your in-tank fuel filters. If you try getting fuel from a mainstream station like Sunoco or Shell, or try the station near you with ethanol free fuel and it seems to help, you might want to pursue a fuel system diag further.

With problems like this, I try to always start with the simple small stuff and work up to the larger teardowns/parts replacements later. I hope that this helps you out!

TheTerminator

It does seem a lot like a vacuum leak. I had a similar problem on a Dakota pickup. It would sometimes die at startup. Problem was a dirty idle air control valve. Once I cleaned that, the problem went away. I never heard of JK's having that valve, but it might point you in the right direction. I honestly think it's something small and stupid like that, not a major engine problem. If you still can't figure it out, then I'd just drop it off at a good mechanic and let him diagnose it. They deal with this kind of stuff all the time and would have more experience to help.

Blade

Put back in the OEM spark plugs. There are a few things you never go aftermarket with when it comes to any Chrysler vehicle. Spark plugs are one of those things. The factory plug burns alot hotter than that Bosch you put in. The Autoparts store will sell you these because they are $9-12 each when in fact, these plugs are meant for high compression applications like Turbo, Supercharged, or NA built motors where a cooler plug is desired to stop detonation. I would be willing to bet if you put back in the OEM plug you problem would go away and you'd get better MPG.

Rob

c17loadmaster

Good point. I just ran the tank dry and filled up half a tank with 93 octane ZERO ethanol gas. I know it burns hotter, but it is the only ethanol free grade around here.

Ill replace the plugs and if that fails Ill go with the EGR valve. I triple check the throttle body for leaks, and since it doesnt have an idle air controller ( that I know if) a mechanic may be next in line.

Blade

They do have a Idle air contol, but it is not a valve. Now it is the entire throttle body which will run you a pretty penny. The spark plugs will do the trick. Just don't ever listen to those idiots at the aftermarket shops. Those guys are hired without having any experience and for the most part couldn't wrench their way out of a wet paper bag. They are taught to make money and upsell to make the most money, whether it is good for your vehicle or not. I know, I used to be one of those idiots. For some reason the computer in the new chryslers can't compensate for anything outside the norm.

Flip94ta

I don't want to sound harsh but I'm doubtful ethanol is your problem. We are all using it and and not stalling. The vacuum leak sounds like the right first step, mice chew lines this time of year looking for a warm place and a meal. Unplug your lines and inspect the hoses.

Concentrate on the plugs next, I used to sell that crap and pushed basic autolite, champion and NGK plugs. Everything else is a gimmick, please don't buy Splitfires, E3, plus4's, etc. The OEM's are using iridium exclusively now and I'd say it's the new standard. NGK and denso make good ones.

A semi common issue with all modern engines if the failure of the crank or cam sensor. You won't necessarily get a code but engine will stall and restart immediately like nothing happened. Several companies like Nissan have had recalls, iirc jeep hasnt but the can still fail. Sensors are usually $20-30 bucks.

Yankee

While it may be just the plugs, if I read the thread right your JK has been dieseling on shutdown for 2 years before you changed the plugs. That ain't right.

Codes or not, the crank or cam sensor (or wires leading to and from) would also be suspect to me. I believe those help the computer set ignition/injection timing, and seems like that could cause the stalling/deiseling you have if they were flakey. Or... maybe they are fine but the ECU or whatever reads them is not.

eslack32

I would look into the cam sensor too. I had an altima that would shut down at a red light and act strange like you are describing too. Now that i think about my mother in law's altima had to have the cam sensor replaced too for doing the same crap.

c17loadmaster

Wow. You guys sure do know a lot about this stuff! I will definatly take your advice and get rid of the plus 4 bosch plugs. I didnt realize they are really just for engines that have high compression.

I didnt think ethanol was the main problem, but wanted to run some " real" gas through it to clear it up. Sadley even with 93 octane zero ethanol, it still stalls.

I will very well look into the cam sensor ( gotta find it on the engine)

What vacuum lines do I need to check? How many are there? I am not real familiar with vacuum lines.

There arent that many hoses so i guess I could check them all.

I was super close to ordering the EGR valve but stopped so I could start with plugs.

Next stop napa for plugs...

Flip94ta

Ours was an Altima too, I paid $230 to have one of the sensors done and I replaced the other. Watch that motor(2.5)for oil burning as well. It's just not Nissan though, many of these sensors fail and it stinks that you won't get a cel.