spark plug removal on JK
06-12-2010, 05:21 PM
#1
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spark plug removal on JK
Has anybody had the opportunity to hit 100,000 miles and maybe get to change the spark plugs? If so how do you get to the plugs at the rear on the passengers side? I'm trying to find an easy way. If not than the hard way.
06-12-2010, 07:48 PM
#2
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There really is no easy way, it's getting the right extension and losing some skin on the knuckles...
Look at it this way, start on the passengers side and once they are out, the rest are a walk in the park....
Look at it this way, start on the passengers side and once they are out, the rest are a walk in the park....
06-13-2010, 02:11 AM
#5
JK Jedi Master
I haven't had that pleasure yet (LOL), but have you looked to see if removing the fender would help? It certainly made access to the EGR sensor a lot easier than trying from above. If you decide that's a good idea: BEFORE YOU DO THAT, read my write-up on replacing the EGR sensor--you'll want to have some parts on hand before beginning that job (clips for the fender--read the write-up and all should be clear).
EGR Valve Replacement Write-up (it's actually a sensor, but I haven't gotten around to fixing the write-up, yet).
EGR Valve Replacement Write-up (it's actually a sensor, but I haven't gotten around to fixing the write-up, yet).
06-13-2010, 08:03 AM
#6
I just upgraded my plugs to NGK Iridium IX plugs and did all six. I did not have to remove the fender liner but some find it easier to do that. I think all are easy to access right from the top. There is plenty of room to work. I have no idea way everyone is making a big deal out of the right rear. Once you get in there you will see there is plenty of room to get them in and out.
Last edited by burnout88; 06-13-2010 at 08:15 AM.
06-13-2010, 12:18 PM
#7
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I just did this yesterday.
It's not near as hard as it looks. Just remove the clamp (holding the hoses) and the spark plug wire loom from from the studs on the valve cover and then the back two are pretty easy to get to.
I used a swivel head ratchet with a 4" extension on the middle plug and a 2" for the back one. (It was actually a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter and then another 1/2" back to 3/8". That gave me the perfect length. A 3/8" swivel is about the right size also, but I didn't want to take a chance of cracking a plug.)
I found it a lot easier to use my right hand to pull the back two boots. (Just remember to give them a good twist first to break the seal.)
Also, I bought a "Skill Power Wrench" on clearance last year for use on the hard top and diff cover bolts, so that made the task of screwing the long threaded plugs in and out a piece of cake. I'd just break them loose with my regular ratchet first.
Oh, and locking extensions made life easier.
It's not near as hard as it looks. Just remove the clamp (holding the hoses) and the spark plug wire loom from from the studs on the valve cover and then the back two are pretty easy to get to.
I used a swivel head ratchet with a 4" extension on the middle plug and a 2" for the back one. (It was actually a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter and then another 1/2" back to 3/8". That gave me the perfect length. A 3/8" swivel is about the right size also, but I didn't want to take a chance of cracking a plug.)
I found it a lot easier to use my right hand to pull the back two boots. (Just remember to give them a good twist first to break the seal.)
Also, I bought a "Skill Power Wrench" on clearance last year for use on the hard top and diff cover bolts, so that made the task of screwing the long threaded plugs in and out a piece of cake. I'd just break them loose with my regular ratchet first.
Oh, and locking extensions made life easier.