itasor

My rear driver's side axle seal is leaking. Last year I had a stuck caliper on that corner that got really hot and I suspect that may have roasted the seal.

I don't have a press big enough to do an axle shaft bearing and ring. I'm not really interested in upgrading the rear axle shafts for extra strength.

With that said, after pricing out the seal, bearing, ring, possibly new retainer and nuts and having a shop press it for me...as dumb as it sounds, would it not make more sense to just get another complete axle shaft (with everything already pressed on)? Mopar is expensive, but it seems Dana is not (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...530156&jsn=949 is $158.79). Obviously Mopar doesn't make axle shafts, so this Dana one is probably the OEM axle shaft anyway, no? It seems incredibly cheap for everything...

Any advice on this would be appreciated -- thanks!

Nemisus

Good morning itaso,

I am literally in the process of doing the same thing. Had an issue with the left rear seal after a mishap with the wheel lugs. Only difference is I upgraded to 4340 axles by Yukon. I have a 75th Sahara that comes factory with a Rubicon Rear locked Axle. Made sense to me to upgrade but considered keeping it OEM as well. There are a few place that really do sell these affordable. Just makes sure it specifically states (or even call and verify) that the bearings and seals are pressed on. More than likely you are correct with the assumption that OEM was made by Dana.

As a simpler way of getting the job done, pre assembled made most sense for me. As long as your E back assembly isn't ceased in place the job doesn't take very long when swap in shafts.

Hope this helps,

Cheers

Nem

icrashbikes

I think it's pretty standard to replace the whole shaft. I think I've seen one person pass through here who did the seals. For most it's a good time to upgrade to beefier shafts, though I realize that's not your priority. For the cost and effort, replacing the shaft is the way to go.

TheDirtman

I doubt you need the bearing, but if so the bearing and seal are round $40. There should not be anything wrong with the retainer plate and if it does, that not come with new axles. You can borrow pullers from auto stores. Slip a piece of tube or pipe over the shaft and tap the bearing on with a hammer, just make sure you are on the inner part of the bearing.

ronjenx

Agreed; comes with everything, including the retainer plate.

itasor

Thanks everyone -- I think I'll go for the $158 Dana one I linked to above and just change the whole thing!

resharp001

The only thing that is weird is pricing on that unit is all over the map when searching online. Wouldn't think that it would be that cheap at RockAuto but it does clearly say that is a fully assembled unit.

RockAuto is a sponsor here and there is a discount code valid through September -
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/spon...2021-a-356800/

sahara16

I’m having the same issue with my 2016 JK. Did the Dana axle work out for you?

Sixty4x4

I just got new bearings (Timken) and seals (National) from Rock auto and partially cut and beat them off and pressed new ones on. Absolute piece of cake. Both cost $75 to do. And my bearings had play in them whereas the new ones do not.

Skytow

I did this as I had multiple leaks with an old axle / seal(s) combination. I got the Rock Auto Dana assembly and it was good to go and $158. It was the complete assembly. No more leaks and I’m happy.