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Replacing Brake fluid

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Old 03-28-2016, 12:43 PM
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RLT
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Default Replacing Brake fluid

Although fluid looks OK recent test while at dealers suggested it wasn't in 'tip top' condition.
Was planning to do this shortly anyway with assistance.
(Done all four callipers so some has been replaced over time)

Just a few questions & education please

1. How much DOT3 brake fluid will I need to have at hand ?
2. Does the clutch master require bleeding also ?

Importantly
3. Does replacing all the brake fluid also work its way into the ABS system ?

Cheers
Old 03-29-2016, 03:28 AM
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We do this to my fathers tack car each year to maintain compliance with the safety rules. We simply get 2 quarts and bleed like normal until the 2 quarts are used. It makes for a tired leg from doing all of that pumping and pushing on the brake lever. You could use 1 quart and be fine, we use 2 just to make extra sure that all of the old fluid is pushed out. It's not like your standing on your JK brakes repeatedly at 160 MPH.... your just refreshing the fluid to make sure your pushing any contaminated (water) fluid out.
Old 03-29-2016, 03:46 AM
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I would invest in a brake bleeder kit. If you have a compressor a pneumatic one is nice but even if not the hand one is a lot better than the conventional 2 person way.
Old 03-29-2016, 12:18 PM
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I usually bleed through a large bottle of fluid...US Quart. perhaps I am A/R but much prefer the manual pump the master cylinder and crack the bleeders at each wheel as I have experienced air left when using vacuum or pressure bleeder systems.
Old 03-29-2016, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RLT
Although fluid looks OK recent test while at dealers suggested it wasn't in 'tip top' condition.
Was planning to do this shortly anyway with assistance.
(Done all four callipers so some has been replaced over time)

Just a few questions & education please

1. How much DOT3 brake fluid will I need to have at hand ?
2. Does the clutch master require bleeding also ?

Importantly
3. Does replacing all the brake fluid also work its way into the ABS system ?

Cheers
It looks like most of your questions haven't received a reply yet.

A1: Based upon changing my entire brake system I would recommend having 44oz on hand. You will only need about 18-24oz. to fill the entire brake system, but having extra for bleeding purposes is my recommendation. I used an entire 32oz bottle, and having an additional 12oz bottle hanging around for just in case, is a good idea.

A2: Sorry, I can't help you out there. I own an auto, and have no experience with manuals although I'm aware there is an additional connection on the MC in the manuals for the clutch.

A3. NO. The ABS and any fluid inside is typically locked within the ABS. To open the ABS, a Starscan tool (dealer item) is needed to activate opening the ABS. Essentially, You need to do a Starscan bleed to include the ABS fluid. Others have suggested bleeding then driving on a gravel road and slamming on your brakes to open the ABS and then run out and bleed the brakes on sight while the ABS is open.

Your mileage may vary on the perception of that last method. Personally, it sounds like something straight out of a Jeff Foxworthy comedy routine....."You might be a redneck if......."

Last edited by Rednroll; 03-29-2016 at 01:28 PM.
Old 03-30-2016, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
Others have suggested bleeding then driving on a gravel road and slamming on your brakes to open the ABS and then run out and bleed the brakes on sight while the ABS is open.
I don't believe that bleeding the brakes on site while the system is "open" is accurate. As soon as you stop moving the ABS system isn't "open" anymore. However, it will have pushed the old fluid out and pulled in new fluid. The full procedure for this would be to bleed the brakes, drive the vehicle and activate the ABS system, then completely bleed the brakes again. This would flush out the old fluid that was in the ABS module.

Or just let the dealership do it with the Starscan tool.
Old 03-30-2016, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Grant09
I don't believe that bleeding the brakes on site while the system is "open" is accurate. As soon as you stop moving the ABS system isn't "open" anymore. However, it will have pushed the old fluid out and pulled in new fluid. The full procedure for this would be to bleed the brakes, drive the vehicle and activate the ABS system, then completely bleed the brakes again. This would flush out the old fluid that was in the ABS module.

Or just let the dealership do it with the Starscan tool.

Thats educational stuff about the ABS

Thanks



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