Preparing ball joint replacement
#1
JK Freak
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Preparing ball joint replacement
HI guys,
Yup a other ball joint replacement thread
I looked at the video and does not look hard to do.
So let start with the tool:
Since the real cup for the JK upper ball joint look to be none existent, I was thinking to fab my self a angled spacer, what is the angle required ?
For the ball join press I was thinking of a OTC 7249, do I have the adapter for the JK ball joint in there (size only as angle will be addressed by a angled spacer) or a need to add a cup kit?
the ball joint:
I was thinking to put back OEM as lately I do not have the time to do all my maintenance and I cannot trust shop to do maintenance on part that is not OEM, but I'm open to suggestion.
You can also throw any tidbit that can be good to know regarding this type of maintenance
Thanks
Yup a other ball joint replacement thread
I looked at the video and does not look hard to do.
So let start with the tool:
Since the real cup for the JK upper ball joint look to be none existent, I was thinking to fab my self a angled spacer, what is the angle required ?
For the ball join press I was thinking of a OTC 7249, do I have the adapter for the JK ball joint in there (size only as angle will be addressed by a angled spacer) or a need to add a cup kit?
the ball joint:
I was thinking to put back OEM as lately I do not have the time to do all my maintenance and I cannot trust shop to do maintenance on part that is not OEM, but I'm open to suggestion.
You can also throw any tidbit that can be good to know regarding this type of maintenance
Thanks
#2
JK Junkie
I replaced all mine with Napa GOLD/Spicer units. That was at 70k, I have 160k now and they are still solid. Best part is the lifetime warranty on them, one goes down the shitter, buy a new one, install, return the old one for a full refund. Compared to the OEM crap, these are SOLID!
#4
Super Moderator
Not sure you have a similar option in your area. Many of the parts stores here will rent you the ball joint press ( you pay for the kit and then bring it back for full refund ).
As for the angle, I think you mean that because of the coil bucket? If so, remove the tires from both sides of the axle, then stuff the side opposite that you are working on and then droop the side you are working on, you won't hit the coil bucket.
If you can afford it, I'd find a ball joint of your choice that isn't OEM, something with metal construction rather than plastic.
As for the angle, I think you mean that because of the coil bucket? If so, remove the tires from both sides of the axle, then stuff the side opposite that you are working on and then droop the side you are working on, you won't hit the coil bucket.
If you can afford it, I'd find a ball joint of your choice that isn't OEM, something with metal construction rather than plastic.
#5
JK Freak
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Not sure you have a similar option in your area. Many of the parts stores here will rent you the ball joint press ( you pay for the kit and then bring it back for full refund ).
As for the angle, I think you mean that because of the coil bucket? If so, remove the tires from both sides of the axle, then stuff the side opposite that you are working on and then droop the side you are working on, you won't hit the coil bucket.
If you can afford it, I'd find a ball joint of your choice that isn't OEM, something with metal construction rather than plastic.
As for the angle, I think you mean that because of the coil bucket? If so, remove the tires from both sides of the axle, then stuff the side opposite that you are working on and then droop the side you are working on, you won't hit the coil bucket.
If you can afford it, I'd find a ball joint of your choice that isn't OEM, something with metal construction rather than plastic.
The OTC kits were on sales so I got it cheap, really cheap.
The angle I'm talking is the inner portion of the upper C, did some measurement and at the far end of the C the thickness is 21 MM and on the other side of the ball joint the thickness is 30 MM therefore my receiving cup need to address this change in thickness / the angle. Yes I know I can use washer to address this but instead I will do some geometry and buff a peace of pipe.
Currently my tools need are mostly addressed, now I need to find my self some proper ball joint
#6
JK Enthusiast
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I went with synergy. They were 300 for both sides upper and lower. Also there wasn't a perfect cup size for the upper using a snapon brand of press. I couldn't use my impact on it either, not enough room so I used a breaker bar on it and tapped the c with a brass hammer till it popped. Did the u joints while I had the axles out as well.
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#8
JK Junkie
#9
JK Jedi Master
Short of reading Napa's warranty, it isn't possible to know how long that warranty really will be. Google "Napa lifetime warranty" and you'll find plenty of complaints about warranties not covered. Not to rag on Napa--they make good parts. Rather, just want to inform consumers who are unaware of warranty law.
#10
JK Junkie
"Lifetime warranty" is not legally defined by the government. "Full" and "Limited" are. Usually the lifetime warranty refers to the reasonable lifetime of the part--not of the owner of the part.
Short of reading Napa's warranty, it isn't possible to know how long that warranty really will be. Google "Napa lifetime warranty" and you'll find plenty of complaints about warranties not covered. Not to rag on Napa--they make good parts. Rather, just want to inform consumers who are unaware of warranty law.
Short of reading Napa's warranty, it isn't possible to know how long that warranty really will be. Google "Napa lifetime warranty" and you'll find plenty of complaints about warranties not covered. Not to rag on Napa--they make good parts. Rather, just want to inform consumers who are unaware of warranty law.