PCV Valve Housing
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PCV Valve Housing
Ok gents.. I have an '09 3.8L 64K that has the famous oil disappearing trick. I bought the Jeep bone stock with 23K and have loved every moment so far. I've done many cosmetic mods, all done myself, and typically change the oil myself. Occasionally I take it to a local shop that offers free rotation with oil change and have them rotate my tires for me- since I have no way of doing it myself.
Recently, my oil consumption has gotten pretty bad. I've always gotten out less than I put in, obviously. But the last time I changed my oil I was maybe 4-5k, a little late, but when I checked my oil level prior to the change I was well below the "safe" zone. Alarmingly low, actually.
Anyway I changed my oil, got a new air filter, and also read up that a bad PCV valve can cause oil burnination. So I replaced that too. Well.. in my attempts to get the old one out I managed to break a piece of the housing the valve slips into off. Currently, I have everything in place. The piece that broke off is small enough that the hose fits over it entirely and with the clamp everything seems to be holding up securely. I check after every trip and so far there is no oil leaking from around the area.
I have planned to epoxy this piece back together when I have some time. So for all you experts out there.. would that even work? Would the area be too hot for epoxy to stay solid? Is this housing replaceable? It looks like its all one massive piece of the engine.
Thanks for any and all help. Also if anyone is keeping score on oil consumption. I am at about 2.6k on this change and am below halfway in the "safe" area. I use 6 qts 5w20.
Recently, my oil consumption has gotten pretty bad. I've always gotten out less than I put in, obviously. But the last time I changed my oil I was maybe 4-5k, a little late, but when I checked my oil level prior to the change I was well below the "safe" zone. Alarmingly low, actually.
Anyway I changed my oil, got a new air filter, and also read up that a bad PCV valve can cause oil burnination. So I replaced that too. Well.. in my attempts to get the old one out I managed to break a piece of the housing the valve slips into off. Currently, I have everything in place. The piece that broke off is small enough that the hose fits over it entirely and with the clamp everything seems to be holding up securely. I check after every trip and so far there is no oil leaking from around the area.
I have planned to epoxy this piece back together when I have some time. So for all you experts out there.. would that even work? Would the area be too hot for epoxy to stay solid? Is this housing replaceable? It looks like its all one massive piece of the engine.
Thanks for any and all help. Also if anyone is keeping score on oil consumption. I am at about 2.6k on this change and am below halfway in the "safe" area. I use 6 qts 5w20.
#2
Super Moderator
It's been a while since I changed my PCV but does it not pop right into the valve cover? If that's the case then just replace the valve cover. It's dark otherwise I'd go look.
Your 5w-20 could also be a contributing factor. Move to 5w-30 or maybe even 5w-40 if you notice the consumption pick up quite a bit. While the 20 is the 'correct' spec oil, it's only to maximize fuel economy in a lab environment, it's not about maximizing your engine life.
Your 5w-20 could also be a contributing factor. Move to 5w-30 or maybe even 5w-40 if you notice the consumption pick up quite a bit. While the 20 is the 'correct' spec oil, it's only to maximize fuel economy in a lab environment, it's not about maximizing your engine life.
The following users liked this post:
John Parkhurst (01-12-2020)
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's been a while since I changed my PCV but does it not pop right into the valve cover? If that's the case then just replace the valve cover. It's dark otherwise I'd go look.
Your 5w-20 could also be a contributing factor. Move to 5w-30 or maybe even 5w-40 if you notice the consumption pick up quite a bit. While the 20 is the 'correct' spec oil, it's only to maximize fuel economy in a lab environment, it's not about maximizing your engine life.
Your 5w-20 could also be a contributing factor. Move to 5w-30 or maybe even 5w-40 if you notice the consumption pick up quite a bit. While the 20 is the 'correct' spec oil, it's only to maximize fuel economy in a lab environment, it's not about maximizing your engine life.
I'm assuming it's going to be a difficult and lengthy process.
#4
Super Moderator
No need to drain the oil, just make sure no debris drops into the engine when you've got the cover off. Check out the link below as well as the video. The link has the covers incorrectly named 'cylinder head covers' when they're valve covers. Pretty simple task and the cover should be cheap enough. Rock auto or the dealer should have what you need if your local auto parts store doesn't have it.
HELP -- Replacing valve cover - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
https://youtu.be/LbcOiIxsYl8
HELP -- Replacing valve cover - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
https://youtu.be/LbcOiIxsYl8
#5
JK Jedi Master
#6
Super Moderator
That seems like an odd name for it, but thank you for the info Ron. I learn something new every day!
#7
JK Jedi Master
My '88 XJ and MJ manuals, and my old slant six manuals call it cylinder head cover, too. I had to go back to my 1960's Scout manual to see it called valve rocker cover.
Trending Topics
#9
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No need to drain the oil, just make sure no debris drops into the engine when you've got the cover off. Check out the link below as well as the video. The link has the covers incorrectly named 'cylinder head covers' when they're valve covers. Pretty simple task and the cover should be cheap enough. Rock auto or the dealer should have what you need if your local auto parts store doesn't have it.
HELP -- Replacing valve cover - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
https://youtu.be/LbcOiIxsYl8
HELP -- Replacing valve cover - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
https://youtu.be/LbcOiIxsYl8
MOPAR has the 3.8 right side for ~$70. I'm sure I'll pay more at the stealership but seeing as how there's a broken piece on mine I feel like I need to do this swap asap. 2009 Jeep Wrangler. #4648976AD: Engine Valve Cover. Valve cover.
#10
JK Jedi Master