SamW12

Hey all,

Changed my oil last night for first time on my 2012 Wrangler. Or rather, I was lazy and had the jackass/dirt bag/con artist at Jiffy lube change it. Not only are they slow, incompetent, lying sacks of dirt, but they are rude too.

Anyhow enough on their lack of ethics. They brought to my attention that my motor requires oil that meets MS-6395 standard, which brings a $19.99 oil change to $49-$78, using synthetic oil (apparently). The BS in the room filled up fast. So I had them put conventional oil back in it. Paid my $27.58 bill and left as fast as I could before going postal.

This morning I have been searching for anything relating to just what in the heck meets the MS-6395 standard. Or if it is only a synthetic oil that does.

Already read enough conflicting reports to my search to become completely confused. I have always changed my own oil, and plan on doing so from here out as well.

I just want to know what oils will NOT damage my engine. Service department is closed until tomorrow.

minime

I would just going to the dealer and get the oil changed, Probably cheaper then doing it yourself. And if you do it yourself consult the owners manual. My girlfriend was told kinda the same thing about her Toyota corrolla and that the oil doesn't need to be changed until 10k, and every 10k after that. Talked to several dealers and found out that is only if she uses synthetic oil, but if she used conventional oil to change it every 5k. So needless to say they were trying to pull a fast one.

SamW12

There are only a few things that actually extend the life of oil. Magnetic filters, and centrifuges. Everything else in my opinion is fluff and do not significantly outperform just changing the oil.

Why does oil turn black? The black is carbon deposits left over from burnt fuel. It is these carbon deposits that are scaring you cylinder walls wearing out your motor. Unless you remove them from whatever oil your running, your just fooling yourself into thinking that synthetics, and their claims of high mileage between changes are valid. The synthetics may not break down as fast, but they still get just as dirty, just as fast as conventional oil.

So unless MS-6395 in referring to synthetic oil only. I won’t waste the money on it.

SamW12

The main reason for doing my own oil changes is to oversee the quality control myself. Not just to save money.

Just tired of getting screwed by so-called experts. Dealerships are inconvenient, expensive, and typically don’t have a very high standard in honesty.

m998dna

Ummm I think you're correct about the Jiffy Lube cons.... I believe the 2012 manual indicates you can use regular dino or as an option use synthetic oils. This is a turnabout from all other recent newer vehicles I've owned, the factory operators manual recommending synthetic.

I would take those pages out of the manual, show them to the manager and get your money back. Pennzoil conventional at $3.00 per quart meets Mopar MS-6395 standard. See attached.

Good luck with the cons.

EDIT: sorry, I didn't read the part where you had them use conventional, forget the comment about "get your money back"... you did the right thing!

m998dna

Getting back to your question ... I would use Pennzoil, everything from their conventional to their most expensive "Ultra Synthetic" meets the Mopar standard.

I believe ever since MY 2010... Pennzoil is the factory fill for Chrysler, at least it is for my 2010 Jeep SRT8 even though it says use Mobil One on the oil fill cap - Chrysler dealers fill using only Pennzoil Platinum now.

I was told they changed suppliers after the bankruptcy...

.02

SamW12

Thanks for scrolling down to that info. Boy do I feel stupid (been feeling that a lot lately). I was reading that just moments before posting. Clicked on the data sheet (temporarily out of commission), and moved on. Completely missed that part you just showed. Thank you very much!

minime

Yeah I use conventional oil, and change every 3k. That's what I will always do, and that's what I was taught to do by my father.

Radioman

FYI -
Castrol GTX and Valvoline Premium conventional motor oils also meet Chrysler's MS-6395 standard with their 5-30W oils according to their websites...

m998dna

yeah I got the same... BTW, I would use Pennzoil or possibly Valvoline. I've been using Pennz conventional in my 2002 8.1L van, Mobil One in my SRT8 and Mobil One Extra High Mileage in my 1991 Cherokee...

I used Valvoline Racing conventional for the entire life of my 1991 Cherokee, it has 177K miles. I think I'm going back to Valvoline Racing due to the higher ZDDP content, although Mobil High Mileage will do, I want to move away from expensive synthetics unless the owners manual specifically indicates to use it.

I'm a Pennzoil convert now... I'm ditching Mobil One synthetics for good.