OEM Front Wheel Unit Bearing Study
04-16-2010, 07:03 PM
#11
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
this last weekend I had removed my wheels to clean off the brake dust. while doing it I checked the from ball joints and had play in the passenger side. when I got under it, i discovered that the movement was coming from the wheel bearing. I went ahead and swap the rear and front tires. When I got the road, my steering wheel was shimming and the jeep had a pretty good vibration. Went home and put the tires back in their origianal positions, vibratioin went away. My 08 had 49000+ miles on it and I had rotated the front to rear because the front left was cupping. The Timken replacement is $142 from autozone. not bad. also on the above post, if you go to details on the timken site, you will see that they do use roller bearings instead of ball bearings like the OEM's.
I looked at a Timken replacement hub assembly for the Jeep JK. Not only does it have ball bearings in it, it has the exact same part numbers and company logo as the OEM assembly. Timken is selling ILJIN hub assemblies for the Jeep JK.
The Timken part number is HA590242. It appears on the box. On the actual part, is ILJIN's number, and Jeep's part number.
If you can go back to the site where you saw roller bearings in the Jeep JK hub, copy the link and post it here. Maybe they rectified the situation after I corresponded with Timken's Sr. Product Analyst, Automotive Aftermarket.
Otherwise, it has ball bearings, and is made by ILJIN.
Last edited by ronjenx; 04-16-2010 at 07:34 PM.
05-04-2010, 05:03 AM
#12
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The Timken site does show a hub with roller bearings in it. Unfortunately, the hub for the Jeep JK is not like the one they show.
I looked at a Timken replacement hub assembly for the Jeep JK. Not only does it have ball bearings in it, it has the exact same part numbers and company logo as the OEM assembly. Timken is selling ILJIN hub assemblies for the Jeep JK.
The Timken part number is HA590242. It appears on the box. On the actual part, is ILJIN's number, and Jeep's part number.
If you can go back to the site where you saw roller bearings in the Jeep JK hub, copy the link and post it here. Maybe they rectified the situation after I corresponded with Timken's Sr. Product Analyst, Automotive Aftermarket.
Otherwise, it has ball bearings, and is made by ILJIN.
I looked at a Timken replacement hub assembly for the Jeep JK. Not only does it have ball bearings in it, it has the exact same part numbers and company logo as the OEM assembly. Timken is selling ILJIN hub assemblies for the Jeep JK.
The Timken part number is HA590242. It appears on the box. On the actual part, is ILJIN's number, and Jeep's part number.
If you can go back to the site where you saw roller bearings in the Jeep JK hub, copy the link and post it here. Maybe they rectified the situation after I corresponded with Timken's Sr. Product Analyst, Automotive Aftermarket.
Otherwise, it has ball bearings, and is made by ILJIN.
my question is can i use a 1 ton 3prong gear puller to get the hub off the shaft or will i require a press?
05-04-2010, 06:06 AM
#13
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
well i just figured out my problem is the bearing up front. I threw code for erradic wheel speed which after jacking up the passenger tire, it had noticable movement.
my question is can i use a 1 ton 3prong gear puller to get the hub off the shaft or will i require a press?
my question is can i use a 1 ton 3prong gear puller to get the hub off the shaft or will i require a press?
Penetrating oil and a puller as you describe should be sufficient.
05-04-2010, 06:16 AM
#14
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and I dont even wheel that hard or much.everyone always asks... "what causes them to go bad" and I think that with so many variances and lack of precision in this design, it really could be anything.
hooray for cutting corners to maximize profits!
05-04-2010, 12:03 PM
#15
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BFH got my hub assembly off. The rear PITA was the hub nut, not sure what it is on the JK but on my old ZJ it was a 36mm. I think I drank two beers while holding the impact gun, non-stop. that thing was STUCK on there. But, after 100K+ miles, I can understand why it was stuck
05-04-2010, 01:05 PM
#16
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
Regarding the center hub nut:
I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a long pipe on it. Works with almost no effort.
And for applying the torque on installation, (if you don't have a torque wrench), divide the torque spec by your weight, and that's how far out on the handle you need to stand. Just be sure you keep repositioning the socket so the bar is horizontal when your full weight, (not jumping up and down), is on the bar.
Take all the obvious precautions to avoid a slip and fall.
Break the torque, and reapply the torque when the Jeep is at rest on all four wheels.
I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a long pipe on it. Works with almost no effort.
And for applying the torque on installation, (if you don't have a torque wrench), divide the torque spec by your weight, and that's how far out on the handle you need to stand. Just be sure you keep repositioning the socket so the bar is horizontal when your full weight, (not jumping up and down), is on the bar.
Take all the obvious precautions to avoid a slip and fall.
Break the torque, and reapply the torque when the Jeep is at rest on all four wheels.
Last edited by ronjenx; 05-04-2010 at 01:11 PM.
05-12-2010, 05:35 PM
#17
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Regarding the center hub nut:
I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a long pipe on it. Works with almost no effort.
And for applying the torque on installation, (if you don't have a torque wrench), divide the torque spec by your weight, and that's how far out on the handle you need to stand. Just be sure you keep repositioning the socket so the bar is horizontal when your full weight, (not jumping up and down), is on the bar.
Take all the obvious precautions to avoid a slip and fall.
Break the torque, and reapply the torque when the Jeep is at rest on all four wheels.
I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a long pipe on it. Works with almost no effort.
And for applying the torque on installation, (if you don't have a torque wrench), divide the torque spec by your weight, and that's how far out on the handle you need to stand. Just be sure you keep repositioning the socket so the bar is horizontal when your full weight, (not jumping up and down), is on the bar.
Take all the obvious precautions to avoid a slip and fall.
Break the torque, and reapply the torque when the Jeep is at rest on all four wheels.
07-27-2010, 05:51 PM
#19
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
07-27-2010, 07:01 PM
#20
JK Super Freak
Fascinating stuff.
Well, I tend to like the fact we've got sealed wheel bearings, especially after you've concluded the seal appears to do its job. I encountered a LOT of water earlier in the month when me and two trail pals were wheeling in Colorado; they're both doing wheel bearing repacks on all four corners before we go out again in August.
Anyway, thanks for the interesting dissection and discussion.
Well, I tend to like the fact we've got sealed wheel bearings, especially after you've concluded the seal appears to do its job. I encountered a LOT of water earlier in the month when me and two trail pals were wheeling in Colorado; they're both doing wheel bearing repacks on all four corners before we go out again in August.
Anyway, thanks for the interesting dissection and discussion.