adamisadam

So I have a spare set of Driveshafts in my garage. On my JK, both my boots are gone from my shafts. I've been spraying whilte lithium grease in there to try and keep them in good shape until I do something more permanent.

So the rear spare shaft in my garage has the dust boot in place keeping the two sections of the driveshaft together. I was going to swap that one into my JK but I noticed that the end CV joint boot is rotted and has a small hole.

So now I'm thinking maybe I can make one good shaft from the two.

So I take the dust boot clamp off from one side and discover that the driveshaft is simply two pieces that slide apart. NOW at least I seen how to install the boot from one shaft to the other.

HERE THE KICKER...
I pulled apart that extra DS. I realized it's got weights ON EACH HALF!!! Does that mean the two halves can only mate one way to remain balanced? Or is each half balanced separately?

I'm thinking of combining the two shafts to make one good one. Can I mix two shafts (ie, the male from one with the femal from another) and still expect it to be balanced or must the entire shaft be rebalanced?


"Servicing my shaft" ()

So I'm wondering if I should take my OEM shaft off the JK. Pull the two halves apart AFTER marking them to make sure they go back together the same way, after I sand off any surface rust, pack grease in there for good movement and using the dust boot from my spare shaft. Will this work?

I'm hoping to keep the OEM rear shaft for a while more just to save $450 or so.

Last question:
How do I remove the OEM shaft? Can I just remove the bolts from where the DS meets the rear diff and the slide that half of the shaft off the Jeep, so my boot replacement and reinstall?


a big TIA!!!

captjay

"Servicing my shaft" dude, im not even going there

it would make sense that you could put the two together, i think the ds is balanced as one then the weight added or the first piece is balanced then put together then balance again since it has 2 weights on it but overall it should be balanced as one.

yea u should be able to just unbolt, slide it in, and re bolt. you could probably drive it and check for vibes and if so then remove and get balanced.

if you cant figure it out or doesnt work, i have a rear stock ds for sale from 4 dr sahara for a good deal. pm on that if interested

adamisadam

thanks. we'll see. I checked both my DS and they are pretty rust free on the yoke surfaces. my spraying lithium on them appears to be working. I'm going to take them apart tomorrow & see how they feel, & install that factory boot from the spare shaft. then I'll do the same with the front shaft using a Rancho boot I found on line until I am ready to spend the money on new DS's.

adamisadam

Well, I just successfully removed the rear section of my rear DS (after marking both halves to assure it goes back together the way it came apart to keep balance the same), then cleaned it all, sanded the surface rust, re-greased and re-installed with the donor boot in place. viola!

I used zip-ties for now, but will get the proper clamps.

I'm going to remove the front shaft and clean it up just to make sure it's operating smoothly, but I need an aftermarket shaft up there anyway to avoid contact with the tranny pan.

Hey, what's the torque setting on those 8 small 8mm bolts that hold the shaft to the diff?

mkjeep

Not much , 15 ftlbs

adamisadam

So these are called "Axle Flange Bolts?"

I found the chart:

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ings#propshaft

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PROPELLER SHAFT

DESCRIPTION
N·m
Ft. Lbs.
In. Lbs.

Front Shaft - Axle Flange Bolts
110
81
-

Front Shaft - Transfer Case Flange Bolts
20
15
-

Rear Shaft - Axle Flange Bolts
20
15
-

Rear Shaft - Transfer Case Flange Bolts
20
15
-

mkjeep

yeah, unless their to the tf case flange, then the name changes to tf case flange bolts

Suffolk JK

15ft lbs seems low for a shaft bolted to the t-case. I used the good 'ole grunt method when I replaced it on the trail.

adamisadam

Here's the write-up and pics of removing and re-installing the dust boot on a rear drive shaft:

Put rear axle on jack stands and keep tranny in N.

First, MARK the two halves of the driveshaft so that when you take them apart, you can put them together exactly in the same position to avoid throwing off the balance of the assembled driveshaft. I took a dremmel and ground a long line/mark in the rust on both halves. I also used a marker to extend that line really far so it can be seen easily.

Unbolt the eight 8mm bolts from the rear differential.

Remove the rear driveshaft. MUCH EASIER SAID THAN DONE given that the flange was a bit rusted into place. I sprayed Kroil penetrating oil, then hit a piece of 2x4 with a 2lb mallet from the rear of the shaft towards the front of the Jeep, while rotating the driveshaft between taps. Eventually it came free.

I put a box under the front half of the shaft so it can rest on it and not stress the CV joint at the transfer case, then simply slid the rear half of the driveshaft out and away from the Jeep.


My shaft was still moving nicely in and out, which was a relief. (now I gotta check the front shaft!) I had been spraying the shaft regularly with white litium grease and it was doing a good job of keeping things lubed and reducing surface rust.

I had taken the good boot from a donor shaft (thanks again, Joey2times) the same way, by pulling it apart.
Boot:


Donor shaft pic:



NOTE: THE BOOT HAS A FRONT AND BACK. The diameters are different front to rear so note which way it came off. Don't ask me how I know.

I cleaned the driveshaft on my work bench. I sanded any surface rust off, wiped it all down, and then took out CV joint grease I had (what they use to factory pack CV joints) and lined the entire shaft with hit. I also cleaned out the inside of the half of the shaft still on my Jeep. It was all pretty clean - not a lot of mud in there as luck would have it.



I slipped the boot over the rear half and all the way down, lined up my marks and I slid the rear half of the shaft back inside the front half. if the boot is mounted in the correct way, it will all slide into place nicely. I also measured the distance BEFORE removing the boot so I knew where it goes, but it really just goes into the proper place on it's own - it rests on the flat surface of the shaft for a good seal all the way around the boot under the clamps.

I put some great on the end of the shaft where it goes into the yoke to make it easier to get out next time. Torqued the 8mm bolts down to 20ft lbs (seems light, so I'll re-check them later.) I used zip ties for now until I get the correct bands on the dust boot.



...And took it for a ride. ALL OK!

mkjeep

Good lord that shaft is thin. No wonder they twist like a coke can.