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New bumper = much better 5k towing

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Old 08-29-2014, 09:46 AM
  #21  
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I just can't wrap my head around why a receiver welded to a 3/16" plate is considered stronger than the crossmember that is boxed. Even though it is made of a lighter gauge metal the boxing in conjunction with the hardening from being stamped is far stronger than even a 1/4" plate. (I've run the stress analysis)

Another thing to consider for those of you that are towing heavy loads: 99% of the brake controllers on the market are reactive, not proactive. They react to the inertia shift of the pulling vehicle's brakes being applied and then begin to ramp up the current to the brakes on the trailer. This means that every stop is initiated by the tow vehicle. In a panic stop, the trailer brakes may not have even reacted and the short wheelbase Jeep has begun to jack-knife. If you plan to do this at least set the brake control hot so it will help you straighten back out....

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Edit to add..... that I see the bumper has more structure than a plate alone, but if an improvement was noticed that would mean there was deflection in the cross member. If this was the case, I would expect to see some stress cracks. Since the bumper still ties to those points I would inspect it closely.

Just looking out... Happy Jeeping

Last edited by jnabird333; 08-29-2014 at 09:55 AM.
Old 08-29-2014, 10:22 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jnabird333
I just can't wrap my head around why a receiver welded to a 3/16" plate is considered stronger than the crossmember that is boxed. Even though it is made of a lighter gauge metal the boxing in conjunction with the hardening from being stamped is far stronger than even a 1/4" plate. (I've run the stress analysis) Another thing to consider for those of you that are towing heavy loads: 99% of the brake controllers on the market are reactive, not proactive. They react to the inertia shift of the pulling vehicle's brakes being applied and then begin to ramp up the current to the brakes on the trailer. This means that every stop is initiated by the tow vehicle. In a panic stop, the trailer brakes may not have even reacted and the short wheelbase Jeep has begun to jack-knife. If you plan to do this at least set the brake control hot so it will help you straighten back out.... ------------------------ Edit to add..... that I see the bumper has more structure than a plate alone, but if an improvement was noticed that would mean there was deflection in the cross member. If this was the case, I would expect to see some stress cracks. Since the bumper still ties to those points I would inspect it closely. Just looking out... Happy Jeeping
My brake controller is the Prodigy 2. It has three boost levels to control how much voltage goes to the trailer brakes the instant the brake pedal is pushed. This is in addition to the inertia sensor built in. I am an engineer, but have not run stress calculations. I can tell you there certainly is a difference with the new bumper. Even my wife sitting in the passenger seat notices an improvement when hitting bumps, holes, and expansion joints. I agree this means that previously my weight distribution hitch was resulting in a torsion moment on the cross member. Tying into the new welded structure eliminates or at least significantly reduces the torsional movement

Last edited by rob_engineer; 08-29-2014 at 10:41 AM.
Old 02-12-2015, 02:54 PM
  #23  
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Hey Rob,

Just wanted to give you a shout out for all your help, I finally got my XRC on with the 7-pin and backup camera drilled, installed and ready to tow. Looking forward to pulling it out and seeing how it does over the stock hitch.

Thanks again!
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:39 PM
  #24  
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Nice job! I like the thought of the camera. I may do less towing these days. Picked up a giant motorhome to use instead of the toyhauler.
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:04 PM
  #25  
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Lots of bad information on why the low tow rating with people giving their opinions. My thanks to the engineers that posted above the stress/failure analysis that confirms my own conversation with a jeep engineer that the frame and attachment points are up to a 5,000 rating. My gosh, I've stalled a 9,000lbs winch pulling from my hitch.

It does not have the tow rating primarily for liability. It will overheat pulling through the desert and can't maintain speed in Davis dam and I70 out of CO. DCX rated it low for dummies.

Brakes have ZERO to do with it. If this were the case, no vehicle should tow over 5,000lbs. For reference, wheelbase is longer than a grand Cherokee and longer AND wider than a Liberty. Yet they both tow 5,000lbs+?? Yet their brakes are similar in spec? The JK's brakes are superior to the old ZJ which was rated up to ~6,500lbs.

So please, spout facts, not fiction.

That being said, I recommend you tow no more than the factory recommends. If you do tow 5k, I personally don't think you will explode or die.

Fyi, if in an accident and you are towing over the limit, will be no issue. Your carrier has a duty to defend, perhaps under a reservation of rights, but they will. It's liability insurance and is to cover YOUR stupidity. Now there may be an exclusion, condition, or limitation that could preclude coverage for Your Own vehicle, but that's not the argument being made. Argument was about a civil proceeding for damages someone sustained because of your negligence, not theirs. Your carrier will work to resolve with in the limits of your policy, in the event you unwisely carry state minimums, they could just stroke a check, give to the courts, and let the claimants duke it out. They could come at you for the excess, but that is the exception and not the norm.

Sent from some string and a few tin cans.



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