New Brake Pads
#1
JK Enthusiast
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New Brake Pads
Ok, she's got 42K miles on her. She's at the stealership getting an "evap pump solenoid" replaced and the gas tank TSB work done on her, but the rear brakes need replacement. Soooo.....
What kind of pads--ceramic, carbon-metallic? OEM (have no idea what kind those are)?
Good place to get them? Qtec? Northridge (Dave, I'll be ordering those LoD sliders from you in the next week!)??
Haven't seen any threads on the different kinds of pads. I don't wheel to hard, and I like it that whatever the OEM pads are, there isn't a whole lot of dust. I have an '08 Sahara Unlimited.
What kind of pads--ceramic, carbon-metallic? OEM (have no idea what kind those are)?
Good place to get them? Qtec? Northridge (Dave, I'll be ordering those LoD sliders from you in the next week!)??
Haven't seen any threads on the different kinds of pads. I don't wheel to hard, and I like it that whatever the OEM pads are, there isn't a whole lot of dust. I have an '08 Sahara Unlimited.
#3
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ottawa ON
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Lifetime pads are harder on rotors I find than OEM ones, though some of those tend to leave a lot of dust. Get some decent, but not over the top set for the rear, you're going to change them half as often as the front anyways, unless there is a issue with the brakes.
I'd also have a look at your own brakes too and make your own call. If the metal backing is the same thickness as the brake pad surface, then you're at 50% and should change them soon. Use the inside pad as your guide since this one wears faster. Don't bother with rotors unless they look pitted or have a lip of rust and metal around the outside where the pad doesn't make contact. Dealerships LOVE brake jobs cause the markup on parts is insane and the techs can do the job quickly.
I'd also have a look at your own brakes too and make your own call. If the metal backing is the same thickness as the brake pad surface, then you're at 50% and should change them soon. Use the inside pad as your guide since this one wears faster. Don't bother with rotors unless they look pitted or have a lip of rust and metal around the outside where the pad doesn't make contact. Dealerships LOVE brake jobs cause the markup on parts is insane and the techs can do the job quickly.
#4
JK Junkie
Phantom is very right.
I got some pads at a local Napa and they work great. The markup is definitely insane too, the stealer can always make the most ridiculously easy repair cost hundreds of dollars. Takes longer to get the JK up in the air than to do a brake job.
By all means, do what fits your needs, but some of those 60 dollar brake pads I can't see it. 30 for the rear and 40 for the front, I can deal with that.
Don't forget to bleed it all out too starting at the right rear tire
I got some pads at a local Napa and they work great. The markup is definitely insane too, the stealer can always make the most ridiculously easy repair cost hundreds of dollars. Takes longer to get the JK up in the air than to do a brake job.
By all means, do what fits your needs, but some of those 60 dollar brake pads I can't see it. 30 for the rear and 40 for the front, I can deal with that.
Don't forget to bleed it all out too starting at the right rear tire
#5
My brakes must be FUBAR then. I replaced all four at 27k. The front were hardly worn and sit in a box as backups to my lifetime pads. The back were nearly gone. I attributed the rear wear as a byproduct of the ESP system with brake assisted steering (BAS). Maybe I should have my stealership look into the operation of my system to be safe.
#7
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Heard good things about those though they are a little less common I think up here in the great white north......I think what sa29560 means is start with your rears first, the fluid is a little easier to get the caliper pistons back in I find in the back of any vehicle, might just be because the piston can be smaller. You're not actually bleeding the fluid from the bleeder screw unless you are changing out any major parts, ie: master cylinder, new caliper, brake line.
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#9
JK Jedi Master
I think that you meant the other way around. The rears will go out quickly--replaced mine at 65K miles or so (that is quick for me), and at 75K miles the fronts still look great. Same for most recent model vehicles, BTW. It's caused by the computer using the rear brakes a lot for vehicle control.