My rear brake job from hell.
#11
JK Jedi Master
I did my rear brakes a few weeks ago at 170K miles. I had a problem with a caliper pin frozen in place I discovered after putting back together. So, ordered part through O'Reilly's, picked up next day, pulled apart again, and put back together. Everything went smoothly, otherwise. I'm speculating that difference may be that Oklahoma doesn't use much salt on roads--and I don't drive in saltwater (I shudder every time I see someone posting pictures doing that. I lived on Guam for over a year and know what even salt air can do to a vehicle.).
As for e-brake: Yeah, no worry for me. Mine hasn't worked properly for over 100K miles despite being completely rebuilt. I give up on the piece of junk.
As for e-brake: Yeah, no worry for me. Mine hasn't worked properly for over 100K miles despite being completely rebuilt. I give up on the piece of junk.
Last edited by Mark Doiron; 09-24-2015 at 01:23 AM.
#12
I can see your pictures on my iPhone. They're small but I can open them up.
#13
brakes
At 125k miles it was finally time for me to replace my brakes. I went with the ebay slotted and drilled (I know, overkill and not good if you offroad) with ceramic pads. After reading posts and watching youtube vids I knew I'd be in for a world of fun given I live in NH where we cover our roads with salt in the winter.
Before starting the job I took the Jeep out and pulled the ebrake going 5 mph until I came to a stop hoping this would help loosen things up. No idea if it helped but I think it did.
And to get the rear rotors off I was told to hit it head on with the BFH and not from the back. To my surprise it wasn't terribly tough to brake the rust ring and the rotors came off after several good wacks going in a typical star pattern. When I put it all back together I ran anti-seize un the inside where the rotor seats around the hub in hopes that if they ever need to come off again it will be quite easy.
As for the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from ebay ($185 for all 4) I couldn't be happier. The brakes work better than the stockers and they are very quiet.
Before starting the job I took the Jeep out and pulled the ebrake going 5 mph until I came to a stop hoping this would help loosen things up. No idea if it helped but I think it did.
And to get the rear rotors off I was told to hit it head on with the BFH and not from the back. To my surprise it wasn't terribly tough to brake the rust ring and the rotors came off after several good wacks going in a typical star pattern. When I put it all back together I ran anti-seize un the inside where the rotor seats around the hub in hopes that if they ever need to come off again it will be quite easy.
As for the drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from ebay ($185 for all 4) I couldn't be happier. The brakes work better than the stockers and they are very quiet.
#14
I had to do all 4 wheels last fall. Front RH caliper was seizing so did both. Then rears made noise and ebrake stopped working. Had to replace EVERYTHING. Ebrake pads were $120!!! More than I paid for the 2rotors, pads, and new hardware. Yes adjusting the ebrake is a pita but I tightened the pads to the point I couldn't get the rotor on without a rubber mallet then adjusted it tighter. They rubbed for awhile but now my ebrake pulls 4or5 clicks. A brake spring tool from Harbor Freight made things easier. Best $5 I've spent on a tool. http://m.harborfreight.com/spring-hook.html
Ohh all this was at 53000. Previous owner let the jeep sit for months at a time.
Ohh all this was at 53000. Previous owner let the jeep sit for months at a time.
#16