odin725

well, looks like i sheared both sides of the pin in my spider gears in my rear end. now i have to decide what to do.

Option 1 is i found a good deal (not far from here) on a set of used rubi front and rear with 4.88,e-lockers and such.just bolt them up.
or i can
buy some ARB lockers for my front and back(D30 and D44)regear it with 5.13's and maybe upgrade the shafts. but if i go this route i will have to do the work myself.I haven't ever replaced gears in a rear end but i have acess to all the tools that would be needed and i am no stranger to the wrench.

so what does everyone think?

BTW not sure if this should be in the stock or modded section??the stock part is what broke but i'm asking about mods.oh well i'm sure some one will move it if they feel the need


here is some pics looks like the only that is damaged is the pinion gear and ofcourse the spider gears

Dylanjam77

What I think is that sucks man.... Gotta ask just how did you go about doing this to your gears?!?!?

Don't be afraid of doing it yourself especially since you have access to all the right tools. Guess it depends on how "good of a deal" on the Rubi gears.

What do you think you will want to change on your rig down the road? Will that make a difference to your decision now?

Good luck with either way you decide to go.

km2jk

I would go for the 44's. You can gusset the C's and truss it before you put it in. Just add some chromoly shafts later and it should last forever. Your stock axle already broke, so why not upgrade everything rather than put more money into it?

berg

This may sound stupid but if your JK is still under warranty can't you have it fixed at the dealer? Or, are you so heavily modified that the dealer would refuse warranty work?

Or is this just a chance for an upgrade?

odin725

the only thing that is broke as of right now is my open diff.(spider gears) at least that i know of. i will open it back up tomorrow and check out everything else.

as to how i did this well that could be a long story. a while back i got water in my rear end and caused a bearing to go out. i did find a dealership to replace the bearings for me under warranty. then less than 1200 miles later my diff gernaded. i did go on a wheeling trip during this time nothing to extreme but some hard wheeling, nothing that i would think should cause this. Plus i drove home 200 miles with no problems. then about a week later(did have some ice on the roads for a couple of days) i started hearing a clicking noise and could feel a slight slip in it along with a clank. So i drove it 15 mi. or so to the dealer and thats when they told me what was wrong. i have it home now and will it have to sit for about a month either way i go.


i does suck kinda but now i get to upgrade and my wife can't say NO.

the dealer said that D/C said there is no way that they will warranty it because of the 35" tires.

cub23

Oh she can say NO but it would probably do no good.I got that wire today it cost me

odin725

you are right,but she would never say no if it needs to be done.(and she can see it needs to be done).now when i tell her i need a new rear bumber with tire carrier she says no.I guess i will just have to break my tailgate off.

greenjeep

I would go on ahead and upgrade unless the Rubi gears are too good to pass on. Or, tell your wife that the upgraded gears are xx amount of dollars, buy the rubi gears and with the extra cash, buy some more mods-thats how i roll!

cub23

Kinda sneaky I like it.

RedneckJeep

I remember when I was a kid, we used to take our parents' cars and get a wheel goin around a turn. Thought it was cool Those right rears would just go up in smoke. Especially my friend's father's 1970 Chevy Impala with that 300 horse 350. Little did we know then, but learned later on what damage we could have been in the differential area. A standard open differential is designed to let one wheel spin if it looses traction. It's just nuts, I know, but that's how it works. Let that wheel get in some mud or ice and there she goes. What happens inside the differential is another story. The side gears on the axles are twice as large as the little pinion gears that they engage with. When one axle is allowed to spin while the other is held still, those pinion gears spin twice as fast as the side gears on the axles. Although the differential IS designed to do this.....it's not supposed to do it long term. Such as burning tires around turns, or being stuck in the mud trying to get out. Imagine the heat buildup between those pinion gears and pinion shaft. It's tremendous. Piss one of them off, and it locks itself onto the pinion shaft. Now, you have the entire pinion shaft spinning in the carrier. Hardened steel spinning at high speed against cast iron.....with NO type of bearing or bushing. Ouch. Yup, sooner or later, the pinion shaft gets pissed off, too and locks to the carrier. Then, snapperoonty. You need to think back to before you heard any noise. Chances are that when you were "wheeling hard" you wheeled a little too hard with just one wheel spinnin. Hell, if it was mine, I'd try to warranty it and hope their gear man ain't as experienced as I am. LOL He might not know what caused it.