My fix for transfer case cable
#11
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cmp: look just above front driveshaft where it come out of T case edit: it's tight
For my fix I removed lever from case(10mm wrench), ground off back side of tit, used a punch to pop it out of lever, the resulting hole is roughly 1/4" so I drilled it out to 5/16
It helps to have a lift and $30K of snap on tools to play with
For my fix I removed lever from case(10mm wrench), ground off back side of tit, used a punch to pop it out of lever, the resulting hole is roughly 1/4" so I drilled it out to 5/16
It helps to have a lift and $30K of snap on tools to play with
#13
JK Super Freak
cmp: look just above front driveshaft where it come out of T case edit: it's tight
For my fix I removed lever from case(10mm wrench), ground off back side of tit, used a punch to pop it out of lever, the resulting hole is roughly 1/4" so I drilled it out to 5/16
It helps to have a lift and $30K of snap on tools to play with
For my fix I removed lever from case(10mm wrench), ground off back side of tit, used a punch to pop it out of lever, the resulting hole is roughly 1/4" so I drilled it out to 5/16
It helps to have a lift and $30K of snap on tools to play with
#16
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Hi Folks,
I think I see a groove in the shaft? Why wouldn't a stainless steel "C-clip" work in place of the plastic? I haven't gotten under SARA (my JK) yet but C-clips are frequently used in industrial machine applications and it appears that it would work here. They are cheap, easy to install, and require no shaft modifications if I'm reading the picture correctly. Let me know if this is a viable fix...Thanks... Mike
I think I see a groove in the shaft? Why wouldn't a stainless steel "C-clip" work in place of the plastic? I haven't gotten under SARA (my JK) yet but C-clips are frequently used in industrial machine applications and it appears that it would work here. They are cheap, easy to install, and require no shaft modifications if I'm reading the picture correctly. Let me know if this is a viable fix...Thanks... Mike
#17
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I think any type of cotter pin,clip or whatever you use to hold cable on will work fine IF factory clip is still intact, the factory clip fills the gap between lever and cable end, w/o clip there's a lot of play in cable, feels like mushy shifter... my particular fix used something I had in my junk drawer to fix a sorry factory design... AND if it fails on the trail all I need is a nut and bolt to secure
I'd love to ask a Jeep engineer who came up with this
I'd love to ask a Jeep engineer who came up with this