Lots of snow...lets talk recovery.
02-03-2011, 05:16 PM
#11
02-05-2011, 07:49 AM
#13
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ORW has a pretty cool recovery package.
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/prod...roductID/51584
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/prod...roductID/51584
02-10-2011, 12:01 PM
#14
x2 winch is usually the best option in my opinion
02-10-2011, 12:14 PM
#15
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02-10-2011, 08:03 PM
#16
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02-10-2011, 08:09 PM
#17
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This kind of mud...
"Mona Lisa Vito: It's a limited slip differential which distributes power equally to both the right and left tires. The '64 Skylark had a regular differential, which, anyone who's been stuck in the mud in Alabama knows, you step on the gas, one tire spins, the other tire does nothing."
"Mona Lisa Vito: It's a limited slip differential which distributes power equally to both the right and left tires. The '64 Skylark had a regular differential, which, anyone who's been stuck in the mud in Alabama knows, you step on the gas, one tire spins, the other tire does nothing."
02-11-2011, 02:39 AM
#18
JK Jedi Master
Mark's thoughts on vehicle recovery:
1. Don't use a chain. A chain is to be used only as a device to wrap around parts of the vehicle that might cut a strap, then the chain is secured to the strap by putting a proper bowline knot in the chain and using its hook to "tie" it off. Hook a loop of the strap through that.
2. Don't ever tie in to a trailer hitch ball--it could come off and become a dangerous projectile. Instead, if you don't have a proper recovery point, remove the hitch ball and use the hitch pin through the tow strap loop.
3. Never use a tow strap with metal hooks. Those shouldn't even be sold. If it comes free, that hook may take off someone's head.
4. Ditto for securing two tow straps together. Tie them. You can hook them loop over loop, but you may be making a permanent knot. I've unsuccessfully untied one after a very hard recovery, but it took tools and patience to get it undone.
5. Drop the tow rope loop around the available recovery hook on the vehicle, as well as on your vehicle. Or use a shackle to attach it to a proper point on the vehicle bumper, or a proper point in the 2" receiver hitch (if available). It's not necessary to overtighten the shackels. In fact, once it stops turning, back off a quarter turn or so to ensure it doesn't lock up and require tools for removal (usually a screwdriver through a hole in the shackle pin is all that's required if it does).
6. If the stuck vehicle does not have visible recovery points, then someone will need to crawl underneath and select a point to recover. Although all vehicles are required by law to have slots in their frames/undercarriage for tying the vehicle down, it requires special gear to use those. And, they are not designed for pulling vehicles out. But, if you're really enthusiastic about vehicle recovery, buy one of the special recovery harnesses that hook into these. Tow trucks carry them and they run about $55-100. You then hook your tow strap into that for recovery. And pull gently--these slots deform easily! Regardless, do remember that during a vehicle recovery, there are plenty of YouTube videos of people pulling apart a stuck vehicle. Some have been posted. In one I recall that they decided to snatch recover a stuck 4x4 by the axle (don't ask me why he didn't have proper recovery points). They recovered the axle. The rest of the vehicle is probably still stuck in the mud pit they left it in. ALWAYS OPT FOR THE EASIEST, MOST GENTLE RECOVERY YOU CAN SUCCEED AT! And let the other person do their own hook-up if at all possible. just in case something goes awry.
7. If the vehicle doesn't come out easily with a simple tug, look at how the vehicle is mired. If there is snow blocking the wheels, someone should dig it out for a few feet in the direction of travel so that you can get some forward momentum going. Also, if the person in the other vehicle is trying to help by spinning his tires, remind him to let you pull and that he should not get on the gas--both because he's probably just digging a deeper hole, and because if he digs it to pavement, he just may come shooting out of their so fast that he rear ends you! Finally, a couple pieces of wood placed under the driven axle can give something to give the stuck vehicle traction. It may be necessary to dig under the tires, then use a sledge hammer/axe hammer to drive the boards under each tire. These can come out at a fast speed, so make sure no one is close by that can become injured (shouldn't be anyone within reach of the tow rope length, anyway).
8. Snatch strap recoveries/winch recoveries: Without proper gear to hook into on the stuck vehicle, these are risky. I personally avoid them, preferring the better control that I have with a tow rope recovery. This has meant in the past that I spent a couple hours digging out mud to recover one very stuck Chevy sedan--but it also meant that I didn't yank his rear axle out from under his very stuck vehicle.
1. Don't use a chain. A chain is to be used only as a device to wrap around parts of the vehicle that might cut a strap, then the chain is secured to the strap by putting a proper bowline knot in the chain and using its hook to "tie" it off. Hook a loop of the strap through that.
2. Don't ever tie in to a trailer hitch ball--it could come off and become a dangerous projectile. Instead, if you don't have a proper recovery point, remove the hitch ball and use the hitch pin through the tow strap loop.
3. Never use a tow strap with metal hooks. Those shouldn't even be sold. If it comes free, that hook may take off someone's head.
4. Ditto for securing two tow straps together. Tie them. You can hook them loop over loop, but you may be making a permanent knot. I've unsuccessfully untied one after a very hard recovery, but it took tools and patience to get it undone.
5. Drop the tow rope loop around the available recovery hook on the vehicle, as well as on your vehicle. Or use a shackle to attach it to a proper point on the vehicle bumper, or a proper point in the 2" receiver hitch (if available). It's not necessary to overtighten the shackels. In fact, once it stops turning, back off a quarter turn or so to ensure it doesn't lock up and require tools for removal (usually a screwdriver through a hole in the shackle pin is all that's required if it does).
6. If the stuck vehicle does not have visible recovery points, then someone will need to crawl underneath and select a point to recover. Although all vehicles are required by law to have slots in their frames/undercarriage for tying the vehicle down, it requires special gear to use those. And, they are not designed for pulling vehicles out. But, if you're really enthusiastic about vehicle recovery, buy one of the special recovery harnesses that hook into these. Tow trucks carry them and they run about $55-100. You then hook your tow strap into that for recovery. And pull gently--these slots deform easily! Regardless, do remember that during a vehicle recovery, there are plenty of YouTube videos of people pulling apart a stuck vehicle. Some have been posted. In one I recall that they decided to snatch recover a stuck 4x4 by the axle (don't ask me why he didn't have proper recovery points). They recovered the axle. The rest of the vehicle is probably still stuck in the mud pit they left it in. ALWAYS OPT FOR THE EASIEST, MOST GENTLE RECOVERY YOU CAN SUCCEED AT! And let the other person do their own hook-up if at all possible. just in case something goes awry.
7. If the vehicle doesn't come out easily with a simple tug, look at how the vehicle is mired. If there is snow blocking the wheels, someone should dig it out for a few feet in the direction of travel so that you can get some forward momentum going. Also, if the person in the other vehicle is trying to help by spinning his tires, remind him to let you pull and that he should not get on the gas--both because he's probably just digging a deeper hole, and because if he digs it to pavement, he just may come shooting out of their so fast that he rear ends you! Finally, a couple pieces of wood placed under the driven axle can give something to give the stuck vehicle traction. It may be necessary to dig under the tires, then use a sledge hammer/axe hammer to drive the boards under each tire. These can come out at a fast speed, so make sure no one is close by that can become injured (shouldn't be anyone within reach of the tow rope length, anyway).
8. Snatch strap recoveries/winch recoveries: Without proper gear to hook into on the stuck vehicle, these are risky. I personally avoid them, preferring the better control that I have with a tow rope recovery. This has meant in the past that I spent a couple hours digging out mud to recover one very stuck Chevy sedan--but it also meant that I didn't yank his rear axle out from under his very stuck vehicle.
Last edited by Mark Doiron; 02-11-2011 at 02:41 AM.
02-11-2011, 04:17 AM
#20
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Mark's thoughts on vehicle recovery:
1. Don't use a chain. A chain is to be used only as a device to wrap around parts of the vehicle that might cut a strap, then the chain is secured to the strap by putting a proper bowline knot in the chain and using its hook to "tie" it off.
1. Don't use a chain. A chain is to be used only as a device to wrap around parts of the vehicle that might cut a strap, then the chain is secured to the strap by putting a proper bowline knot in the chain and using its hook to "tie" it off.
