yo_marc

I'll need to pull up my Saharas specs for the thread. This has been pretty enlightening for me.

Something I wanted to mention. I believe the longer/stiffer spring is used on the passenger front, not because of the gas tank, but because of the camber of North American roads.

I had learned that alignment specs for cars commonly call for different specs between the two front wheels, for the same purpose.

I had all kinds of trouble getting an old sport truck of mine to handle right. It was because it was lowered and I had it running heavy anti-sway bars. It rode so flat that it needed a uniform alignment up front. That truck (from the factory) also had different ride heights from left front to right front.

Grimmjpr

Ok I'll Help out.

1 - Rubicon 2 door
2 - Hardtop only, with tow pkg, 5 speed auto
3 - Front springs..both are 52126314AC
4 - Rear springs..both are 68004257AA
5 - Front shocks 05168186AC Red/Rear shocks 05168188AC Red
6 - 4th Digit of VIN is B???? Door sticker says GVWR 5100 LBS
7 - 2012 MFG date 8-2011

Tiger3

I finally received my 4dr JKU Rubicon Shocks and Springs. Shipped to me from the U.S.. I got these off e-bay for $200 and $65 shipping! I swapped from 14/56 springs to 18/59 on my 2dr. Shocks were also changed.

It took 6 hours. I took my time of course so I did not screw anything up. All around looks like I got 1.5" lift from this. I had a full tank of gas too. The fenders were all about 3' (36 inches) from the floor. Springs now 18/59. So now for the pictures....
BEFORE:

AFTER:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Measurement from floor to front step behind tire.

After

Rear Step from floor (line on step is just above 17 inch mark)

Rear Step After

Fender measured from floor Before:

AFTER:

Rear Fender Before:

After:


Most fenders went from 36 inches to 37+ inches. The right side of the jeep was lower due to gas tank of course. The steering wheel did not change from what I can tell. Driving is fine, but I will get a wheel alignment next week to make sure. It was pulling slightly to the left anyway when letting go of the steering. Ride is now firm and the squat and yaw I had accelerating and braking is reduced to a great degree. So far I like it. I got my JKS Quick discos installed, but I was beat after that so I did not take pics, will get some later.

Sorry, for so many pics and their quality is not what I would like to have had.

MikekiM

I am hoping to help the database and get some help with what to do next...

1 - Sport 2 Door
2 - Born with Soft Top only
3 - Front springs..both are 52126314AC
4 - Rear springs..both are 68004255AA
5 - Front & Rear Shocks are the same 68028455AB, black
6 - 4th Digit of VIN is A, Door sticker says GVWR 4900 LBS
7 - 2011 MFG date 02/2011

No tow package... actually, no options at all. 6 speed.


While I currently have and use the dual tops and the hard top is on most of the time, the JK was built with a soft top. The dealer added the Freedom top at my request.

I understand the limitations of the stock Sport shocks and would like to upgrade them. Staying with OE components would be preferable just to keep the dealer happy. I already have a TF Leveling kit and would like to gain a little lift, firm up the ride and reduce dive & squat. Sounds like the Rubi JKU springs and shocks are what I am looking for.

Try as I might, with so many pages in this post I am having a tough time figuring out what my next move is so any help you can offer is appreciated... If I am understanding this, I have 14/55's which would tell me the Rubi JKU springs at 18 or 19/60 would be a step in the right direction towards my goals. Though with the leveling kit in, I don't want the nose higher than the rear.

That said, will adding the Rubi springs leave me vulnerable to needing DS adjustments or other mods to keep things in order? I have the TF sway bar links, but other than the TF spacers that's all I have done so far.

JKduke86

So I've decided to go with the 19/60 setup and am going to order them brand new. But I want to go ahead and switch over to the rubi shocks as well and found some take offs for a good price. Does anybody know if the shocks off a 2012 are the same as the 2009? As well as the part numbers for the rubi shocks? Thanks

MikekiM

Even considering I have the leveling kit in?

I am wondering if the leveling kit will be redundant and/or ultimately leave the nose higher than the rear.

jhol111964

It might help, that I measured before/after with an empty/full tank of fuel, and got about 1/4" difference. A full tank should weigh around 125 lb. A hardtop weighs around 150 lb, and sits about the same as the gas tank in relation to the springs, so you might expect about 1/4" additional deflection with a hard top.

DirtyDi

Definitely go with the 19/60's, if you want the max ride height. Rubi shocks will help with the ride quality for sure! You'll get a couple inches, maybe more, with 'em! If you're thinking of loading up the front with new bumper, maybe a winch, a 3/4 level will work out fine. Did my Rubi that way and she's perfect!

MikekiM

Thanks..

Long term plan is for a winch in the stock bumper that I just stubbied. Not likely to change the rear bumper.

Do I understand correctly that you are suggesting the 19/60's and using only one of the TF spring pucks?

DirtyDi

Definitely go with the 19/60 combo. I used a 3/4" leveling kit so I'd think that's all you'd need. If the pucks are any bigger, your nose might be higher than your rear... And with the MPG's already horrible, that might have you at the pumps a little more often! :-) if you access to the Rubi shocks, go with those too. I've not experienced the ride without 'em but from what people have said on this thread, they are night and day! Good luck!