Chainsawjames

Anyone else had the power wire break off of the rear window (the one that connects to the defrost wires in the window)? Wondering if I could reattach it somehow.

calemasters

Here is repair solution I found on the web:

Repair Suggestion
Soldering Defroster Contact Tabs
In many cases the terminal tab will still be in the connector when you examine the vehicle.

In most applications it is preferable to create a new solder connection to reattach a separated rear defroster tab. If you take note of the steps below, it is possible to create a new solder joint that is equal to, or stronger than, the original. The generic procedure below is not very time intensive, but does include minor preparation work to create a good bonding surface. Be sure to follow each of the steps, as combined they will produce the strongest bond possible. Please consider the following before attempting the repair:

• Soldering introduces significant heat to the glass window of the vehicle. When performing the re-connection of the tab, use only the heat required to do the job. Pre-heat the soldering iron and have the solder in your other hand, ready to go, the moment you have enough heat to melt the solder.

• If it is winter, bring the vehicle into the service garage and remove any snow from the back window area. Allow time for the glass to warm to the temperature inside the building. Soldering creates a "hot spot" in the glass. DO NOT solder on cold glass.


Caution: Heating the glass excessively, or repeatedly without time to cool, may result in glass breakage. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when performing this repair!


• You MUST use a silver-bearing solder to make the connection. DO NOT attempt this repair with conventional tin/lead alloy solders. Silver bearing solder will adhere to the electrical buss bar, making a strong and lasting repair.

• Protect surfaces under the area to be soldered. It is very easy to drip solder when performing this repair. Pacing a shop towel under the soldering area is sufficient protection.

Soldering Procedure
It is imperative to remove and replace the rear defroster electrical power connector by crimping a new connector to the feed wire.
• Insert pick to depress the locking tab on the terminal.

• Insert i pick to release the secondary lock tab.

Connect the electrical connector to the defroster tab. Fully engage the connector. An improperly seated connector may cause excessive resistance and impede the proper operation of the defroster. Add a small bead of solder to mate the electrical connector tab to the defroster tab.



Prepare the surface of the used defroster tab (not required for new tabs on new-style full-size utility models) and the defroster buss bar with fine grain (500 grit) sandpaper or Emery cloth. It is not necessary to remove all of the original solder, but it should be scuffed sufficiently so that no oxidation is present. The photo above shows a close up of a properly prepared surface.
Tip
You may want to mask the glass around the contact area with tape. This is easy to do and will allow you to safely prepare the contact surface without the risk of scratching the glass or the black painted shading.

Wipe the newly prepared contact area with Kent Automotive* Acrysol™ (or equivalent) to remove any residual oil or dirt.

Important: You MUST use a silver-bearing solder to make the solder joint. DO NOT attempt this repair with conventional tin/lead alloy solders. Most suppliers have this type of solder available and it is available nationally at Radio Shack®*. It is sold in several diameters and either are acceptable for this repair.

For this step, it is permitted that two technicians be used if required. Heat the new connector on the surface of the buss bar that is to be soldered. Long nose pliers are suggested to hold the electrical connector and the defroster tab in place. Keep the solder ready and begin flowing out the solder as soon as the melting temperature has been reached.
Tip
If a single technician is attempting this repair, it is beneficial to wrap one turn of the solder around the new contacts base. In this manner, as the melting point of the solder is reached, a layer is deposited on the bottom side of the contact.

Important: Try to align the new contact so that it is positioned with the same orientation as the original contact.

JINGLES

I used to manage body shops; and I think I remember that there used to be an epoxy (lead metal infused) that the glass shops used to reattach the wire connector. Try calling the stealership parts dept for availability. If they have it; then call local auto parts stores, it will probably be cheaper.

JKJeremy

i had the same thing happen to mine...the autostore sells a rear defroster repair kit that is supposed to work and is a glue type application, no soldering...you have to do the work when the temperature is above 50 degrees though so good luck with that during the winter...at any rate i did it and the repair literally took ten minutes and it worked fine for four days and has now stopped working so i'm interested if anyone out there has any ideas on this topic as well...i have yet to check the fuse though, i'm hoping that's all it is...

JKJeremy

just came across this in another thread on the same topic...this website sells a tab repair kit and seems to be tad more reputable than the kit that i bought at the autostore which was kind of an all-in-one repair kit that didn't cost a whole lot and also seemed to focus a lot more attention on the repair to the grid and the tab repair was added as an afterthought to the kit...this website has alot of information on it, so if i check the fuse and it's o.k. i'm likely gonna order one of their tab repair kits and redo the process come spring time...

http://frostfighter.com/index.htm

JKJeremy

if it's under warranty than sure go that route but if not then i don't consider this a bullet wound per se, merely a flesh wound...

that being said, anyone know what fuse controls the rear defrost...i checked the fuse box lid chart and none of them were called rear defrost or similar that i could tell...i might have missed it but just thought i would ask in case one of the more electrically inclined on this here forum knew... thanks

jalapino

Go to your neighborhood electric supply and pick up some electric solder paste. Follow the instructions and make sure you wait at least 24hrs before you re-attach the tab to the button.