VEGASROBBI

You can bypass the starter relay, relays with bypass buttons are also available. Ron can show you where the realy is in the TIPM, it is on the front outer edge of the TIPM, the relay in the middle position of the three relays. If you attached floss to the realy be sure to not tug on it with the engine running or it will engage and grind. I am always bumping on things I shouldn't be so the string method is not for me.



The TRS bypass uses a button in the cab(see photo). The button is normally open, when pressed it closes the contacts and supplies a Park signal to the ECM allowing it to crank. Two caveats:

Use a momentary switch, if you leave the switch engaged and shift out of Park you will go into PRNDL error and the transmission will not shift properly. Some 2011's have a different wire to tap into on connector 3.

When pressed the engine will crank in any gear so be sure it is in Park, this applies to the floss method also.

We install the switch under the column in case of emergency. I had one customer in Canada use the bypass 14 times on his trip when his TRS went out.

Here in the shop we simply turn the ignition on and jump terminals starter relay 30 to 87 with a jumper wire to start and that is what I do on the trail rather than use a bypass, but not everyone knows exactly what to jump and you can damage something if not done properly.

We have a bypass relay with a button on the top here in the shop, so when it is pressed the engine cranks; however, if you close the TIPM lid it will depress the button causing it to crank, so if you get a bypass relay get one with the button on the side.

ronjenx

catahoula

A fellow member helped me out a while ago and this worked. There is a yellow pull tab in fuse box. Pull it up let it sit for a few minutes then push it down. It reboots the computer and everything. Not a problem since.

You can see it in ronjenx's pic post above.

VEGASROBBI

That's the IOD fuse which removes power from most of the modules for shipping, storage or computer reset.

It will reset a locked up WCM or SKEEM but will not correct a mechanical failure.

catahoula

When I had my problem all lights worked, tried to crank and it at first sounded like the starter. Though it might be worth a try...does not cost anything except a few moments of ones time.

VEGASROBBI

It's worth a try.

Here's a bypass relay.

VEGASROBBI

These are the terminals you jump if in a pinch.

NYC885

This is excellent info, thanks!

I'm having an intermittent problem that just started (no pun intended!) that I think is different from a TIPM sensor issue and I was just about to post a thread looking for thoughts.

Jeep turns over once then nothing. Almost like a bad battery. May happen a few times in a row, then cranks perfectly and starts.

Any thoughts? And would this technique be a good emergency solve, or is my problem symptomatic of a bad starter?

[also strange is that the word 'oil' was lit on the dash - oil is clean and topped up - probably because I didn't reset the light on the last change]

If anyone has any thoughts it'd be greatly appreciated!!

NICU

Check your battery terminals that connect the battery post to the wire harness. On both the positive and ground. I just had a problem with mine. My jeep would try and turn over but it seemed like I had no power. But my lights and power windows had power. It ended up being that little brass p.o.s. That Chrysler put on the battery. The bottom half was broke cause of corrosion. And clean your terminals it will help. Corrosion is not your friend.

NYC885

Thanks. I checked and cleaned all of the battery terminals just in case, but everything looked good. No corrosion and nice and tight.

Based on the fact that it only turned over once, that this happened a few times in a row, and then it cranked and started (and happened the same way since), what could it be symptomatic of?

Note that it was very hot out..

Starter issue maybe?