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Intermittant Rough Idle PLUS choking out during driving

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Old 09-04-2012, 02:24 PM
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Default Intermittant Rough Idle PLUS choking out during driving

Hi guys, just made a relocation back to the NW 2 weeks ago and during the drive (about arizona) my 2007 jk with 60k miles started having hesitations while driving. The best way to describe the hesitation is assume that when you aren't pushing on the accelerator thats 0% and to the floor board is 100%. While driving, if the accelerator is depressed between roughly 30% - 70% the truck begins to lurch and almost choke itself out. As long as i keep it out of that range its fine. I continued driving, while monitoring things, all the way till Portland. I did some reading and came to a conclusion of it being a bad TPS and that i needed to replace the throttle body (since the tps is part of the unit). So i did that last wednesday, and everything seemed fine for about 10 minutes then went back to its illness. I drove it more and haven't been able to figure out since. I changed the spark plugs about a week before we moved with autolites (double checked and yes the correct models). I pulled them after the relocation and they were all normal wear and proper gaps. all the plug wires seem perfectly fine, the airbox is clean; same as the air filter. I did notice when i pulled the throttle body that there was oil lined inside however i've read thats common place for jeeps. Nothing is leaking anywhere, nothing is out of place or concerning except when the truck is turned on and parked, i hear a clicking (almost a sparking sound). No codes have thrown, and i have ran out of ideas as far as my knowledge of things and absolutely despise stealerships. I am comfortable tearing in to the top end of the block if need be, but i need some inclination to what to look for... ANY help would be appreciated as its KILLING me being back in the NW and not being able to keep the jeep off of tarmac. THanks
Old 09-04-2012, 03:24 PM
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Did you check the fuel filter?
Old 09-04-2012, 03:29 PM
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Did you check each plug wire for damage in the insulation or one of the boots pulled back?
Old 09-04-2012, 05:21 PM
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i thought there's no way to check the fuel filter as it is in the gas tank; aside from dropping the tank. All the wires seem to be in ok shape i.e. no cracking, melting, tears, etc. Someone mentioned in another thread a EGR valve.. Not sure what that does or if it could be an issue?
Old 09-05-2012, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by UofOmoose
i thought there's no way to check the fuel filter as it is in the gas tank; aside from dropping the tank. All the wires seem to be in ok shape i.e. no cracking, melting, tears, etc. Someone mentioned in another thread a EGR valve.. Not sure what that does or if it could be an issue?
Egr valve...exhaust gas re-circulator /recycler..however you want to say it...part of the emissions system and it's purpose is to reuse unburned fuel mixture from the exhaust and dump it back in to the combustion chamber to be burned again.
But my guess and normal diagnosis is if you changed anything recently that's the first place you look....that being said, did you gap all the plugs before replacing them? Also did you make sure nothing broke off any of the wires? More then once( on previous vehicles..not the jeep) I've had the little metal socket that snaps into the top of the plug break off and stay on the plug.
Have you checked all of your battery connections and grounds?...probably not relevant but i know my jeep has done some weird stuff with no codes because of a loose wire at the battery once, and also had some funny idling problems when my battery was on its last leg...just something simple to double check...i hope you get this figured out!
Old 09-05-2012, 06:12 AM
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while we were driving back around 2 am at some point (we drove san antonio straight to portland) my other half reminded me that there was a code but i thought it was related to me pushing in on the brake while driving to use light from my brakes to look at my load off of the hitch (yeah, not smart looking forward). I felt as if it may have been some sort of accelerator code from depressing both pedals.... crap i can't remember. I did check gaps on plugs, and all wires are fine, including the metal clips inside each...
Old 09-05-2012, 08:18 PM
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anyone else with other thoughts/ideas? is replacing the egr valve the next attempt?
Old 09-05-2012, 09:30 PM
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I have this same exact problem. I replaced pretty much everything you have and still have the problem as well. I've filled it with premium and seafoam twice,checked the wires plus, the electrical connections to the sensors and cleaned the TB/injectors with cleaner and can't figure it out. Wouldn't mind hearing an answer either.
Old 09-06-2012, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Gekicker08
I have this same exact problem. I replaced pretty much everything you have and still have the problem as well. I've filled it with premium and seafoam twice,checked the wires plus, the electrical connections to the sensors and cleaned the TB/injectors with cleaner and can't figure it out. Wouldn't mind hearing an answer either.

How did your problems start? Any possible triggers? You've replaced your egr valve already too because that was my next step.. Either that or the dealership... What year how many miles? We can't be the only two guys that have this issue....
Old 09-06-2012, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by UofOmoose
anyone else with other thoughts/ideas? is replacing the egr valve the next attempt?
It had been my experience that when the egr valve malfunctions for even a second the c.e.l. Will illuminate and it won't go off until certain parameters are met...ie: so many cycles of ignition switch or a certain amount of miles with no fault is detected. Also if the egr was bad odds are it would just pollute and not run much different..again in my experience.
I had an old Saturn sc1 twin cam four banger(obd1 mind you) that burned oil and would gum the ege valve occasionally. It would throw the code and sometimes a good seafoam treatment would get it working and the code would eventually turn off, other times i would have to disassemble and manually clean it. But whether it was functioning or not the motor ran the same...hope that helps...i wouldn't go replacing the egr just yet especially with out any codes...just my.02


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