hydorlocked - have new motor - now more problems
09-28-2009, 12:44 PM
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JK Freak
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hydorlocked - have new motor - now more problems
beach dealership replaced the block, the heads and the throttle body - but now theres a whine from the auto tranmission and a whine and sick hum from the motor. the horn also sounds more like a weak jap horn versus a loud beep now.
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
09-28-2009, 02:50 PM
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JK Freak
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beach dealership replaced the block, the heads and the throttle body - but now theres a whine from the auto tranmission and a whine and sick hum from the motor. the horn also sounds more like a weak jap horn versus a loud beep now.
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
Last edited by stlfan06; 09-28-2009 at 06:06 PM.
09-28-2009, 07:11 PM
#4
JK Junkie
beach dealership replaced the block, the heads and the throttle body - but now theres a whine from the auto tranmission and a whine and sick hum from the motor. the horn also sounds more like a weak jap horn versus a loud beep now.
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
when i tried cranking after water damage (before they repaired) something with several connectors and heat sink cooked on the driver side front of vehicle, was this the computer?
thinking they may have fixed the obvious but created issues when bolting motor together?
taking it too my local dealer tomorrow (which is scary) - any ideas what motor, tranny and horn issues may be?
Didn't the dealer check the whole vehicle after replacing the block???
It sounds like the just replaced the block and when the engine fired up they bailed. Usually dealers check for other problems so they can charge you for fixing them.
Sorry to hear about your ongoing saga.
09-28-2009, 07:32 PM
#5
JK Junkie
NOTHING will kill an auto tranny as fast as water- the band and clutch material adhesive is waterbased, if water entered the tranny it might not be good. A whine is usually pump- based, could they have kinked a cooler line to the radiator when installing the engine? A kinked tranny cooler line will ''starve'' the oil pump in the tranny....Look hard at the fluid for water contamination.
Check your power steering pump for water contamination also.
Check your power steering pump for water contamination also.
09-28-2009, 07:42 PM
#6
JK Junkie
Another thought: the fusible link in your starter circuit probably fried when you tried to crank your hydro-locked engine due to a huge current draw because of the starter turning against the motor. This circuit is designed to do this to protect the starter. The dealership must have repaired it to get it to start now.
09-29-2009, 05:13 AM
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JK Freak
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Lol
yeh, you would think they would perform a basic post checklist - but seems dealers do as little as possible to get the most cash and ignore the rest.
all the true mechanics slowly died out after 1985 when computers were introduced. now all they do is look for codes and match them to the service manual.
actually looks like oil is leaking out between the tranny and block from the bottom where they meet.
all the true mechanics slowly died out after 1985 when computers were introduced. now all they do is look for codes and match them to the service manual.
actually looks like oil is leaking out between the tranny and block from the bottom where they meet.
Didn't the dealer check the whole vehicle after replacing the block???
It sounds like the just replaced the block and when the engine fired up they bailed. Usually dealers check for other problems so they can charge you for fixing them.
Sorry to hear about your ongoing saga.
It sounds like the just replaced the block and when the engine fired up they bailed. Usually dealers check for other problems so they can charge you for fixing them.
Sorry to hear about your ongoing saga.
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09-29-2009, 05:17 AM
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yeh, you would think they would perform a basic post checklist - but seems dealers do as little as possible to get the most cash and ignore the rest.
all the true mechanics slowly died out after 1985 when computers were introduced. now all they do is look for codes and match them to the service manual.
actually looks like oil is leaking out between the tranny and block from the bottom where they meet.
all the true mechanics slowly died out after 1985 when computers were introduced. now all they do is look for codes and match them to the service manual.
actually looks like oil is leaking out between the tranny and block from the bottom where they meet.
That's why they are called Technicians now..........
09-29-2009, 03:33 PM
#9
JK Junkie
do the finger check on the liquid coming out between the engine and tranny... if its red the front seal on the tranny is bad. There are 2 ways to install an auto tranny to the engine- first turn the torque converter while pushing it into the bell housing of the tranny. This turning will cause the converter to engage the pump drive. This enables the converter to seat all the way back into the tranny. This is the right way. The 2nd way is to bolt the converter to the flex plate and then attempt to install the converter into the trans pump while pulling the engine and tranny together. This is the WRONG way- not only do you have to turn the converter with a screwdriver on the ring gear to engage the pump, it will likely RUIN the front seal on the tranny, ruin the pump drive, bend the flex plate, etc,etc....If it's motor oil then the shop is responsible to replace it, if replacing the block the rear crankshaft seal would have to be replaced. If the seal is bad it could have been installed badly. They now use the drive-in seals, very easy to bend one when installing. The front tranny seal should have been replaced when replacing the engine, it's just good mechanical practice to replace it so you don't run into a leak situation upon reassembly. Cost $8.00, even when not included on the engine estimate a quick phone call and explanation will have every owner replacing it...
09-30-2009, 07:24 AM
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JK Freak
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thanks tim!
checked last night before taking it back to my local dealer - it's oil, not trans fluid.
the noise up in engine compartment was a pulley. they are replacing horn, pulley and adjusting the e-brake today and asked them to check the leak.
should be interesting see what they do with the oil leak! hopefully not use some bar leak crap to seal!
the noise up in engine compartment was a pulley. they are replacing horn, pulley and adjusting the e-brake today and asked them to check the leak.
should be interesting see what they do with the oil leak! hopefully not use some bar leak crap to seal!
do the finger check on the liquid coming out between the engine and tranny... if its red the front seal on the tranny is bad. There are 2 ways to install an auto tranny to the engine- first turn the torque converter while pushing it into the bell housing of the tranny. This turning will cause the converter to engage the pump drive. This enables the converter to seat all the way back into the tranny. This is the right way. The 2nd way is to bolt the converter to the flex plate and then attempt to install the converter into the trans pump while pulling the engine and tranny together. This is the WRONG way- not only do you have to turn the converter with a screwdriver on the ring gear to engage the pump, it will likely RUIN the front seal on the tranny, ruin the pump drive, bend the flex plate, etc,etc....If it's motor oil then the shop is responsible to replace it, if replacing the block the rear crankshaft seal would have to be replaced. If the seal is bad it could have been installed badly. They now use the drive-in seals, very easy to bend one when installing. The front tranny seal should have been replaced when replacing the engine, it's just good mechanical practice to replace it so you don't run into a leak situation upon reassembly. Cost $8.00, even when not included on the engine estimate a quick phone call and explanation will have every owner replacing it...