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How sensitive are stock driveshafts?

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Old 11-16-2016, 05:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by spmitchell86
Okay... Any tips to removing it? (The Rear) just unbolt the front and rear and pull it out right? Do i need to mArk it so it goes back in the same exact spot?
There's no phasing with a JK drive shaft - both sides are CV joints - orientation is not important when putting it back in.

There's some holes in the back of the pinion flange where you can insert a good punch to drive the drive shaft out of the flange. Can be a pain to get the right angle.
Old 11-16-2016, 06:39 AM
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I might be stating the obvious, but you might want to throw the TC in neutral so that once you have the axle side released from the pinion, you can rotate the DS making it easier to access the 8mm bolts on the TC side. Obviously, be sure to chock the wheels.
Old 11-17-2016, 09:07 AM
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Last edited by jtphoto JK; 11-17-2016 at 09:46 AM.
Old 11-17-2016, 09:22 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jtphoto JK
What are you doing about the transmission side. That yoke slides right out. You don't unbolt the front of the rear drive shaft. And You can't leave that yoke loose in the transmission anyway, it will likely blow out of there on the highway, as the only thing holding the tailshaft/yoke in is the drive shaft, nor should you drive around with the rear tail shaft out of the transmission without plugging the hole.
Um. I think you are mistaken. I've taken a couple different rear drive shafts off on the JK. The flange on the transfer case is bolted on.
Old 11-17-2016, 09:47 AM
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Thank you for the correction. I was thinking of my truck.
Old 12-02-2016, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
The rear needs an 8mm socket (if I'm reading correctly) to remove the bolts. Do the axle side first. There are small holes there to hammer from the rear to get the shaft out of the yoke. I skip that step and just put it in gear after the bolts are out of the axle side. It'll pop free and right out. I've never marked mine and haven't had any problems with it. When you put it back together be sure to anti-seize spots where metal is on metal.
Do you remove axle side or TC side first?
Old 12-02-2016, 08:59 PM
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Either way it's much faster if the wheels are off the ground.

You can only access two to three at a time with the angle of the yokes to the t case. With the vehicle up you can spin the shaft and use a pneumatic ratchet or similar and it makes it a 2 minute job.
Old 12-03-2016, 12:31 AM
  #28  
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like others have said, just make sure you chock the front wheels if doing this on your driveway / in your garage....
Old 12-03-2016, 03:33 AM
  #29  
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Either side but if you notice the shaft seems to be stuck in the yoke then you'll be either hammering it or connect the opposite side and put it in gear for a quick second to break it loose. My axle side was stuck so I did the axle side first.
Old 04-12-2017, 08:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
Grab the drive shaft near the diff. You should not be able to move it in any direction (left, right, up, down). If you get any movement, it could be that bearing.
Can this be checked with the wheels on the ground? Just installed new driveshaft and still having the vibrations.



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