"HOT OIL" MESSAGE, fluid boiling out of dip stick tube causing fire!!!
10-04-2011 | 09:04 PM
#51
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Germany
Well I am willing to bet that I could take any auto jk down several roads here and it would cause the hot oil light every time.
I am not sure if it is just with the new ecu for the 2011's, but when you their a code it records all data that is being collected by the ecu at that moment, engine rpm, wheel speed at each wheel, transmission torque, trans temp, ambient temp. it was literally three pages of data. Now if those bean counters cannot do a full root cause a analysis from that much data to find out what the issue is, they have issues
I am not sure if it is just with the new ecu for the 2011's, but when you their a code it records all data that is being collected by the ecu at that moment, engine rpm, wheel speed at each wheel, transmission torque, trans temp, ambient temp. it was literally three pages of data. Now if those bean counters cannot do a full root cause a analysis from that much data to find out what the issue is, they have issues
10-04-2011 | 09:49 PM
#52
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Well I am willing to bet that I could take any auto jk down several roads here and it would cause the hot oil light every time.
I am not sure if it is just with the new ecu for the 2011's, but when you their a code it records all data that is being collected by the ecu at that moment, engine rpm, wheel speed at each wheel, transmission torque, trans temp, ambient temp. it was literally three pages of data. Now if those bean counters cannot do a full root cause a analysis from that much data to find out what the issue is, they have issues
I am not sure if it is just with the new ecu for the 2011's, but when you their a code it records all data that is being collected by the ecu at that moment, engine rpm, wheel speed at each wheel, transmission torque, trans temp, ambient temp. it was literally three pages of data. Now if those bean counters cannot do a full root cause a analysis from that much data to find out what the issue is, they have issues
10-05-2011 | 06:12 AM
#53
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Germany
yep, life as a consumer. Every time that you buy something two weeks later something better comes out. I am still amazed with the number of car on the road today that have 300+ hp... heck my old Tahoe was sporting 320 hp and got an easy 20mpg on the highway @ 70mph
10-05-2011 | 08:42 AM
#54
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: California
In your scenario you mentioned (slight climb @ 30mph) you should turn O/D OFF. In this mode, the tranny may hold each gear a little longer and it will lock up the TC in 3rd instead of waiting for 4th to come (which never does in your scenario). When you run with the default O/D ON, the TC generally won't lockup in DRIVE because it's anticipating a shift into O/D soon where it plans to lock up instead. Since the shift to O/D won't happen on your 30mph ascent, it keeps chruning unlocked, generating a lot of heat.
The O/D OFF button is kinda mislabeled, because it really does more than simply lock out 4th gear. It runs a modified shift program that not only locks out 4th gear, but also locks up the TC in 3rd, changes the shift points, TC solenoid modulation, etc. to more appropriately handle more strenuous loads. It's more appropriately labeled in the Ram trucks as "Tow/Haul" mode. Maybe they need an updated toggle switch that's labeled "Econ" and "Heavy Duty" or something to aid the driver in using it more appropriately.
Last edited by Dad; 10-05-2011 at 08:50 AM.
10-05-2011 | 08:54 AM
#55
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Germany
Sure..creating the failure condition is easy. The trick is to understand how to PREVENT the failure condition.
In your scenario you mentioned (slight climb @ 30mph) you should turn O/D OFF. In this mode, the tranny may hold each gear a little longer and it will lock up the TC in 3rd instead of waiting for 4th to come (which never does in your scenario). When you run with the default O/D ON, the TC generally won't lockup in DRIVE because it's anticipating a shift into O/D soon where it plans to lock up instead. Since the shift to O/D won't happen on your 30mph ascent, it keeps chruning unlocked, generating a lot of heat.
In your scenario you mentioned (slight climb @ 30mph) you should turn O/D OFF. In this mode, the tranny may hold each gear a little longer and it will lock up the TC in 3rd instead of waiting for 4th to come (which never does in your scenario). When you run with the default O/D ON, the TC generally won't lockup in DRIVE because it's anticipating a shift into O/D soon where it plans to lock up instead. Since the shift to O/D won't happen on your 30mph ascent, it keeps chruning unlocked, generating a lot of heat.
10-05-2011 | 08:59 AM
#56
JK Freak
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Apex, NC
call the dealership and Chrysler Customer service and record the conversation - cover the original conversation to see if they confirm it and ask how long this has been an issue.
Then file a complaint with a copy of the recording to:
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
For the dealership, contact your local news agency ans see if they have a consumer watchdog reporter that would be interested in the story.
Amazing what can be accomplished when they try to hide from news coverage.
Then file a complaint with a copy of the recording to:
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
For the dealership, contact your local news agency ans see if they have a consumer watchdog reporter that would be interested in the story.
Amazing what can be accomplished when they try to hide from news coverage.
10-05-2011 | 09:15 AM
#57
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: California
I do the climb with o/d and traction control off (Pressing and holding the button until the light goes out)... same result every time. The worst part of it is that I want to tow my trailer and 2 quads up this road. If the stock Jeep cannot make it up this road without overheating the trans, how am I supposed to tow up it?
10-05-2011 | 09:25 AM
#58
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Germany
Hmm, well I'm at a loss for your situation then because like you, I also pull a utility trailer with 2 ATV's and a dirt bike (and a bunch of firewood and gas cans as well) behind my JK up tight switchback roads and I've never had the HOTOIL message come on. Loaded, my trailer is probably around 2200-2500 lbs. Are you running the stock wheels and tires?
If I had bought it used, I would have no issue installing a B&M cooler. My issue is with a sticker price of 38k, having Chrysler tell me that they would help me out by paying for half of a new trans cooler ($233 my cost). At the time I still had not even made my first payment and I laughed at her about the offer. For the code that the ecu throws when you get the hot oil light, the final solution in the factory fault isolation manual is to install a transmission oil cooler if they do not find anything wrong.
10-05-2011 | 09:49 AM
#59
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: boise, idaho
Wow I cannot tell you how depressing this thread was to read ! Not only do I have a Jeep that knocks and pings like a 83 Pinto, burns oil and runs and sounds terrible. I also know now it can also catch fire from the auto trans overheating. What a piece of isht this Jeep is turning out to be. Chryslers Lifetime Powertrain warranty isnt worth the paper to wipe my arse with.
10-05-2011 | 11:47 AM
#60
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
From: Alb., NM
Run 4LO, O/D OFF, and DRIVE while off-roading (meaning, there's anything other than asphalt under the tires. This includes dirt, mud, sand, heavy snow, etc.)
Run 4HI, O/D OFF, and DRIVE when driving through moderate snow, on-road.
Run 2HI, O/D OFF, and DRIVE when ascending a grade or towing, on-road.
Run 2HI, O/D ON, and DRIVE when cruising along the highway (no grades) and not towing.
Following this is the key to avoiding transmission overheat conditions. While it may seem logical to shift into 1 or 2 while off-roading, don't do it. The transmission will never achieve TC lockup in 1 or 2 and will overheat. Putting it in DRIVE with the O/D off gives the transmission the best chances of achieving TC lockup.
Yes, it would have been nice if Chrysler had designed it with a greater margin of operating tolerance. But at the same time, it's not a deficient design either, since if it's operated per Chrysler's instructions in the manual (see page 356, "The Basics of Off-Road Driving"), then there shouldn't be an overheating issue. Also, this assumes a stock JK. Any mods (which Chrysler warns against on page 8 of the owner's manual under "Vehicle Modifications/Alterations"), such as running larger tires, increases the risk of transmission overheating. I know..it sucks and all, but just saying that there is a way to mitigate the problem by following instructions precisely. It's worked for me, anyway.
Run 4HI, O/D OFF, and DRIVE when driving through moderate snow, on-road.
Run 2HI, O/D OFF, and DRIVE when ascending a grade or towing, on-road.
Run 2HI, O/D ON, and DRIVE when cruising along the highway (no grades) and not towing.
Following this is the key to avoiding transmission overheat conditions. While it may seem logical to shift into 1 or 2 while off-roading, don't do it. The transmission will never achieve TC lockup in 1 or 2 and will overheat. Putting it in DRIVE with the O/D off gives the transmission the best chances of achieving TC lockup.
Yes, it would have been nice if Chrysler had designed it with a greater margin of operating tolerance. But at the same time, it's not a deficient design either, since if it's operated per Chrysler's instructions in the manual (see page 356, "The Basics of Off-Road Driving"), then there shouldn't be an overheating issue. Also, this assumes a stock JK. Any mods (which Chrysler warns against on page 8 of the owner's manual under "Vehicle Modifications/Alterations"), such as running larger tires, increases the risk of transmission overheating. I know..it sucks and all, but just saying that there is a way to mitigate the problem by following instructions precisely. It's worked for me, anyway.
I have about 9K on the jeep now and have A TON of offroad miles.
I got the HOT OIL indicator for the first time last week when in Colorado going up a fairly steep dirt road. I could tell the Jeep was hurting for more power... 2WD 2nd and 1st... O/D off. my mistake..
Once I hit the 4x4 dirt I went into 4Hi but I believe the temp was to hot to recovery.. I got the light shortly after I put it in 4Hi.
got it once again... then realized this should really be driven in 4Lo - D,2,1 depending on the grades... once I did this no more HOT OIL indicator... I continued to drive in 4LO or even in 4Hi....
I do agree this is a poor design but I also think it's about learning how to drive the vechile on hand,
I should add in some cases.. I also have learned to turn off the OD on the highway during some of the littlest hills.............. OMG I thought at first but that's life with this Jeep..... so I have learned..
well see....