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Stock JK Tech Bulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
View Poll Results: How did/will you break-in your new JK's engine?
1: "RTFM": Soft but safe; aka "the engineers know best."
26.83%
2: "DILYSI": Drove it like I stole it - extreme break-in style.
12.20%
3: "Felt it Out": Somewhere between 1 and 2, not TOO extreme, not too wimpy.
54.47%
4: "The Scientist": I followed a strictly-controlled routine (explain).
3.25%
5: Other (explain): None of the above describe my method. :question:
3.25%
Voters: 123. You may not vote on this poll

Help settle an argument re: Engine Break-In

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Old 06-23-2007, 02:30 PM
  #61  
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The dirtiest oil I ever see from any engine of mine is always after the first oil change for a new vehicle--at 500 miles. However, with my JK, I was surprised how very clean the oil was at that change. After about 2000 miles I could definitely feel a difference in the performance of the engine--much more "pep". I figured it was broke in, but I'm waiting for the 6000 mile oil change to switch to Mobil 1 (which I've been running in all my vehicles since the mid-70s). I might have changed to synth at 3000 miles, but DC gave me a free oil change.
Old 06-27-2007, 05:21 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by MJS_Jeep_888
From Page 75 of the downloadable Owner's Manual (and I quote):

"ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine in
your new vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).
After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55
mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the
limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in.

Wide open throttle acceleration in low gear can be
detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil
changes should be consistent with anticipated climate
conditions under which vehicle operations will occur.
The recommended viscosity and quality grades are
shown in Section 7 of this manual. NON-DETERGENT
OR STRAIGHT MINERAL OILS MUST NEVER BE
USED."

There's your answer - don't "gun it" off the line consistently (once in a while is actually GOOD for the engine, for proper seating/sealing) but don't be afraid to "juice it" once you're under way...
Yup, thats the exact answer there.
Old 06-27-2007, 09:59 PM
  #63  
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My 94, I drove it hard, soft, etc to break it in, but only for the first 300 miles or so, then it was hammer time.

Anyway, I sold it with 150K on it, Zero clutch slippage, zero oil burning. It did have oil leakage on the pan gasket and the valve gasket (replaced that).

I've did that with all my vehicles too no ill effects.

I'll do that with my 08 JK as well... If I ever get it.
Old 06-28-2007, 08:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Dr.McNinja
Ditto- I use this exact process on my motocross racing engines and my engines last way longer then the norm (it doesn't hurt that I ride Yamaha YZ450Fs either). It's all about getting the rings to seat.



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