View Poll Results: How did/will you break-in your new JK's engine?
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Help settle an argument re: Engine Break-In
03-17-2007, 04:30 PM
#41
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heat cycling in my opinion would be the best way.
I think an oil change at or about 1500 would be good as well. If I can find one.. I will go with a magnetic drain plug to collect some junk that collects in the oil pan.
I think an oil change at or about 1500 would be good as well. If I can find one.. I will go with a magnetic drain plug to collect some junk that collects in the oil pan.
03-17-2007, 04:51 PM
#43
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I've been breaking in engines the same way since 1985 when I purchased a Dodge mini Ram van with the 2.6L Mitsubishi engine.
The van was bought for commercial purposes. After putting about 200km on it I took it out on the highway for a four hour run about 250 miles(400 kms) varying the speed constantly. I shut the van down for 2 hrs. then made the return trip the same way. When I got home I drove it for another few days till I reached 1500km on the odometer and did my first oil change. Then the van went to work. I sold the van 3 years later with 460,000kms on it and I still see it on the road today.
Most of the 2.6L engines lasted about 60,000 before coughing up their cookies.
I did a ring job at 300,000: a valve job at 420,000 and wore out the ring and pinion at 440,000. The van still had the original block in it when sold.
Was I Lucky?? maybe
BTW: go easy on the accellerator, don't stomp on it right away.
The van was bought for commercial purposes. After putting about 200km on it I took it out on the highway for a four hour run about 250 miles(400 kms) varying the speed constantly. I shut the van down for 2 hrs. then made the return trip the same way. When I got home I drove it for another few days till I reached 1500km on the odometer and did my first oil change. Then the van went to work. I sold the van 3 years later with 460,000kms on it and I still see it on the road today.
Most of the 2.6L engines lasted about 60,000 before coughing up their cookies.
I did a ring job at 300,000: a valve job at 420,000 and wore out the ring and pinion at 440,000. The van still had the original block in it when sold.
Was I Lucky?? maybe
BTW: go easy on the accellerator, don't stomp on it right away.
Last edited by LarryAlex1; 03-17-2007 at 04:54 PM.
03-17-2007, 06:55 PM
#45
JK Junkie
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03-17-2007, 10:48 PM
#46
JK Freak
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I had 34 miles on my jeep when I picked it up. I had a 60 mile drive home. After reading many threads on engine break in, I varied speeds and rpms on the way home, usually b/t 2k and 3k on the interstate for 45 miles. I have let it cycle to normal operating temperatures for the first few days before I drove it. Now, I have roughly 400 miles (pretty much driving it the way I normally will and not babying it) and plan on doing the same until about 1000 miles, then change the oil. After the oil change, I plan on driving normally with a few offroad trips putting more stress on it, and then change oil again at 3k miles, then continue to change every 3k (bought the service contract). When the service contract ends (60k or 4 yrs) I plan on going synthetic and spacing out the oil change to every 6k. I doubt I will every do oil analysis (even though I have heard that this is the most effecient way) b/c I honestly don't have the time. At some point when the warranty is out and/or its not my DD, maybe I will SC or go stroker with bigger lift/meats.
Mind you this is only my plan for the engine. Tranny, transfer case, and diffs will be approached differently ( still trying to decide, good debate for another thread).
Mind you this is only my plan for the engine. Tranny, transfer case, and diffs will be approached differently ( still trying to decide, good debate for another thread).
03-18-2007, 04:29 AM
#47
JK Freak
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So, like I said, you are following what one part of the manual says about the engine, but ignoring what the manual says about aftermarket parts, even though they are written by the same people.
Ok. So you only but 5W- 20 in it, cheap gas only, and didn't break 50mph in the first 60 miles? What about the people who drove it before you? Or did it come with 0 miles on it?
Well, sort of. They know what will cause fewer of them to be repaired under warranty. They put that so that it will cost DC less money, not because it is the best way to make your engine run well. You'll note, though, that their information is basically the same as the material I posted, just that mine was a little more in depth, and explained why the manual said what it did.
I didn't say it.
Good for you. So do I. Our opinions differ, but you insist on typing in capital letters and telling people I am wrong. You have no data to prove you are right either, just anecdotal experience. I told people to do what they want, you told them to do one thing only.
Ok. So you only but 5W- 20 in it, cheap gas only, and didn't break 50mph in the first 60 miles? What about the people who drove it before you? Or did it come with 0 miles on it?
Well, sort of. They know what will cause fewer of them to be repaired under warranty. They put that so that it will cost DC less money, not because it is the best way to make your engine run well. You'll note, though, that their information is basically the same as the material I posted, just that mine was a little more in depth, and explained why the manual said what it did.
I didn't say it.
Good for you. So do I. Our opinions differ, but you insist on typing in capital letters and telling people I am wrong. You have no data to prove you are right either, just anecdotal experience. I told people to do what they want, you told them to do one thing only.
What I said was "READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL ". I didn't say follow it word for word -use it as a guide coupled with common sense. I did not stay under 50 mph, I prob.went to 60-65mph. I got on it a little going up a few hills , I didn't baby it -or beat on it either . I drove it pretty much like I normally would do.I mentioned reading the manual in the first place because of the -drive it like you stole it thing. Someone might read that and run with it , and I don't think thats the rite approach.
I don't think DC has conspired to get people to follow their recommendations just to get them past the warranty period , and then it falls apart as soon as the three years are up. As far as parts go--if I need an alternator or maybe a fan belt i'll get DC parts, will I use a DC oil filter ?--NO ( but I might use a DC fuel filter though ) When I go to the doctor , I take his advice and take the meds. he prescribes, but I don't buy the cheap vitamins he mite try to sell me on the way out. Common sense is the key---you don't drive it like granny or beat the hell out it either...............
PS...mine had 2 miles on it when I got it ( the dealer said they took it to the track and entered it into 8 quater mile races ) and who knows what they did with it.................Also, i'll use quality reg. gas and 5w-20 oil.........
Last edited by clubber; 03-18-2007 at 04:44 AM.
03-18-2007, 10:33 AM
#48
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I don't think it is written so that it will break in 3 years when the warranty ends, it is just written so that the fewest of them break ever. However, fewest breaking doesn't mean most horsepower, that's all I was saying.
Engines today are built with such high tolerances that much of this is a moot point anyway. Yeah, you might have a few hot spots in your engine, but it is nothing like the old V8's of yore. Pretty much anything will run outside of the box now-a-days, and if it will break, generally it will break early enough that you get your warranty fix (barring some design flaw like many engines have had in the last 10 years, but this is an old tech motor, so I doubt it).
03-18-2007, 05:38 PM
#49
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<Squash>
You both chose to completely ignore my stupid post about breaking an engine, just so that you could go at each other a little more?
Let's agree to disagree and let this rest - you're both right to some degree. Bottom line, and an unassailable argument: The manual's instructions are safe - end of story there. Speaking to the other side of the argument, it is possible that alternative break-in methods may yield better results - then again, they may cause premature engine failure. Simply stated, THIS side of the argument is not scientifically "proven," whereas people have been gently breaking in their engines for generations with proven results. Time will tell, and if you've got the balls to beat the piss out of your brand-new engine right off the lot, more power to you, and good luck.
As for me, I split the difference between the extremes. Can't we all just wave along?
Edit: I wanted some objective "across the forum" input, so I started this poll - please feel free to make your case on this thread.
You both chose to completely ignore my stupid post about breaking an engine, just so that you could go at each other a little more?
Let's agree to disagree and let this rest - you're both right to some degree. Bottom line, and an unassailable argument: The manual's instructions are safe - end of story there. Speaking to the other side of the argument, it is possible that alternative break-in methods may yield better results - then again, they may cause premature engine failure. Simply stated, THIS side of the argument is not scientifically "proven," whereas people have been gently breaking in their engines for generations with proven results. Time will tell, and if you've got the balls to beat the piss out of your brand-new engine right off the lot, more power to you, and good luck.
As for me, I split the difference between the extremes. Can't we all just wave along?
Edit: I wanted some objective "across the forum" input, so I started this poll - please feel free to make your case on this thread.
To say THIS side of the argument is not scientifically proven is not completely accurate. As stated in my first post there have been numerous comparisons done with tear down pictures of different break in procedures so you can see exactly what effects differing methods have on various parts of an engine, and thats just what I have seen with my OWN eyes, Im sure theres plenty more.
I didnt take the time to find a link and post pictures because I figured if anyone was interested enough they could do it themselves.
No matter what the issue is its ALWAYS best to seek out all the available information from various trusted sources and decifer the information and come to a conclusion on the subject yourself. But its much easier to ask a question and read what other people "think".
In the end it all comes down to the fact that most people will do what they want/think is best anyway.
.
03-18-2007, 05:50 PM
#50
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