View Poll Results: How did/will you break-in your new JK's engine?
Voters: 123. You may not vote on this poll
Help settle an argument re: Engine Break-In
09-29-2006, 06:07 PM
#11
All my vehicles get ONE oil change each year. My wife's car is a 2003 VW Passat and she puts on 30,000 a year. I do a lot less now that I work from home, but I used to put on 25,000+ a year.
I use the Amsoil regular Synthetic in a 5W-30 and my wife gets the Euro version 0W-40. My Honda get the Motorcycle 10W-40.
Amsoil is $5-$6 a quart, but when you figure out that it's just one change a year, it's a savings. Go to Amsoil.com and check it out.
As for the turbos, a really good Synthetic is the ideal lube as it resists heat breakdown MUCH better than conventional oils, and likely the lack of a cooldown won't matter as much.The best thing for Turbos, however, is to replace the mechanical oil pump with an electric and add a Turbo timer to it to keep the oil circulating for several minutes after shutdown.
As for the diesel, I can't say. I know they make all kinds of special kits of diesels, but until the engine is on the market, I can't look up a configuration to find a part #. (The European Diesel is in there, but there is no guarantee it's the same as what would be used in the US market)
Truth be told, I signed up as a dealer so that I get a discount when I order. For example, my friends and I pitched in and bought a 16 gallon keg of gear oil a few years back and saved almost $500 with the dealer pricing. You do need to order a lot to make the dealer pricing work, but it doesn't take more than 5 friends with 2 cars each to really make a difference. I order 8 cases of motor oil each fall for all the vehicles. I save almost $20 a case because of the bulk and dealer pricing. It actually saves enough that I can run the Synthetic in my tractor, snowblower, and everything that is gas powered for less than anything but the really cheap no-name stuff.
Give it a try.
I use the Amsoil regular Synthetic in a 5W-30 and my wife gets the Euro version 0W-40. My Honda get the Motorcycle 10W-40.
Amsoil is $5-$6 a quart, but when you figure out that it's just one change a year, it's a savings. Go to Amsoil.com and check it out.
As for the turbos, a really good Synthetic is the ideal lube as it resists heat breakdown MUCH better than conventional oils, and likely the lack of a cooldown won't matter as much.The best thing for Turbos, however, is to replace the mechanical oil pump with an electric and add a Turbo timer to it to keep the oil circulating for several minutes after shutdown.
As for the diesel, I can't say. I know they make all kinds of special kits of diesels, but until the engine is on the market, I can't look up a configuration to find a part #. (The European Diesel is in there, but there is no guarantee it's the same as what would be used in the US market)
Truth be told, I signed up as a dealer so that I get a discount when I order. For example, my friends and I pitched in and bought a 16 gallon keg of gear oil a few years back and saved almost $500 with the dealer pricing. You do need to order a lot to make the dealer pricing work, but it doesn't take more than 5 friends with 2 cars each to really make a difference. I order 8 cases of motor oil each fall for all the vehicles. I save almost $20 a case because of the bulk and dealer pricing. It actually saves enough that I can run the Synthetic in my tractor, snowblower, and everything that is gas powered for less than anything but the really cheap no-name stuff.
Give it a try.
09-30-2006, 04:14 AM
#14
JK Enthusiast
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As I was looking at Amsoil site, I see that they recommand to use Engine Flush to clean the motor. Maybe it's just for well used one but are you thinking that it's a good thing to do on brand new engine to be sure to remove everything in the motor. It's cheap at about 5$ but don't want to do it if not requise. As for the auto trans, it should be a good start to do the same.
09-30-2006, 05:59 PM
#15
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Remote.
This moves the oil filter to another location. In the past, I've mounted it to the firewall on the passenger side, but I have no idea what the space is like under the hood of the JK, so you will have to find a location. The kit then uses hoses to the original filter location. It makes changing the filter easier, usually creates less of a mess (the filter cna be mounted perfectly vertical) and you can usually use a MUCH larger filter. This allows you to easily use a synthetic oil's extended drain without worryabout the filter being too small. (anyone see the size of the filter in a Honda Minivan? It's slightly narrower and about 2/3 the length of a can of coke. I actually had to buy a smaller oil filter wrench to remove it.)
This moves the oil filter to another location. In the past, I've mounted it to the firewall on the passenger side, but I have no idea what the space is like under the hood of the JK, so you will have to find a location. The kit then uses hoses to the original filter location. It makes changing the filter easier, usually creates less of a mess (the filter cna be mounted perfectly vertical) and you can usually use a MUCH larger filter. This allows you to easily use a synthetic oil's extended drain without worryabout the filter being too small. (anyone see the size of the filter in a Honda Minivan? It's slightly narrower and about 2/3 the length of a can of coke. I actually had to buy a smaller oil filter wrench to remove it.)
Should be easier to get to there and maybe it will remove the prior problems of oil dripping all over the engine skid plate when changing the oil in the old 4.0 liter!
03-15-2007, 07:58 PM
#16
JK Newbie
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Some people say the best way to seat the rings is by simulating the exact conditions they will see most often, ie if its a drag motor you make full throttle pulls. I have seen several teardown pictures of motors broken in this way versus babying the motor and must say they were pretty convincing.
Not that I follow that advice exactly, especially with a 25k brand new vehicle, but its something to think about, maybe even do a search on...
Not that I follow that advice exactly, especially with a 25k brand new vehicle, but its something to think about, maybe even do a search on...
03-16-2007, 02:04 AM
#17
JK Freak
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Some people say the best way to seat the rings is by simulating the exact conditions they will see most often, ie if its a drag motor you make full throttle pulls. I have seen several teardown pictures of motors broken in this way versus babying the motor and must say they were pretty convincing.
Not that I follow that advice exactly, especially with a 25k brand new vehicle, but its something to think about, maybe even do a search on...
Not that I follow that advice exactly, especially with a 25k brand new vehicle, but its something to think about, maybe even do a search on...
section...........
03-16-2007, 06:45 AM
#19
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: AT LARGE somewhere in CT
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"ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine in
your new vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km).
After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55
mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration, within the
limits of local traffic laws, contributes to a good break-in.
Wide open throttle acceleration in low gear can be
detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a
high quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil
changes should be consistent with anticipated climate
conditions under which vehicle operations will occur.
The recommended viscosity and quality grades are
shown in Section 7 of this manual. NON-DETERGENT
OR STRAIGHT MINERAL OILS MUST NEVER BE
USED."
There's your answer - don't "gun it" off the line consistently (once in a while is actually GOOD for the engine, for proper seating/sealing) but don't be afraid to "juice it" once you're under way...
