joss097

Hi everyone, I wish I already have my JK but don't really expect it until November but my question is, how did you break a new motor? I know you have to be gentle on the throttle but how much miles does it take to be sure that everything is OK before full throttle mud bog. It's my first new car so I want to enjoy it the greatest way. Thanks guy, I know you will teach me great.

john112deere

I think you mean how do you break IN an new motor. (Breaking them is easy- right foot to the floor 'till you hear a bang...)

I've always heard 1000 miles was a good break-in interval. Not above 50 mph, not much above 3k rpm, and ideally no sustained-rpm cruising for that period. I don't think I'd really hammer it until about 2500-3000 miles on it, and wouldn't expect my full mileage potential until 5k or so.

I believe it is also a good idea to change the oil and filter a few times fairly early in the life of the engine (though some vehicles come with special break-in oil and you shouldn't put regular viscosity oil in them too soon- I doubt this applies to the JK, but perhaps someone here knows for sure).

I REALLY hate beating on equipment, so I may be a bit more conservative than a lot of people. (I've never redlined a car. Ever. Don't ever intend to, either.)

wayoflife

LOL!! :o Well, English isn't joss097's first language and I think we all knew what he meant but I have to admit, it still made me laugh the first time I read it.

As far as break in period goes, yeah, I've always been told to go easy on the gas the first 500-1000 miles.

ericdewayne

maybe if i break mine good enough it'll give me an excuse to put in that 5.7 Hemi! WOO HOO!

CJ2a

The real key is to get the rings to seat. Lots of engine speed changes, no constant load, and many heat cycles (use, sit, use, sit) all help to do that.

Honestly, the engine is probably good to go after only about 200-300 miles. It's in that time you need to be most careful not to overtax or go too easy.

I would not worry so much about highway speeds as I would doing 100 miles at highway speeds. In fact, a few blips into the higher RPMS under load isn't a bad thing, just don't do it often at first.

Change the oil and filter after about 600-800 miles and the vast majority of the break-in wear particles will be removed. (great time to start using a premium synthetic and installing a premium remote bypass filter system)

Everything will need to be worked a little. Find some dirt roads to work the 4WD system. Shift it in and out a lot. Get into 4 low a few times too. Kick the lockers etc.

Basically, since you are supposed to be constantly changing engine speeds, a little off-road isn't a bad thing at all.

joss097

I appreciate that you tell it but as my english is so, so (imagine my speaking!!) you guy reply exactly what I want to know but the only thing I don't understand is the remote bypass oil filter. I was wondering that using synthetic oil only require a filter to match. Can you explain what it is? As for the 5.7 Hemi, I just mist one here in Montreal for 1800usd with trans and t-case. Which trans comes with it if you know? I see that Fourwheeler use the 5 speeds out of a Grand (545RFE I think) and that it connect directly to the 243 t-case.

bLITZ

*note units in KM not miles*

just to add to the above posts... if yours is stick, do not engine break for the first 500km or so. By that i mean do not downshift to above 3,500rpm in order to slowdown. Such as when coming off the highway etc.

And as mentioned above, do not rev over 3,500rpm for a good 500km.

CJ2a

Remote Bypass....

OK, this is actually TWO different things in one.

Remote.

This moves the oil filter to another location. In the past, I've mounted it to the firewall on the passenger side, but I have no idea what the space is like under the hood of the JK, so you will have to find a location. The kit then uses hoses to the original filter location. It makes changing the filter easier, usually creates less of a mess (the filter cna be mounted perfectly vertical) and you can usually use a MUCH larger filter. This allows you to easily use a synthetic oil's extended drain without worryabout the filter being too small. (anyone see the size of the filter in a Honda Minivan? It's slightly narrower and about 2/3 the length of a can of coke. I actually had to buy a smaller oil filter wrench to remove it.)

Bypass

All oil filters have a bypass valve. when the oil is very thick (cold) or the filter is getting filled with crud, this valve opens and allows the oil to pass unfiltered to maintain oil pressure. A Bypass filter is a second filter and a valve in the mount that opens before the filter's usually would and the extra oil is sent into the bypass filter. You usually change this filter every other oil change. It ensures that ALL the oil is filtered and maintians your oil pressure.

Another item that can be built into this is called a 'pre-charger'. Basically this is a device that brings up the oil pressure before you start the engine so that there is no cold start wear.

If you intend to run a high end synthetic (like Amsoil which is what I use) and you tend to keep your vehicles a LONG time (10 years for me is about the minimum) it makes a lot of sense to install this kind of lubrication system as I've had engines with 300,000 miles on them and never had any internal problems. I've pulled heads for valve jobs and found cams, lifters, rod guides, and rockers looking like new.

I don't want to turn this into a product plug, but to give you an idea of what I'm talking about, you can see the system I run in my Ram on this page:

Bypass System

If you scroll down to the pictures, I use the BMK13 with the precharger just as you see on the second row of the photos on the right side. The silver tube on the top fills with oil when the truck is running. The filter on the let is my primary and the filter ont he right is the bypass.

When I start my truck, I turn the key on, wait for the beeping to stop from the preoiler and then turn to the start position. (about 8 seconds) That little pause saves me up to 50% of normal engine wear caused by startup. Even if someone doesn't know to wait and just starts the truck normally, the system still makes oil pressure much faster than the pump alone so I'm protected even if someone else has the truck.

It's not cheap.

It's $200 for the remote/bypass and another $300 for the oil precharger, but what's $500 over 10+ years knowing that you've eliminated the vast majority of the causes for engine wear? Oh, and my system adds another 2 quarts of oil to the engine too. That's a 30% increase in oil volume.

Seriously, consider such a system.

bridman225

That’s very interesting stuff CJ2A. Very helpful. Do they have such a thing for the Diesel engines that will eventually come out? Also what about a post-oilier for the turbo on the new diesel?

This would lube the turbo after shut down and reduce the coking effect of the motor oil. We know you should let the engine idle for a short time after running, but we don't. This oilier would increase the life of the turbo.

I found this at http://www.pre-luber.com/
With PRE-TURBOLUBER - Oil flow is achieved before start-up automatically. Metal to metal contact is eliminated. At shut-down the Pre-luber pumps oil to the bearing for up to 5 minutes, lubricating the bearing during spin-down and cooling the bearing to non-harmful temperatures. Abrasive "coke" is completely avoided

joss097

It sounds really good. With this system, what is your mileage between oil change. I don't know much about Amsoil oil, it should be pricey? What about others synthetic brands, it should work great too? Here in Quebec, Canada, we have to deal with hot summer 90 F and cold winter -25 F so can I use the same oil all year long? Thanks guys