Mr.T

Can't see how any light that's turned off can cause a problem. Side note on corrosion of electrical connections near the ocean, No-OX grease works pretty good.

If the tech didn't check for excess key-off amperage, that could be the whole problem. It can go a while without symptoms when the battery is new, but it wears a battery out prematurely (amp-hours reduced and internal impedance increased). I've seen cars go through several batteries, each lasting under a year, and all along it's some parasitic amperage with the key off.

Not sure how comfortable you are with electrical work, but here's an overnight experiment with minimal risk: After running the engine (or charger) enough to have >12.7 V with the engine/charger off, disconnect the neg battery lead and leave it disconnected overnight (suggest some cardboard or rubber to keep the post and terminal separated). In the morning read the battery voltage, it should still be over 12.5 V. If yes, connect the neg and start the engine. If it turns over good, then there is likely excess key-off amperage drawing it down overnight when the battery is connected normally. In the opposite case where the battery voltage is <12.5 after being left disconnected it is likely that the battery has a internal problem causing self discharge.

EHarris

Ok so the second person who knows what they are doing when it comes to a bench test says the starter is toast. Of course it could be because the idiots at the auto parts store fried it. In any event I had the extra mopar. It's installed and working. Still the same issue no start. X2 battery comes in 8 more days from batteries plus. Good deal right now with 10% off and $30 rebate. So I'll have to wait that out. I feel I got a good deal on a new mopar alternator so I'm going to replace mine and hope it goes for another 151k.

I'll try the battery test later this week and I'll order a new interior light.

Can someone quickly school me on hardware. I wanted to replace the rusty worn starter bolts. Can I just pick up a bolt and washer combo for the hardware store and use them or does it have to be the mopar ordered part numbers. They definitely look like a different grade. I picked up some hardware as an example from the store and for picture purposes put it in the old starter.

Mr.T

Attached are a couple of handy PDF's on fasteners. As long as the threads/length match, and strength is equal or higher; substitution is generally OK.

Something that often comes up is replacing a flanged bolt or nut with a regular head plus washer. Most of the time it's fine, provided the washer is hard enough, and the diameter is similar to the flange so it doesn't interfere -- Take a close look where the washer fits on things like castings where there usually is a relatively small area machined for a flanged bolt. I believe the manufacturer's prefer flanged heads over washers because the larger area adds friction that helps keep them from loosening, and it makes assembly faster/more reliable by not having a separate washer to deal with.

Anti-seize works pretty good. It will inhibit corrosion as well as make it easier to disassemble decades later. See the notes in the PDF's about reducing torque with lubricated threads. With lubed threads there is less friction so there is more bolt stretch for a given amount of torque.

Edit: Often old bolts initially look worse than they are, and just need some love with a wire brush with a coat of anti-seize before assembly.

EHarris

Ok great. I definitely plan on cleaning up the bolts on the wire wheel but the top bolt got a slight round over on the head trying to crack it free. So I'm planning on cleaning the other one but replacing that one. I can spring for the $6 dollar part.

resharp001

Good explanation ^^. Always frustrating when I'm trying to find a replacement for a flange bolt without paying the dealer prices! Sometimes a regular bolt can work, but I find several times too that the head of a regular bolt might not allow room for a socket.

I find course thread flange bolts aren't readily available at hardware stores. Do auto stores a better source for these things?

Been following along on the thread. Hoping that battery helps.

Mr.T

Not usually, at least not the chain stores around here. There's a couple hardware stores about 40 miles from me with a huge fastener selection -- seems like most big cities have a store or two that cater to machine shops, etc.

EHarris

Here in so cal Orange County I have a store called Hilco Fastener Warehouse. I have also found some hardware for the JK on Grainger.

Both are online and quadratec give you a nice exploded view of the assembly and sizes. I always just look on quadratec and copy and paste into the other sites.

EHarris

So to update this thread I am definitely getting voltage drop. Something is eating the power on it when it's not running. New alternator came in today. Putting it in tonight.

Last night I charged the battery and checked the voltage was at 12.69v. I then disconnected the battery. The next morning the voltage was the same and the Jeep started right up. Drove to work and left the battery connected and it wouldn't start when I tried to leave.

Mr.T

It may be the alternator, specifically the diodes. One of the failure modes for diodes is excess leakage current.

EHarris

So the alternator was a 2 beer job. Super easy.

Jeep started right up this morning.