Sv_dude

Now that summers over, have you had temp spikes up in the 230-240 range? I still get temp spikes (factory radiator, recessed winch, no bull bar) if I’m at 4000-5000 rpm for anymore than a minute. Once I drop down to 3000 rpm the temp quickly goes back down.

resharp001

No, I've pretty much been in a normal range for my jeep. This morning it was a nice 206°, but that was with an ambient temp in the 50's. Typically I'm around 215-220 on the interstate with normal temps (sub 100°) and while cruising around 3k rpm. I just don't drive in that rpm range, though I presume if I did I'd see some spiking as you do. I think that's just asking a lot of this engine. Bout to pull the trailer to Big Bend this coming week which is a good 8hrs or so. I'll keep a close eye on coolant temps during that time. I suspect I'll have more downshifting (higher rpms) with the trailer behind me, though still not likely has high revving as you are.

Sv_dude

Yea, I’d imagine that if you’re not asking much from the engine then you’ll stay much cooler. The way I see it is that if engineers are setting the start of redline at 5500 rpm, then even 5000 rpm is in a healthy range. I’ve used this idea for all vehicles and aircraft. In fact, it’s perfectly normal to run an aircraft at “max performance” and be slightly below the max engine or airframe capabilities since that’s what it’s engineered for. I don’t see 5000 rpm as unsafe because of this. The only issue that I see is that a “normal” operating range, the coolant temp should also stay normal. However, this isn’t a big enough deal for me to dig into the radiator or cooling fan.

resharp001

Y, I don't disagree with your logic here. I will say that when I went to Moab and colorado this summer I went through several passes. We cut through Durango on the way to Moab and temps were pretty warm there with significant grade climbs heading out of town. It was a lot of work getting the trailer up those climbs with the engine revving over 4500 or higher. What I found interesting at that time was if I forced my fan on high and just left it there then temps were staying at a nice level. If I didn't have the fan on high (I have to reset at every restart and had forgot after getting gas) then I'd see the normal spikes I'd expect. Curious if you force your fan to run on high if you experience cooler temps with that same driving. Even in those Moab summer temps I wasn't having issues if I ran the fan on high constantly (with or without the trailer behind me).

Sv_dude

What are you doing to make your fan run on high? I’ll be driving up the mountains this afternoon near Phoenix and I’ll give it a shot to see. If it works for me then maybe I’ll wire in a switch to control the fan manually.

resharp001

I use my BullyDog tuner to kick it to high. That is what is always plugged into my OBDII to monitor some other things since the computer on my cheapo '13 Sport-S doesn't allow me the ability to monitor stupid simple things on my dash. I would think that Jscan has a setting for this as well but I've never looked. The downside to the setting in my BullyDog is I have to do it every time the ignition cycles so I typically only do it on long roadtrips.

resharp001

SOOOOO, driving home from a hockey game last night and all the sudden I have no A/C. This morning I go out to investigate and see if the compressor clutch is kicking on. Nope.....then I notice the complete mess of a/c oil all over my steering box, frame rail, side of my radiator and such. I then see that my a/c line is contacting one of my power steering lines -



Why would I have a clearance issue there? Well, cuz the spot on the Griffin radiator where the a/c line bracket out of the condenser does not line up, so I never worried about it. The lines were stable and I didn't see an issue, until the OBVIOUS issue now.

I knew there was a hole but couldn't see the obvious spot outside of that wear, but it didn't look like any oil was dripping from there. A/C manifold confirmed zero pressure at all in the system. Tried to pull vacuum just to see and couldn't even get past 20 Hg, and when turned the vac pump off it couldn't hold that for even 2 mins. Had to pull the intake to get to the expansion valve side of the lines and then pulled the lines out -



Not the best picture but there is the wear. You can't visually see a hole, but when I ran compressed air through the line with my thumb over the other end, I could both hear and feel air coming out of the line right there.

Another rude awakening is that our a/c system doesn't use traditional o-ring seals. Nope, it uses a washer with a rubber core that seals around the tube ends....and they are like $20 each! To top it off, just about every one of them is different too. There is no seal "kit", just a bunch of individual part numbers.

I also noticed that my low pressure line, which is rubber where it dips down, was contacting one of my hydro steering fittings. Just replacing that as well. Kind of frustrating. I feel, like most my issues, that this was self-inflicted damage. I can't say I'd dog the radiator because of this, but it is definitely something to be aware off.

Junkyard junkie

Hey Resharp001, I'm gonna bring this thread back 'cause I think it fits my current situation. I am looking for a radiator for my JK. I have a Hemi swap and I'm using the stock radiator and fan. Seems like you replaced a good radiator with another good one, are you still using the Griffin, how has it held up?

Thanks.

resharp001

Yes, I still have the Griffin and it's been working just fine. There are only 2 things I'd gripe about, but neither a huge deal. First it didn't have the mount on the lower driver's side corner to secure the transmission cooler lines on the '12+ models. Second, it did not come with a radiator cap, and that was another $20+ cuz you couldn't reuse the factory cap. I do not like the Griffin cap because is it hard to grasp well IMO. My original cap failed and leaked prior to Quadratec's 2yr warranty was up. I contacted them, radio silence. I ended up just buying a new cap elsewhere and have had no issues since then. I don't know what the current prices of radiators are. At the time I bought this the factory rads had increased to the point there was little price difference to get the Griffin. I would not tell you that this is the end-all-be-all, best thing out there you can possibly buy, but it's a quality product. They used to (not sure if they still do) produce a larger capacity one, as did Mishimoto. I will say I think it's a good radiator, and it's my first experience with Griffin. I'd purchase their products again.

J. Dub

@resharp001 Thank you for the updates throughout the years. Interesting your radiator hasn't cracked as has been documented by others that use aluminum rather than plastic like the factory radiator brackets have.
Apparently they crack due to flex.

Did you do a full flush when you replaced your radiator?
Did you stay w/ factory coolant and move to a common coolant that can be found easily at all parts stores.
I have read if you do a full flush then it's possible to move to any coolant you want. I haven't tested this.