IIQII

OK so an update....

I just got done replacing the intake cam on bank 1. Cam, rockers and lifter. Took it for a ~20 drive. No traction control light or CEL. Even the "ECO" is back to working. Smooth running and pickup is not bad at all. No hesitations or anything.

Got a few things I still want to look for, but taking it to work this week will tell me more.

I hope it is all fixed.

I compared the old cam and new cam and the reluctors didn't look that far off.

WOOHOO!!!! (so far hahahahahahahahaaha)

resharp001

I've got my fingers crossed for you!

IIQII

Well Russ, pulling into the parking lot this morning it decided to throw another code . This code has been unseen.

I got a P000C (Bank 2 Cam 1 Position Slow response) which is the intake on Bank 2. That I am figuring is the phaser as I did not replace that and it is on the other bank from the cam I just replaced. I didn't want to just fire all and every part at it. When I replaced the timing set when some were not showing major issue.s I know the oil is clean and the chains, guides an tensioners are sound, that leaves the OCV and phaser. There is a cylinder 6 misfire, but I am figuring that is ancillary to the P000C as it hasn't been seen before either.

When the cam needed to be addressed/replaced, there were a couple misfire codes that I figured were due to the cam on that bank that have now disappeared. I did replace the rockers and lifters on with that new cam for that cam, but the old rockers and lifters were in good shape. The old rocker rollers were all smooth and tight (no play) and there were no collapsed lifters.

So now it looks like I will be going back in on bank 2 to replace the OCV and phaser. The vehicle runs pretty good. Doesn't have any problems no ABS or traction control codes. Pick up, idle and in general is smooth and it went without any codes right up to where I pulled into the lot and threw it in reverse to back into my parking spot. Ehh well, at least it is on the easy side to remove the valve cover. Actually have been enjoying the car work a little. I will give it a little more driving before ordering the parts later in the week.

As a side note to anyone following this thread, the little articulated ratchet that I mentioned earlier in this thread... That has been a tool that was well worth having. Getting to and removing/replacing the PCV valve has been much easier. While I did pull the battery tray and move the fuse box, I never had to remove the inner fender liner. About the only thing that could be a bit bothersome is that it is easy to hit and change the direction switch in some cases. Just thought I would mention that as it may help someone else out.

resharp001

I swear that after i rebuilt my timing, i saw a similar "slow response" code twice, and never again after that. I think I'd want to see that thing coming back repeatedly before I got excited about breaking a VC off again. I get so tired of removing that damn intake. The last time I got in the driver's side, just weeks ago, I thought hard about scrapping that one intake support braket that bolts lower on the side of the block, and which interferes with getting the VC off. ended up leaving it, but that one aggravates me.

IIQII

Hopefully last post on this thread...

For any following, I had left off after having replaced a camshaft in my '12 Rubicon. This followed the replacement of the timing set due to a broken guide on bank 2 (drivers side). The timing was way off. The reluctor/tone wheel was of but not by much at all. The changed camshaft got rid of the codes for a cam/crank alignment error (along with a couple other codes misfires, etc...) on bank 1 (passenger side). The rockers and lifters were changed with the new cam even though the old ones appeared to be in good shape.

Once that cam was replaced a P000C (camshaft 1/bank 2 slow response) code started being thrown. This was new and had not been seen. The wiring had been checked, the OCV actuators checked and were working. The P000C stayed for a while and eventually would trip a misfire and the traction control codes. Thinking this could be a phaser, I went ahead and ordered one and replaced it. Didn't do a thing. The cam position as shown earlier in this post was still bouncing around but with much less frequency. Since the phaser was new, the sensors had been verified to be working along with everything else, that only left one thing... Once again, the reluctor/tone wheel. I ordered another cam (for bank 2 this time). I got around to swapping the camshaft today along with the rockers and lifters. The old rockers and lifter on this cam were in good shape like on the other bank.

Comparing the new cam to the old cam this time there revealed a marked difference. The hole in the reluctor looked to be about 80 degrees off from the new one.

The new cam has been installed. The codes were cleared and the crank/cam relearn performed. I am really happy to be thinking this just may have done it. After a fair amount of driving and data collection the desired/actual position of all cams is excellent. Everything seems to be functioning as it should be. Idle is smooth as is pickup. No traction control issues or dragging. Yes I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best.

Hopefully anyone else chasing similar issues may find some help in all this. I didn't want to fire the parts cannon at it, so it took some time to work though each issue. About the only thing that has driven me crazy is the number of valve cover gaskets I have gone through. It is still cheaper than just buying and replacing everything.

If this works out for the next couple weeks I will figure it is fixed and go on to other things. Have already started considering lift and wheels.

icrashbikes

One of the nagging fears in the back of my head is that I'll get my rig back on the road after years and countless new parts and the only thing left untouched - the engine - will start giving me crap. I appreciate you going through this and documenting it so when it happens to someone else there's a path to follow.