TripleJackInGA

Hey Guys and Gals -

My Jeep came with a soft top only, so if I come across a good deal on a hardtop, I am interested.

Was there in fact a redesign on the hardtop due to the leak issue? Did they add a new clamp to the middle of the front two pieces, or just move the one from the header to there, or what?

How can you tell between a top that was made after the redesign (if there was one), and one that was made before, and would potentially leak?

Thanks!

gpb

There was a change from 2008 to 2009. I've heard it said that the change may have affected late-build 2008 models, but don't know.

2009+ Freedom Panels moved the middle clamp from the seam between the two panels to the front of the driver's panel where it engages the (moved) footmans loop. The rear part of the hard top is unchanged, just the Freedom Panels.

2009 models can accept 2007/2008 Freedom Panels but not necessarily the other way around. I think the front middle clamp on an 09 Freedom Panel might not engage the center footmans loop on 07/08 windshields.

I recommend you use the search function, there's been extensive discussion on this topic with lots of photos.

Widewing

If you have a 2007 or 2008 Freedom top, just about everyone has experienced leaks with water dripping onto the dash above the radio, as well as on the console. Take it to the dealer and their "leak specialist" will work on it, and usually cure that leak... For a few weeks at best.

Being a mechanical engineer, I looked at the design, figured out what the flaws were and came up with a better solution.

The problem is simple: Inadequate seal compression. That's why they elected to clamp to the footman's loop for the 2009 models. However, you can get the same result.

Get your hands on some BUNA N sheet stock (synthetic rubber) in 70 to 90 durometer. You want the material to be at least 0.090" thick, but not greater than 1/8".

Cut a rectangular piece measuring 1" X .75", or reasonably close.

Flip open the forward lock lever (driver side, closest to windshield along the panel overlap). Position the BUNA N shim between the lever and the panel and slowly rotate the lever to the locked position. Make sure the shim is reasonably square.

This shim will apply enough compression to the seal to stop the leak. Since I incorporated this simple fix, not one drop of water has entered at that joint, and that includes some serious frog strangler rains.

I did the same for my friend's JK, with the same result. I keep a small ziplock bag of shims in the center console storage, just in case I lose one.

To assist in sealing, thoroughly clean all seals and treat them with a silicone spray lube, wiping off any excess. Do this on a month by month basis. It's been nearly 8 months now, and the panels are still completely water tight.

I'll shoot some photos if anyone is interested....


My regards,

Widewing

Matador

My dealer is performing the Header TSB and apparantly replacing the latches on my freedom top panels too.....I guess it's part of the TSB.

I complained about the soft top leaking but have not had the hard top leak. They said that they must replace the header with the hard top on.


I will let you guys know what ends up happening.....perhaps they will be installing the latch in the middle?

Dan415

I'm interested I'm about to stick it back on for the winter and I'd like a good solution can you let me see what you did?

Thanks Dan

Widewing

I'll shoot some photos in the daylight tomorrow.

This is such a simple fix..

One thing I forgot to mention.... Apply a tiny amount of grease (one that does not attack plastic) on the shim so that the lever doesn't bind on it when locking. I use something called Crysto-lube, which is used in Oxygen systems and Scuba. It's inert and long lasting.

Have you ever had the panel thumbs screws bind when they bottom into the speaker bar? Apply a thin coating of lube to the threads and on the base of the screw knob. Like magic, you can thread them in with your pinkie. Just be advised that it becomes very easy to over-tighten them now as they turn extremely easy, even under tension.


My regards,

Widewing

JKRINGO

Periodically hitting the Seals with silicone to keep them from drying out is a Must. Especially if your planning on hanging on to it for awhile. An awfull lot of people totally blow this off.

overmanjh

Some where on here I read that when installing the freedom panels, just lay them in place(don't latch them) close both doors, and push up in the center where the two panels meet then latch them into place. Supposedly this makes the seal seat properly against the panel. I haven't had a leak since I started installing this way.

Widewing

Okay Dan, here a couple of photos. Combine these with my description above. So far, this has cured the leak onto the dash and console on every JK that we put shims in. Simple, dirt cheap and effective. Too bad Jeep didn't figure it out for two years...

I show shims of varying thickness. .090" works for my top, but it may vary depending upon the condition of your particular seals. You can stack shims as required.




My regards,

Widewing

Dan415

Hey Thanks a lot for the post... I'll show you my 3/4 inch custom insulation job when I'm finished with it... should cut down on the heat