My jeep is throwing check engine code P0404 and P1404, which points to the EGR valve. So I take my entire battery tray out, unwired everything to finally reach the god damn EGR valve (wish I just took the fender off) and I find it is physically impossible to get the rear 10mm nut off. The only wrench I could fit in there was a 4" long box wrench and leaves no space to fit a breaker bar. I pulled on this little wrench as hard as I possibly could and it got me nowhere. (I like to think im stronger than the average person)

I even dropped my 10mm ratcheting wrench into the abyss and hopefully it falls out on the road somewhere.

So... I started kicking and throwing things. Put the jeep back together and thank god it still works but it was all for nothing.


I REALLY don't want to pay $500 to change something I can easily change if the secret to removing this bolt was given to me. The guys who have done it will know what I am referring to...

For the manual tranny guys it isn't a problem but the auto tranny has the dipstick tube running directly behind the bolt, making it impossible to fit a wrench in there.


Its unreal that one very poorly designed bolt stands between me and $500 that I have no reason to spend. I need help :(



edit: I was thinking of welding a wrench in some strange fashion to wrap around it, but have no clue where to start...

 

This thread has lots of tips for the automatic guys: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...-p0406-127376/

 

I have a 2008 and have the same code on occasion. I will be going through passenger fender because the EGR is directly behind it.

Question: Has anyone ever tried to clean an EGR instead of replacing it? Is it possible?

 

Just 2 days ago the CEL came on on the wifes 07 JKU. Pulled the P0404 code with my scanner. Cleared the code, and the CEL went off. After about 10 min. driving, CEL back on with another P0404 code. Called the dealership. Thank goodness I got the extended warranty from Chrysler, as hers is an auto. It will be covered. Her 07 has 56K miles, and the warranty is good to 65K.

 

It is possible to clean the exhaust passage and the valve head. But it's an awful lot of work to go to if the problem is in an area that can't be cleaned, if the solenoid is bad, or if the position sensor is what's bad.

 

I went through the fender aswell,it just takes time.

Cleaning the EGR then put it back in after spending the time to take it out,not worth it.Make sure to clean the metal tube that runs from the EGR to the intake,our's was nearly plugged with crap

 

Thanks for that thread link.

I tried a ratcheting box wrench and it didn't seem to fit with the area around the head of the nut being pretty tight.

Sadly I also dropped that wrench into the abyss behind the egr valve. I'm hoping it falls out on the road somewhere or I can get it when I finally get this thing off.

I'm gonna try another ratcheting box wrench and if that fails I'm gonna weld a box wrench into some crazy right angle shape and that should do it.

The very miniature 10mm box wrench I tried using before giving up, slipped on the nut twice I PRAY I didn't strip it. It was a 1/16" thick wrench so I doubt it could strip enough surface area on the bolt to matter though, I hope.

 

In the thread about EGR replacement, did you see where moving the transmission dip stick tube gives more clearance around the bolt head?

 

I bent a 10mm wrench to reach the back bolt. Still a pain but worked well. If you bend a ratcheting box wrench it would work better.

 

Good idea. Did you heat wrench and bend in vice?