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driver's power door lock not working

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Old 10-30-2017, 11:59 PM
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Default driver's power door lock not working

Driver's power door lock not working

The driers side power door worked then it began intermittently working. Then it stopped working.
All other power doors work fine with remote. This is the troubleshooting I performed.

1. Did the check on the wire harness to make sure there is a firm connection.
2. Replaced the door regulator with a new one. Also tested it on other side to confirm it works.


Next I need to test the wiring on the harness to make sure it has the correct voltage.
Does anyone know what each wire on this harness is and what voltages should be expected?
Or any other advice to fix this issue would be appreciated.
Thanks
Old 10-31-2017, 05:02 AM
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Do you take your doors off at all? If so, I'd really focus on the wire harness. I had a similar issue with power window. I thought I had confirmed over and over that I had a good connection in the plug, but I eventually discovered that when I'd connect the harness, one of the wires would slide back just enough to create a loose connection, resulting in my window working intermittently. If you replaced the locking actuator in the door, and all other door locks are working properly, and you mess with that harness from time to time, that is what I'd focus on. Not sure what your harness is like on the '08. I hate the harness I have on my '13. They updated em in '14+ to something that is much better IMO.
Old 10-31-2017, 01:49 PM
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The front passenger door lock gradually quit on mine.
It was not a power problem. It is a binding in the internal lock mechanism.
When I lock/unlock it with the button inside, I can hear a slight squeaking inside the door in the area of the latch. It's just enough of a bind to keep it from working electrically.

See if your could be a similar issue.

I hate door work, so I have not gotten into it yet.
Old 01-24-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jetpilot39
Driver's power door lock not working

The driers side power door worked then it began intermittently working. Then it stopped working.
All other power doors work fine with remote. This is the troubleshooting I performed.

1. Did the check on the wire harness to make sure there is a firm connection.
2. Replaced the door regulator with a new one. Also tested it on other side to confirm it works.
Mines tan/light green for unlock, tan/white for lock, violet for door light/ajar and black/white for ground.

Next I need to test the wiring on the harness to make sure it has the correct voltage.
Does anyone know what each wire on this harness is and what voltages should be expected?
Or any other advice to fix this issue would be appreciated.
Thanks
2010 Wrangler Unlimited Sport is tan/light green for unlock, tan/white for lock, violet for door light/ajar and black/white for ground.

I’m having a problem with the driver door not unlocking with FOB, driver and passenger lock button.

I have tested the (tan/l green) wire and no power to plug when I push unlock (FOBs and buttons). I tested the door harness plug (under the dash) too and no power when unlocking. I have checked continuity all the way to the fuse box. Btw...I tested the lock (tan/white) wire and it has power. Is there a module that powers the door locks? Where’s it located if there is one?

Derek
Old 01-24-2019, 07:31 PM
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I’m having a problem with the driver door not unlocking with FOB, driver and passenger lock button.

I have tested the (tan/l green) wire and no power to plug when I push unlock (FOBs and buttons). I tested the door harness plug (under the dash) too and no power when unlocking. I have checked continuity all the way to the fuse box. Btw...I tested the lock (tan/white) wire and it has power. Is there a module that powers the door locks? Where’s it located if there is one?

Does this sound like something rebuilding the TMIP (?) would fix?
Old 01-25-2019, 05:33 AM
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I would start by replacing the door actuator. I've had 2 of them fail on my 2009 JKU with the symptoms you described. Driver's door actuator replaced under warranty, and rear driver side door replaced by myself after warranty expired. The actuator failing has been a known common problem on our JK's. When I looked up the replacement P/N for my rear door, the P/N has had 10 revisions to it compared to my factory actuator....so FCA knows about this problem and seems like they have been working with their supplier to get it fixed. Supplier changes to a part requires the part number to be revised.

Last edited by Rednroll; 01-25-2019 at 05:35 AM.
Old 01-26-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
I would start by replacing the door actuator. I've had 2 of them fail on my 2009 JKU with the symptoms you described. Driver's door actuator replaced under warranty, and rear driver side door replaced by myself after warranty expired. The actuator failing has been a known common problem on our JK's. When I looked up the replacement P/N for my rear door, the P/N has had 10 revisions to it compared to my factory actuator....so FCA knows about this problem and seems like they have been working with their supplier to get it fixed. Supplier changes to a part requires the part number to be revised.
I have (x3) and the reason I think its not actuator is there's no power to tan/L green when I try to unlock and there is to tan/white when I lock. I saw a thread on another forum and they talk about rebuilding the TMIP (fuse box essentially). I'll see if I can get a link to it because it had some very interesting info....thanks for you help!!
Old 01-26-2019, 08:16 AM
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Here it is....

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/e...l#post34155443

Let me know what you think or if it don't work let me know and I'll see if I can get you there some other way....Derek
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Do you take your doors off at all? If so, I'd really focus on the wire harness. I had a similar issue with power window. I thought I had confirmed over and over that I had a good connection in the plug, but I eventually discovered that when I'd connect the harness, one of the wires would slide back just enough to create a loose connection, resulting in my window working intermittently. If you replaced the locking actuator in the door, and all other door locks are working properly, and you mess with that harness from time to time, that is what I'd focus on. Not sure what your harness is like on the '08. I hate the harness I have on my '13. They updated em in '14+ to something that is much better IMO.
I haven't taken off the door before.

One more thing, the windows all used to work and I can't recall a specific point in time when it just stopped working on that one window.

Thanks for the reply!

Last edited by TurnipMasher; 05-10-2019 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Wrong thread...
Old 05-10-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
The front passenger door lock gradually quit on mine.
It was not a power problem. It is a binding in the internal lock mechanism.
When I lock/unlock it with the button inside, I can hear a slight squeaking inside the door in the area of the latch. It's just enough of a bind to keep it from working electrically.

See if your could be a similar issue.

I hate door work, so I have not gotten into it yet.
Thanks for that feedback, I'll be sure to pay attention for any noise next time I'm in the car.

Last edited by TurnipMasher; 05-10-2019 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Wrong thread...



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