Just thinking, has anyone put drilled and slotted brake rotors on there jeep? I f so how do you like them and how are they off road? I have them on my TL acura, and find them to be very good at stopping the car, faster than factory ones.
But would have no idea as to if the would be any good on my 2012 JK unlimited.

Thanks
Mark

 

I was going to put these on my JK because I like the way they look and seem to have more braking power. Catch with putting them on an offroad vehicle though is mud/rocks etc can get stock in the drill holes wearing and taring down your pads. Just something to consider

 

X2 on that unless you want to change your pads all the time and have some kind of a poker to get the rocks out of the holes.

 

slotted or drilled rotors have ZERO impact on stopping distance for a single panic stop. Pads, on the other hand, are what you'd want to change if you want to shorten stopping distance. That said...if you can engage ABS, you have plenty of clamping force and need more grip (i.e. tires).

 

I don't know how true it is or not, but I was told that the drill holes crach from the hole outwards?

 

I will have to agree with PGT. The whole point of a drilled and slotted rotor is to prolong the use of brakes in high temp situations like road track racing. They have absolutely no effect on stopping distance and with how slow we are moving while wheeling, we would most likely not even get the benifit of lower brake temps. A high quality semimetallic pad is the best way to increase stopping power. I have always found my brakes to be great and have had to lock them up a couple of times(abs). I think it would be a waste of money as you would actually reduce the life of your rotors. Most shops will not turn drilled/slotted rotors do to the snagging effect it can have on the brake lathe. This means most of the time you will only get one run on the set of rotors. If you do go this route, try to find a shop that will turn them in your area before you take the plunge. On another note, they tend to warp quickly if you are a heavy braker, and will develop of pulse quickly in this case.

 

not outwards, but yes, the radiate from the holes. One thing to keep in mind here....drilled rotors introduce a weakness. Porsche (and others) don't drill their "cross drilled" rotors...they cast them in place.

failed rotor:

 

The drilling do crack but I feel the slot and drilling will let the mud, water, and dirt out between pads and rotor. We used to cross hatch our dirt bike pads and shoes to let the dirt get out. You will have to clean them after wheeling, I had to clean out my factory rotors after going through mud (the vents were completely filled with mud). Not sure I would go with the drill but the slots are good. I also agree with turning them, you may have to replace them instead of turning them. I also agree with a panic stop... not sure how much gas will build up with a quick stab of the brakes. Just my $.02

 

I bought some reputable dimpled and slotted rotors for a previous car of mine, and for whatever reason they warped up pretty quick. After that, shops told me they couldn't be resurfaced because of the dimples and slots.

I'll probably will never go that route again.

 

I've run these on my '04 F-250 Crew cab with 35's, Helped tremendously, had no issues with warping. Currently running a set on my '04 Excursion which is also on 35's, works great. Quite frankly it costs about 225.00 for a set of rotors and pads. I'm averaging 60K miles plus on a set so for that I'm not worried about having them cut and will just replace them all around.
I just ordered a set for my JK. Yes, at low speeds they won't help much but when stopping a 2 1/2 ton JK on 37 coming down a hill I'll take the performance benefit thank you.
As mentioned by the poster with motorcross bikes, I have all performance sport quads, they all have cross drilled rotors, have never had an issue with rocks getting in the holes. To me the only issue yuo would have is the same with standard rotors, that being a rotor jammed by the caliper. Just my .02.