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Door removal

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Old 06-04-2009, 09:42 PM
  #11  
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T50 to unscrew, but I would say swing the door closer to a full 90 degrees out before lifting up. The hinges will catch and ding if you don't swing out far enough. I also say it is best to roll the window down all the way first so you can approach from the outside, reach through the window and grab the arm rest when lifting.
Old 06-04-2009, 10:06 PM
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x2 on having a good grip as you lift the door off cause once it comes off the hinge, you'll be surprised of the weight.

I like to lift the doors off from the unpainted side. And if I carry it, I put my arm through and rest the top of the door on my shoulder. The door arm rest is up against my hip. But now I just use one of those 4 wheel moving dolly's with a towel on the base to roll the door.
Old 06-05-2009, 12:27 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by rjhoop
vice grips!!!

OUCH!!!!.....................Stick with the #50 Torx....then throw away the bolts as you will be consumed with the fever to just yank the doors off at any given moment!!
Old 06-05-2009, 02:23 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hohokom
... remove the hinge bolt retainer, but does not tell you how to go about this ...
I assume that these are the Torx nuts that attach to the bottom of each hinge pin. Use a T-50 Torx bit on a ratchet with a medium extension (6" is okay). Place one hand to cup the ratchet head so that it can't scratch up your door. After you have the Torx nuts removed, you can store them, but I really recommend never reinstalling them again.

The red slider that holds each wiring harness on can be a bit cranky to make slide. In fact, I don't even slide it back after reinstalling because the connector also has a press-to-release clip molded into it--it's just not that important if it becomes disconnected inadvertently (which has never happened to me) to require both an automatic latching clip (press-to-release) and a safety latch (red clip). This may sound complicated, but the bottom line is once you figure out how to do it, it will not be complicated, but it will probably be stiff and hard to release (but only the first couple times--they loosen up).

After removing the electrical connector and the safety strap from its hook (be careful--there's nothing to stop the door from swinging all the way forward, possibly crunching sheet metal), stow the strap and connector in the door pocket (to keep you from stepping on it--front doors only), open the window, then reach through and grab the inside door handle to hold it up. The door weight will be pressing against your pant leg, so it's a good idea to remove things from your pockets that might scratch up the doors (such as keys).

Open the door ninety degrees and lift it up and away from the vehicle. Here are a couple pictures of how you should be holding it. Note that rear doors are significantly lighter than fronts, so you may want to start there first (if you have):



Old 06-05-2009, 02:27 AM
  #15  
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Anyone running motorcycle doors on there jk
Old 06-05-2009, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidgogiants
Anyone running motorcycle doors on there jk


no, but i do carry dehydrated water along just in case of an emergency.
Old 06-11-2009, 09:12 AM
  #17  
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I put a few strips of electrical tape across the head of the ratchet in case it bangs against the door when getting the bolts off. No scratches Then, with a soft top, just unscrew the two bolts holding the plastic door sills in place on each side, pop them off, screw the bolts back in so you don't lose them, and fold them up. Looks better when those are off too.

I always re-install the bolts when they go back on. If someone's gonna take off with my doors, they at least need to be prepared.
Old 06-11-2009, 02:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Davidgogiants
Anyone running motorcycle doors on there jk
I guess you mean motorcycle mirrors. I have Harley mirrors on mine when the doors are off. Plain, long stem ones. They sell new for about $18 bucks, but you can find them used for nothing. Shot mine with some Duplicolor bedliner. The one on the passenger side is basically worthless.
Old 06-11-2009, 05:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
The red slider that holds each wiring harness on can be a bit cranky to make slide. In fact, I don't even slide it back after reinstalling because the connector also has a press-to-release clip molded into it--it's just not that important if it becomes disconnected inadvertently (which has never happened to me) to require both an automatic latching clip (press-to-release) and a safety latch (red clip). This may sound complicated, but the bottom line is once you figure out how to do it, it will not be complicated, but it will probably be stiff and hard to release (but only the first couple times--they loosen up).
...or you simply bust the tabs off. Then it's just a nice, easy, snug fit.

As for mirrors, NAPA Auto Parts has a wide selection of mirrors way cheaper than the ones found in 4x4 parts stores. You can bolt them to the chassis hinge mounts. I mount the passenger one on the lower mount as it gives me a nice view of obstacles at the passenger rear.
Old 06-11-2009, 06:41 PM
  #20  
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make sure that if you are wearing jeans that the "rivets" near your front pockets are covered, or you will "add some character" to your doors . Also watch out for pocket knives with clips, cell phones etc.

I carried mine with the "inside" of the door against my body, with the door resting on my shoulder, and my arm at a 90 degree angle to help balance / support the weight.

If you fold a towel and place it on your shoulder before the door it makes it much more comfy. I have to carry mine up 4 flights of stairs every time I take them off... but its totally worth it!


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