hendu3270

Hey guys, a little background on this. I have a 2007 Jeep JK (3.8). I've had a misfire in cyl. 5 off and on for a few months and have pulled two different plugs out of that location that had the electrode insulator cracked. Swapping the plug seemed to fix the mis for awhile each time but it would just come back. Swapped out wires (mainly because I accidently pulled a boot apart on one) and replaced the coil. Tested spark on old coil and it had spark throughout but figured maybe it was having intermitten issues so I wanted to rule it out. Misfire remained off and on (this is not really a misfire thread), so I started thinking maybe that injector was sticking, which from what I understand, could possibly cause detonation in the cylinder? Possibly causing the issue with the plug. Nooowww, I also had a small coolant leak at the passenger side front of the intake manifold where it met the head. Annnddd an oil leak on passenger side valve cover annnnddd an oil leak on my upper oil pan. So, I figured it was time to go ahead and tackle the various gaskets that needed replacing and since it would be torn down to the intake gasket and I would have the injectors out, I'd clean them while I was at it. Started with the oil pan gasket and we ended up misreading the torque spec and broke a bolt. I'm sure most of you know exactly how I misread that spec. Anyways, the bolt that broke was the rear corner up next to the tranny. We tried but were unable to extract that bolt at the time. the extractor fell a couple of times into the space in the transmission behind the thin plate and I also just couldn't get a grip on the extractor to turn it. We were able to remove the extractor from behind the plate and out of the transmission and I just figured we'll have to see if it leaks when we get done with everything and deal with it then. All other bolts were torqued to the correct spec and we moved up top. Went through and replaced all the gaskets mentioned earlier, We rigged up a little device with a 9 volt battery and hose to clean out the injectors. They were all dirty and got nice patterns from each one once clean and we replaced all 12 O-rings.. Got everything back together and torqued up to specs, and cranked her up. Idled great! Very smooth! Went back to feel the exhaust just to see if I could feel a slight pop pop pop, like before when it had the misfire and nothing. All smooth. I did notice there was a slight white smoke coming from the exhaust but wasn't enough to last more than a couple of feet from pipe (dissipated rather quickly and was not really that noticable). Drove it around the neighborhood and probably put less than 5 miles on it. Came back and noticed I would have to deal with the broken bolt because it was leaking at that spot. At that point I was planning to talk to a couple of shops last week and see what they might charge to get that broken bolt out. Before I went to a shop though, I had the idea to get a 1/4' square steel rod, drill a hole in the end, and weld the extractor into it. Then weld a small square piece of scrap to the other end to push on and give it another shot myself removing the bolt. We bought another gasket since I figured I probably crushed the first one, and drained the oil, pulled the pan, and were able to get that bolt out since the square rod was now well below the transmission and had plenty of room to turn and back it out. Alllll of this to say, when we drained the oil (that had less than five miles on it) it was a milky brown coloration. See pic below. I didn't have this issue before I did the work stated above, so part of me is thinking it must be associated with something I replaced. There was no issues with the intake gasket. Put beads of RTV sealant where was required and torqued everything to spec. I have a hard time believing that I now have a blown head gasket that would be allowing coolant to get into the oil. If I had a blown head gasket that was allowing this, I'm assuming I would have some other things going on that would have been evident upon startup? no? Also, a blown head gasket would have been evident when we drained the oil a couple of weeks ago at first but that oil (which had maybe 2500 miles was fine). It was dirty, but it was black and not milky. I'm wondering if there is some issue with an injector that is letting fuel drain into a cylinder and into the oil (although I smell no fuel in that oil). After driving it for that 5 miles, It sat for a week before we dealt with the broken bolt, so the fuel system would have been pressured up still. Anyways, I was planning to test the injectors for leakage before installing the fuel rail, but the kit I had would not make a decent seal when I plugged it into the female end of the fuel line. Seemed like the male end wasn't quite long enough to bottom out and seal (get your mind out of the gutter guys), and I wasn't able to test to make sure they weren't leaking. But again, I smell no fuel in oil. Not looking forward to tearing down into it a second time to replace head gaskets but maybe that's what needs to happen. I did notice the valve cover gaskets were so hard in some areas that they were just brittle pieces of plastic that crumbled (not plyable at all). Not sure if head gaskets could be just as compromised. Any thoughts or insight on what you guys think would be appreciated, I'm stumped on this.

hendu3270

I know that post was alot to read. Sorry for its length. Another thing now, is the oil in that drain pan, after 4 days was jet black. No film or brownish coloration at all. Seems like coolant would still be sitting on top and look the same. Another odd thing is the Jeep has absolutely no oil in it (oil pan has been off for a week now) but is still soaking a new piece of cardboard each day with something.

Sixty4x4

Milky oil most times is made by coolant in the oil. Have you done a compression test or looked into the cooling system to see if coolant is disappearing?