Clutch not disengaging please Help??
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Clutch not disengaging please Help??
I have a 2007 jeep jk and im having problems with my clutch not disengaging first the problem was with the pilot bearing i changed it and changed the clutch with a centerforce dual friction and changed the release bearing and was fine for a year or less now i can't disengage the clutch i tried bleeding the slave cylinder no air bubbles came out so i changed it since i did buy one a while ago and still having the same problem i tried to look for leaks no leaks and the master cylinder is not leaking internally cause i did block the line going to the slave cylinder and tried pressing the pedal it was rock solid still can't figure out what the problem is but there is sound coming out from the area where the slave is when i press on the clutch please help
#3
JK Junkie
I have a 2007 jeep jk and im having problems with my clutch not disengaging first the problem was with the pilot bearing i changed it and changed the clutch with a centerforce dual friction and changed the release bearing and was fine for a year or less now i can't disengage the clutch i tried bleeding the slave cylinder no air bubbles came out so i changed it since i did buy one a while ago and still having the same problem i tried to look for leaks no leaks and the master cylinder is not leaking internally cause i did block the line going to the slave cylinder and tried pressing the pedal it was rock solid still can't figure out what the problem is but there is sound coming out from the area where the slave is when i press on the clutch please help
The noise and the clutch not disengaging may or may not be related, but if you're confident that the slave is working the only option it to pull the transmission and troubleshoot from there.
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
When pressing the clutch, does it feel any different -- less pedal pressure? The squeak/creak sound in the video could be the pressure plate, but it could be the ball/socket on the end of the slave cylinder push rod, see this write-up on the slave. For reference here's some notes from when I replaced the clutch in my '08.
The noise and the clutch not disengaging may or may not be related, but if you're confident that the slave is working the only option it to pull the transmission and troubleshoot from there.
The noise and the clutch not disengaging may or may not be related, but if you're confident that the slave is working the only option it to pull the transmission and troubleshoot from there.
Last edited by G.A.H; 03-05-2019 at 07:18 AM.
#5
JK Junkie
Maybe try bleeding again since it worked last time to expel some bubbles. It should be impossible for air to get in once it's assembled, so maybe it's just a matter of temperature and pressure affecting the small amount of air left in the system -- And getting that air out.
One of the methods I've used is to attach clear tubing to the bleeder and tilt the slave so the bleeder is the high point, then use a hand-held vacuum pump with a trap attachment in the tubing that separates and collects the liquid. The pump and trap attachment are usually part of a set for testing vacuum operated devices and bleeding brakes -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073LMMJ4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One of the methods I've used is to attach clear tubing to the bleeder and tilt the slave so the bleeder is the high point, then use a hand-held vacuum pump with a trap attachment in the tubing that separates and collects the liquid. The pump and trap attachment are usually part of a set for testing vacuum operated devices and bleeding brakes -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073LMMJ4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by Mr.T; 03-05-2019 at 12:10 PM.
#6
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Maybe try bleeding again since it worked last time to expel some bubbles. It should be impossible for air to get in once it's assembled, so maybe it's just a matter of temperature and pressure affecting the small amount of air left in the system -- And getting that air out.
One of the methods I've used is to attach clear tubing to the bleeder and tilt the slave so the bleeder is the high point, then use a hand-held vacuum pump with a trap attachment in the tubing that separates and collects the liquid. The pump and trap attachment are usually part of a set for testing vacuum operated devices and bleeding brakes -- Here's a link showing what this hand operated vacuum pump looks like
One of the methods I've used is to attach clear tubing to the bleeder and tilt the slave so the bleeder is the high point, then use a hand-held vacuum pump with a trap attachment in the tubing that separates and collects the liquid. The pump and trap attachment are usually part of a set for testing vacuum operated devices and bleeding brakes -- Here's a link showing what this hand operated vacuum pump looks like
#7
JK Junkie
Now after thinking about it a little more you're 100%right i never thought about temperature cause the problem alway gets worse when the car is at operating temp i would definitely bleed the system again and try your method after I'm done with exams this week you're awsome thankyou alot