Ball joint replacement quote
11-01-2012, 11:30 PM
#21
JK Newbie
Join Date: May 2012
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I got my jku less then 6 months ago i already changed (not because I want to) the clutch the, tie rod ends, and im about to change the ball joints, the rotors, throw some new pads... tcase fluid, front diff and rear diff fluid (not because i want to ) !! and if im gunna have some money left ill go and treat myself at McDonald's 
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11-02-2012, 08:03 AM
#22
JK Freak
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Pickle forks and pry bars are fun and all if you like working hard but 3 or 4 hard (don't be shy) whacks with a 2 pound hammer on the end or side of the C, upper and lower, where the joints are and that knuckle will drop right out. Leave the nuts on the bottom of the ball joints on a few threads to keep it from hitting the floor. Same trick works for TREs.
Besides, hammering on the pitman arm doesn't make me feel good about the steering gear.
11-02-2012, 08:06 AM
#23
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LOL. Those videos are very misleading. Yes, they show you what you need to do (except you don't need to remove the axle nut), but what they don't show you is how freaking hard everything is going to come out. That guy in the video probably disassembled and reassembled everything just prior to making that video. But who knows, maybe in Florida stuff does come out that easy.
12-03-2012, 05:31 AM
#25
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So if i were to getthis done at a shop how much would i be looking at for some good ball joints+labor
And then if I do it my self how much would i be looking at?
And then if I do it my self how much would i be looking at?
12-03-2012, 08:17 AM
#26
JK Super Freak
I just installed some Moogs this past weekend. My experience is written here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-t...eekend-256038/
My ball joints pressed in and out quite easy. Like video-easy. The knuckles dropped pretty easy too. No need for heat or a pickle fork on my end. But did have them on standby.
I left the drag link and steering arms all attached to the knuckles too, for what it's worth.
My ball joints pressed in and out quite easy. Like video-easy. The knuckles dropped pretty easy too. No need for heat or a pickle fork on my end. But did have them on standby.
I left the drag link and steering arms all attached to the knuckles too, for what it's worth.
12-03-2012, 08:19 AM
#27
JK Super Freak
I'm not sure about a shop price, but if you DIY - the price of the ball joints and any tools you may need. If you can rent the ball joint press - you'll save even more.
For myself, I spent around $260 and 8 hours of time - but still have a boatload tied up in tools I did not use and tools I rented.
12-03-2012, 09:37 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by TheTerminator
If someone has done it before on a JK, then it would be *easier*. If someone is doing it the 1st time, it's a hard install because:
1) Very hard to take things apart:
- hub bolt heads are rusted, hard to fit a socket on them
- the hub won't seperate from the steering knuckle, gotta use some tricks to make it come off
- the steering knuckle will be a pain to seperate from the C's, even after hammering with a pickle fork, still have to use the hell out of a 36" pry bar
2) Now comes the fun part, pressing out the old ball joints!
- the *ucker won't budge a 1/1000000 of an inch, and you realize your current breaker bar is too short. Take a bus to the nearest store and pick up a 36" breaker bar and a blow torch
- finally with a 36" breaker bar this as*hole ball joint excerpts a strong fart, but then by the time it's out, you realize your c-press is bent. Great!
3) Pressing in new ball joints
- the press is bent, but you somehow manage to press in the lower ball joint. Not so on the upper ball joint. It won't go in straight, and after 3+ hours of fiddling with it, you finally decide to take another bus to the nearest store to get a new ball joint press.
- finally with the new press and some effort, you're able to press in the upper ball joint. Great, now move on to the other side!
This definitely wasn't easy. Having the right tools will make it easier, however. So if someone wants to do it themselves, make sure you have a blow torch, a 36" breaker bar, a 36" pry bar or a proper ball joint seperator (much better option), have 2 presses in case 1 gets bent, get some random pipes and spacers as the normal 4wd ball joint press kit won't have everything you need... or simply by the extra adapter set for the ball joint press (the best option, but also priciest). The most important piece from that set would be the angled adapter. And get a 2nd set of hands. Even if you won't have to use them, they can give you some moral support and encouragement.
12-03-2012, 04:22 PM
#30
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Can't believe some of these prices for installation. The shop I work at is 75 an hour and we typically charge about 450 (including alignment) to install new ball joints in JK's, regardless of them being Moog or Synergy.