Any other "07"s need piston rings
#101
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Well for what it's worth I'll tell you that mine comes up a little over the hump on my dipstick when I change it. Letting it drain on a level surface until nothing is dripping, putting on a new filter and putting in 6 qts.
Lots of folks on here have had dipsticks that give strange readings. Some read right at the safe mark with 6, some read well over with 6. When I change mine it is still on the hump, I would say that you have issues. (Of course you knew that anyway.) Did you let them see where the level was on the dipstick after they filled it?
Lots of folks on here have had dipsticks that give strange readings. Some read right at the safe mark with 6, some read well over with 6. When I change mine it is still on the hump, I would say that you have issues. (Of course you knew that anyway.) Did you let them see where the level was on the dipstick after they filled it?
#102
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Any chance you can look at the engine number? It is on the back of the engine, on the block, just under the joint where the head meets the block, driver's side.
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
#103
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Well for what it's worth I'll tell you that mine comes up a little over the hump on my dipstick when I change it. Letting it drain on a level surface until nothing is dripping, putting on a new filter and putting in 6 qts.Lots of folks on here have had dipsticks that give strange readings. Some read right at the safe mark with 6, some read well over with 6. When I change mine it is still on the hump, I would say that you have issues. (Of course you knew that anyway.) Did you let them see where the level was on the dipstick after they filled it?
#104
If they "over fill" the engine, just make sure you see it before you leave the dealer. When you come back in remind them you are comparing the level to the starting point not the top of the hatch mark.
I started a consumption test on mine because i was about 5 quarts low on my previous oil change. Went back in last week for a check at 500 miles and it is already 3/4 a quart low... ridiculous! They said they couldn't document my visit because it is not at a 1000 mile interval per the "book"? Im going back this week for my 1000 mile check. I will let you know what they say.
This forum helps alot thanks for all the posts about this issue that Chrysler should recognize and fix for all of its customers.
#105
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Any chance you can look at the engine number? It is on the back of the engine, on the block, just under the joint where the head meets the block, driver's side.
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
But I have figured out the second character is indeed a T.
#106
JK Jedi Master
I wish more people with oil consumption problems would do this so we could get an idea if the assembly plant plays a role.
#107
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I'll check my engine code tomorrow.
There is something really off about these engines. My brother in law went through the same situation with being 5 quarts down at his last oil change. 40,000 miles on his and it's never been off road.
There is something really off about these engines. My brother in law went through the same situation with being 5 quarts down at his last oil change. 40,000 miles on his and it's never been off road.
#108
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Yeah, as soon as I read your post, I knew I had time to shovel 250' of driveway, do some grocery shopping, cook supper, eat it, do the dishes, and get back to the computer.
I wish more people with oil consumption problems would do this so we could get an idea if the assembly plant plays a role.
I wish more people with oil consumption problems would do this so we could get an idea if the assembly plant plays a role.
#109
None of these Jeeps smoke at all??..I find it pretty weird that so many people are having problems but only notice it when they check their dipsticks, for sure someone would see smoke at takeoff beings it's the rings?
#110
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Mine smokes when I take it above 4000 rpms almost all the time so I think that counts as one
Last edited by racin444; 01-04-2011 at 01:23 PM. Reason: wrong number