Any other "07"s need piston rings
12-25-2010, 03:57 PM
#91
Which once again begs the question...how can they get away with it? Especially if my engine blows up 1 mile out of warranty after coming to them for help at least three times while in warranty?
Should I go again and when they turn me away, demand something in writing that says I went there and they told me to get lost?
Should I go again and when they turn me away, demand something in writing that says I went there and they told me to get lost?
12-25-2010, 03:58 PM
#92
JK Jedi Master
Agreed.
JK has a 6 quart sump. So if a JK using 1 quart per 1000miles is left alone between oil changes, then only one quart will be left in the sump at the scheduled 5000mile oil change. This is below the amount of oil required to feed the oil pump on even a slight incline/decline leading to starving of the oil pump and loss of oil pressure leading to catastrophic failure of bearings & other components (read: piston with con rod attached exiting the engine block at 5000RPM). So by following Chrysler's recommendations you will destroy the motor.
Where I am (Australia) the service interval is 12,000KM (7450miles) and Chrysler still says here that the 1 quart per 1000miles is acceptable, so you would run the sump completely bone dry and seize the motor solid well before the scheduled oil change is due.
JK has a 6 quart sump. So if a JK using 1 quart per 1000miles is left alone between oil changes, then only one quart will be left in the sump at the scheduled 5000mile oil change. This is below the amount of oil required to feed the oil pump on even a slight incline/decline leading to starving of the oil pump and loss of oil pressure leading to catastrophic failure of bearings & other components (read: piston with con rod attached exiting the engine block at 5000RPM). So by following Chrysler's recommendations you will destroy the motor.
Where I am (Australia) the service interval is 12,000KM (7450miles) and Chrysler still says here that the 1 quart per 1000miles is acceptable, so you would run the sump completely bone dry and seize the motor solid well before the scheduled oil change is due.
12-25-2010, 04:04 PM
#93
But it's not just running out of oil. If that were the only problem, I wouldn't care too much. All that oil is going somewhere and doing harm to something. Build up, etc.
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
12-25-2010, 04:09 PM
#94
JK Jedi Master
But it's not just running out of oil. If that were the only problem, I wouldn't care too much. All that oil is going somewhere and doing harm to something. Build up, etc.
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
Do a Google search for excessive oil consumption. Click on the web sites that deal with troubleshooting oil consumption.
Amsoil has a long list of things to look at on their tech site.
It could be as simple as replacing the PCV valve, or as complicated as new rings, pistons, and bearings.
12-25-2010, 05:47 PM
#95
JK Super Freak
But it's not just running out of oil. If that were the only problem, I wouldn't care too much. All that oil is going somewhere and doing harm to something. Build up, etc.
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
THAT should be enough of a reason to do something about it.
Or am I wrong? Is all that oil consumption not actually causing any harm?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...on-rings/page6
Last edited by JKlad; 12-25-2010 at 05:49 PM.
01-03-2011, 09:48 AM
#96
JK Freak
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Do you guys think I burned 1 quart in 1000 miles?
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
01-03-2011, 09:53 AM
#97
JK Jedi Master
Do you guys think I burned 1 quart in 1000 miles?
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
That represents one quart.
The dealers seem to fudge the starting point in their favor.
01-03-2011, 10:06 AM
#98
Do you guys think I burned 1 quart in 1000 miles?
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
The dealership filled it above the hump on the dipstick where the line on the right is when they started the oil consumption test. Now it is half way between the cross hatch after 1000 miles. Thats almost an inch of oil level on the dipstick
Lots of folks on here have had dipsticks that give strange readings. Some read right at the safe mark with 6, some read well over with 6. When I change mine it is still on the hump, I would say that you have issues. (Of course you knew that anyway.) Did you let them see where the level was on the dipstick after they filled it?
Last edited by benny; 01-03-2011 at 10:09 AM.
01-03-2011, 10:07 AM
#99
JK Freak
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01-03-2011, 10:16 AM
#100
JK Jedi Master
Any chance you can look at the engine number? It is on the back of the engine, on the block, just under the joint where the head meets the block, driver's side.
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
The number has the plant of origin. You will have to reach in and clean it with a rag, then look at it with a mirror, so you would have to take into consideration it will all be backwards.
Edit to add:
The engine number is located on the rear of the block, just below the cylinder head, on the drivers side. There will be two sets of numbers. The first set is the engine number, the second set nearby is the last 8 digits of your VIN.
The second character in the engine number represents the manufacturing plant.
S = Saltillo
T = Trenton
Last edited by ronjenx; 01-03-2011 at 10:21 AM.