Muddy_Rubicon

Does anyone besides mopar sell rotors for the JK? I know Raybestos sells pads, and i believe monroe does as well. I checked on monroe but they don't yet, anyone know?

Lorrel

There's a few aftermarket rotors and pads, and the price varries:
TriNet Brake Systems has drilled, slotted, and drilled and slotted rotors at about $260 per set (front and rear)
R1 Concepts has 2 styles of drilled and slotted rotors. One at $147 a set and the other an e-coated drilled and slotted at $205 a set.
SP Performance has different styles of cross drilled, diamond drilled and drilled and slotted rotors from $179 to $380 per set.
Don't know about the reputation of any, as I've never ordered from any.

tricked919

I did a write-up on this - don't remember if its this forum or the other one... drilled/slotted rotors on a Jeep are a waste. Those are made for braking endurance; consistant ultra-high intensity heat. I raced 350Z's and we did ton's of track studies on various brake set ups. The diversity in results between them only gapped after many long and VERY fast runs around the track. The bulk of the JK's braking performance limits will be when wheeling, and you're never going fast enough to build up heat that can't disapate fast enough. They're fighting gravity at a slow pace, that's about it.

If you're not pleased with brake perfomence, get a set of SS lines. They are BY FAR, the least expensive, permanent, and most noticeable brake upgrade you will ever make. Unless you're taking your JK to the track and flogging it, don't waste your time on rotors or big caliper kit.

If you are just looking to replace your stock rotors because they're worn out (or warped beyond grinding thickness), get a set of kryo-treated rotors. Some places will take rotors you buy and kryo treat them for you.

...going back to the drilled/slotted rotors... unless you are getting really good rotors (Brembo, Stoptech, etc) you need to be really careful. They are known for cracking easily. That's a high stress part and drilling it out can easily compromise integrity if not done right. Good companies study the best spots to drill/slot. We'd see lots of guys run ebay rotors and crack them. Then you have a REAL big issue.

JCKnauer22

i'm a bit curious myself as to why you would want them. i love the braking performance of my 2dr rubi. maybe it's because i haven't done any mods that increase weight or tire size. or maybe it's just because i'm used to my dodge i used to have that needed about a runway's length to come to a complete stop from highway speed. regardless, i've had no problems or anything bad to say about the brakes on my jeep. i love em

spbambam

AC Delco #18a2464, Raybestos # 780518, Centrics # 120.67068.

Muddy_Rubicon

Perfect, thanks!

kafka1983

I hate to go off vehicle topic, but my 2006 BMW M6 has run through two sets of factory rotors due to uneven wearing (they begin to vibrate when I brake after a couple of thousand miles). The third set started vibrating the other day. I don't hit the brakes hard typically, but it happens from time to time in that car living in Boston. I'm tired of having the dealership replace them. Who makes the absolute best rotors (price no object - well, ALMOST no object).

P.S. I just bought an '09 Rubi 4dr and it's a great vehicle to have in the garage alongside the M6.

Lorrel

I would agree with you on this for a JK in stock form, and although this post is on the stock section, many post on this section that have other than a stock JK.
For example installing larger tires and aftermarket bumpers, both of which increase weight, and thereby adding stress to the brakes when stopping would cause more heat in both rotors and pads. I do agree that under normal situations the braking system on the JK is, IMO, a very good system, and there should be no need for specialty rotors. On the other hand, having replaced the 28" tires on my XJ with 33's, and adding aftermarket bumpers, a winch, and underside armor, increased the weight of the vehicle to the point that the brakes were no longer as good in stopping power, even after installing SS lines. In my case I found replacing the stock rotors with slotted and cross drilled, increased the stopping power, during highway driving. Granted, having slotted rotors does increase the chance of picking up small stones which could wreck havic with the pads, but this has never happened to me while off road, and perhaps I've been lucky there.
I will agree with your statement that "The bulk of the JK's braking performance limits will be when wheeling, and you're never going fast enough to build up heat that can't disapate fast enough", however that would be during wheeling, and many JK's except for minor off road trails, see nothing more than highway driving, during which some are loaded down with camping equipment and towing small trailers or boats, driving highway speeds+, with road temperatures in excess of 100 degrees.
I don't see how slotted, drilled, or cross drilled and slotted rotors cannot do anything but better the braking system while driving on the highway for extended periods of time, especially if one has increased the tire size, and added weight to the vehicle.
Cryogenically treated rotors will last longer and provide less chances of warpage, and are an option, however treated rotors are more tuned to the racing circuits, where they become more cost effective over replacing high$$$ rotors.



By all means, "buyer bewear". Whenever choosing aftermarket components, make sure you are getting something that is worh buying in the first place, and always use a reputable dealer.

09rubicon

Interesting discussion. Consider this. Slotted/drilled rotors are designed specificaly to vent heat/gasses quickly. When racing or in an extremly high use/abuse enviroment they serve there purpouse (i use them on my 4banger for track days, dont ask the make/model its embarasing, but it does go fast). The counter argument to that though is that your braking efficiency is generated by friction i.e the area of the rotor swept by the pads under pressure, by drilling/slotting you are reducing the "swept area" by a mesurable margin. You will almost always be better served by using a solid or ribbed factory style rotor. If you find your modification are taxing your stock brake system then you need to look into a form of big brake kit, something that will give you a larger rotor and pad allowing for a greater swept area. When I put 44's on my last bronco it barley stopped under neihborhood driving conditions, I ended up installing a set of disc brakes off an F350 designed for the heavy loads and it was much better than any drilled/vented rotor i could have ever gotten...and safer.

rock342

Just found this thread and it's fantastic info. My friend has a 4 door JK with same 35 tires and his brakes are MUCH better than mine - now I know why. He did install the steel brake lines...now I'm going to order them!!
It never occured to me that they might be the difference in brake pedal feel.