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2015 JK sill leaking oil after cooler/filter replacement
Stock JK TechBulletin board forum regarding issues with OE (original equipment) components of the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) such as factory suspension parts, engine, transmission, body parts, interior fixtures and the on-board computer.
Forgot to mention I have an overheating issue as well along with the coolant leak.
Originally Posted by Ricktor JKU
Seems to be leaking from transmission vents right near the oil pan plug. But also some smaller spots in other areas up toward the driver side of the undercarriage there seems to be some possible damage to some hoses but unsure. I just replace the oil coolant cooler filter housing with the aluminum dormant one. Here are my specs from J scan at idle do any of these oxygen sensors or evap readings seem really off and can anyone diagnose the issue just from looking at these or guide me and what direction I should be looking at based off of what these reading show????
These are sitting at idle parked after driving for about 1 hour or so. Anyone that can view these specs and readings and guide me in the direction that I should be looking at will be greatly appreciated thinking that I might have messed something up with the oil filter housing and need to put new gaskets on the upper and lower intake manifold but could be a blown gasket or seal. Not sure
For a while everyday I when I start driving I would start overheating with the AC on after about 20 minutes of driving and the car would start overheating to the point where I get to about 3/4 of the way and I would turn the AC off and slow down the driving and just kind of cruise and highway mood almost. That seemed to help but the excessive cool loss is extreme because I'll lose my entire overflow tank of coolant in half of a day of driving and have to carry around bottles of coolant in my car just to make sure I'm not overheating throughout the day
Well, digging this thread back up cuz guess who thinks they have an oil leak coming out the back of the valley. Jeesh. I have a messy transmission on both sides and it is definitely not coming from valve covers I recently had off. I am strongly considering converting to the Dorman aluminum and thought I recalled an issue here or there which is what lead me back to this thread. I think I might take my chances but dang it seems like a gamble regardless of what route you take.
At the time I bought a cheap version due to limited supply during the covid mess. Once I got my 230k miles oil cooler off I noticed it was just leaking at the O ring seals. So I cleaned it up got new seals and when that cheap one breaks I will put that old one back on. I could pull that intake down to the filter in minutes so that is not a major issue. Only messy part is draining the coolant and watching not to spill any into the engine when you disconnect the coolant hoses at the oil cooler.
Y, I suspect the o-rings primarily. It seems that to be the case for a lot of folks. If it weren't for the fact that I have a '13 with the pre-redesigned oil bypass that they changed in '14, I'd likely just move forward with the idea of replacing the o-rings and gaskets, but for $160 I'm thinking that upgrading to the aluminum housing AND the newer design is a better idea. I have had that stupid little bypass break on me before and that can be a big potential problem when it happens.....which is only a matter of time with heat considering the thin plastic it's made out of. I've at least ordered it to have on hand just in case. Think I'll rip this apart on Sunday and take a look at things.
Y, I suspect the o-rings primarily. It seems that to be the case for a lot of folks. If it weren't for the fact that I have a '13 with the pre-redesigned oil bypass that they changed in '14, I'd likely just move forward with the idea of replacing the o-rings and gaskets, but for $160 I'm thinking that upgrading to the aluminum housing AND the newer design is a better idea. I have had that stupid little bypass break on me before and that can be a big potential problem when it happens.....which is only a matter of time with heat considering the thin plastic it's made out of. I've at least ordered it to have on hand just in case. Think I'll rip this apart on Sunday and take a look at things.
in my case it was definitely the o rings that was the cause. The filter housing failed shortly after. It seems ill be getting 4 years out of the o rings and maybe 6 years out of the housing. The dorman might solve the housing issue but not the o rings. I do recall a few people trying the dorman unit that also leaked, hence the o ring failure.
I got that replaced and buttoned back up. I still have my old unit sitting in the garage waiting to be inspected to see if I can find anything questionable. Maybe I'll do that tonight. I need to throw my front DS back in anyhow so will be out there. Based on where most the dirt and oil appears to be, my first inclination would be to think the first o-ring behind the filter and between the cooler and housing portions moreso than the o-rings between the block and the assembly.
I replaced mine….. originally was just a circuit malfunction, then had a leak with the new aluminum housing. Or so I thought… turns out a o ring in the middle fuel rail got clipped or something causing it to splits and have a waterfall leak down the valley/back of the manifold. I’ve also seen old gaskets/prints accidentally left behind causing a leak or debris/broken wiring harness bits left behind preventing a seal. Also double check your torq/pattern . I bought the dye and never even used it, figured a good cleaning was due either way.
08-23-2022, 08:07 PM
Forgot to mention I have an overheating issue as well along with the coolant leak.
